Ron Lawson
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Posts posted by Ron Lawson
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I made no progress on the roller today as I had a 150 mile round trip to pick up a SUV for my nephew and the I picked up a 135 Massey Fergy tractor equipt with a post hole auger I have 7 6inch polls to stand up with about 12 feet out of the ground It is not an urgent job and I want to see some more rain to make the sand wetter so I wont have cave ins Hopefully I will complete the roller tomorrow and give it a trial run with some half inch steel conduit Keep your eyes on here for some pictures Doug I will get the skinny bloke to operate the steering wheel
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4 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
Matt, didn't the blueprint call for a fatman wheel? Just sayin'.
Just because I am 5 feet high and 4 feet across there is no need to be cheeky
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They are repairable If your "body man" can cut and join two different panels he should be able to repair them
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Hi John, How thick is that strap From the way it looks in the photo it is thinner on the edges than in the middle I am needing some 1 1/4 wide by 1/4 high The top is rounded
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That RHS one would have been a tricky little bugger to make mate On mine there is a short piece of tube About half inch long that is spot welded on the holes at the sump side so that the pan clears the rest of the sump bolts does yours have them ?
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Hey Matt If I send my side plate over can you put some of that shining silver stuff on it ha ha
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5 hours ago, stakeside said:
I forgot if this is a six . Meyers has brass replacement for a DA6.
It was hard to see your fabrication. Be sure to offset face of jacket about 1/4” from side of engine to assure water flow around the cylinders.
I placed thin copper washers. They were used originally.
The DA 6 side plates are completely different to the Seniors If I could buy one I would have This one being in Brass and Copper will out last me and the car
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8 hours ago, gundog99 said:
I am also concerned about leaks around the screw holes and a possible corrosion issue mixing Brass with steel. I can see how you made the intersection but how was the outer section made? A flat plate indeed ! it never ceases to amaze me how many people fail to consider why a part was designed a certain way in the first place.
I folded a piece of copper then cut it out for the ends ,bent them down into shape then silver soldered them together
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19 hours ago, stakeside said:
The retainer is cast iron and because of vibrations in trans I believe welding would not be durable enough. Would not want piece to come apart and damage trans.
It would be best if the retainer could be machined from steel.
It would seem part may available at a vintage trans shop. Any suggestions on parts source?
If that piece was bolted down and the damaged area brazed up then re-machined it would out last another 3 transmission rebuilds
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I don't think so Anthony I am going to thoroughly clean both surfaces Tin them with solder then sweat the two together I am hoping that the sweat seals the joint as my concern is that it may leak around the screw holes One suggestion that was made to me was to just put a flat plate on the engine but as you can see it is designed to take cold water from the water pump to the rear cylinders
I should have it ready to solder up by the end of the day but I won't be able to complete the job until the hole punch arrives later next week We will keep you posted on how it goes
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Can the damaged area be welded then re machined?
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I will just have to turn a bling eye mate
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Doesn't that model have running board supports?
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Hey mate didn't mean to be picky but remember you picked up on the screws in my indercators Love the work that you are doing
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Thank you so much Bill Will try and contact some of these people
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1 hour ago, Mattml430 said:
Got the front and mid bow test fitted and all seems to fold and sit ok. My mid bow had ended up about 3/4 of an inch higher than Ted’s roof but I’m not to concerned about that. Going to make the back bow with a slightly larger corner radius to try match the rear curve of the seat a little.
Do I see Philips head screws in the brackets
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Hello Paul
No cobber I am not a member of the Buick Club I have taken on the job of redoing the timber framework of the body and it has been hard as I only have 3 pictures The work that was done previously was very substandard I am slowly sorting out the jigsaw I do need pictures of the dickey seat hinges though
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I am working on a 29 Standard Roadster that has a Holden body Is there any one in Australia that has restored one and has photos of the woodwork for the last 4 feet of the body Also photos of the hinges that Holden used for the Dicky seat
Others have had a go at this car and its a bit of a mess. Need photos of the main bearers that run along the chassis and any cross timbers as well Thanks Ron
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Glad to hear that the day was awesome A real bummer breaking an axle though they make a handsome pair there together
I squeezed a fart out of the Senior this morning to sort out a generator that was not charging Lucky for me it was dirty contacts in the cut out Setting up to make a new side plate /water jacket for the engine The one that I made back in 1980 has rusted through So a new one out of brass is in order
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Mix the linseed oil with Kerosene or turps that way yo get better penetration
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Tim Myers D B parts sell them You will have to stamp them yourself e.g. Volts Model # ect
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9 hours ago, jari12 said:
Hi Ron,
Thank you. I'm in central NY. Right in the middle of the state in between Syracuse and Utica.
Mate I am in Western Australia Would love to help but the freight costs are out of this world
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2 hours ago, gundog99 said:
3 months is nothing ,I have been waiting over 3 years to have my 1853 Enfield rifle musket repaired
Might take me that long to find or make you a crank hole cover
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I have some of that brass extrusion I think I will conferm tomorrow Jari 12 Where are you located
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Ron’s 1928 DB Senior Phaeton
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Doug I will get my secretary to post a picture of the one that I will be using Its a Massey 135 and and a Massey Furgusson borer