Roger Zimmermann

You are confronted at the same problem I have from time to time: cheap parts, but horrible fees for shipping. You order a tiny part and it comes in a huge box...I have many examples of companies I avoid because of that. Usually, when you are dealing with individuals or very small companies, the problem is non-existent.

Pssss...Don't tell it to the others!

John, I'm sorry about your sore neck. At the next pictures, try to shake it from left to right! Pat: value? Certainly more than a Franklin Mint model just for the raw material I'm using to build it. As much as Mona Lisa? Certainly not, but who and how came the value of that painting? The raw material used for it was probably not very important... Anyway, values of such things are always totally subjective.

The logical step after finishing the suspension was to do the steering linkage. When you are looking at the parts, they are all easy and simple...As I had no dimension for them, I had to improvise the best I could, with the help of pictures. I did first the small ball joints with a 2mm ball (about .08") studs and cups. Easy, I have routine! Then came the steering arms; a rather complex part. Fortunately, a drawing into the '57 Lincoln/Continental shop manual supplement was a good help. Then came the tie rods and drag link. At the end, the idler arm was done; an easy looking part but I had no idea how it is constitued. I assume it could not be very different than the ones from Cadillac (which are notoriously undersized), but I could not do a coarse thread and have no play. Therefore, I did something on my own. All in all, I'm satisfied with the steering; maybe it is too fast: 2 turn from lock to lock! This atypical fast steering is the result of the parts I had on stock. There is a little bit of play in the steering box, especially at the worm. Due to the fast ratio, this is very noticeable. I had also to do a universal joint at the inlet of the steering box; by looking at the pictures in the shop manual it seems there is one. Anyway, due to the complicated original construction, a regular flector cannot be installed. On one of the pictures, that universal joint can be seen; it is not yet completely finished. Even if some details are not yet done at the front, I want now to go at the rear of the frame and do the rear axle and suspension.

It may not be so easy in Australia...

Thank you Charles! This is one of my goals: to create some illusion! To Scott: the backing plates are not yet done. They are, like you wrote, hardly visible, but they are. For the moment, I have too few details to do them and the steering linkage is to be done first. On the rear wheels they will be necessary anyway as, like my two other models, the emergency brake will be functionning.

Thank you Barry for the link; other people gave me the link. Impressive work, but don't hope that I ever will build a functioning engine... After the lower ball joints, it was time to do the spindles. This was a long affair as to see the progress I had to install each spindle on the suspension levers, install the drum/wheel assembly until the camber was right and the distance of the tire to the upper ball joint was more or less the same as the real car (12 X smaller, of course). Then, I had the problem to locate the spindle in relation to the suspension arms; fortunately, a member of the Mark II forum gave me the dimension I asked. The spindles are not the exact replica of the real parts; I had to suit them to the parts already done. Due to the addition of tolerances, the front thread will be 2 till 3 mm wider as calculated; this translate in 2" till 3" on the real car. This is indeed a benefit as I found the wheel too far inwards on the real car. On the pictures there are wood blocks under the frame; they are needed as I don't have yet springs Let's go now on the steering linkage with other ball joints!

Oui, merci Bernie, ça va bien! Back to reality: not only cars are suffering from age, humans too...It's just more difficult with spare parts.

Bernie, I usually have no time to look at what other people are doing. This moring, I had a look at what you are doing...Impressive at least! If you come to Europe in 2014, and if we have the pleasure to met, it seems that your wife will be speaking French with me!

You found the trick! However there are difficulties with that system: it's difficult to remove the parts from the car when the owner is there!

The lower levers are now more or less ready. Missing are the rubber bumpers (they will be done at a later date) and some holes, as well as the welded nuts for the shock absorbers. The bed for the spring was pressed between two forms, one was in polyester. I was careful not to apply too much force on the vice as I was afraid the polyester would not resist. Indeed, I could do 4 pieces (2 were scrap) and the polyester broke the last time I intended to squeeze a bit more. Some more "tools" were necessary to form the parts; I have the impression they are good for that purpose. The "inner" side is not so good looking as the outside; when the model is completed, the inside of the arms will barely be visible. Now, it's time for the lower ball joints!

No! it's my usual disorganized work place, especially when things are going well, like the front lower suspension arms! They will be ready soon; stay tuned!

Thank you Barry! There is no other way to have a working suspension!

To continue with the lower lever, I did a form for the spring bed with the intention to press a thin piece of brass between that form and the negative of it in polyester. While the polyester was curing, I began the upper ball joints for the suspension. I checked what I did with the Toronado (I still have all shop drawings), choose the suitable balls and turned the studs for the upper and lower ball joints. This is on the first picture; the lower balls are larger in diameter. The second picture is showing the balls brazed on the studs. On the same picture, there is a spare ball joint I still have for the Toronado. As the polyester would not cure (probably too few droplets of hardener), I continued with the upper cases. This is again a cast part, more complicated to do as a sheet metal case...At first I wanted to do the case as simple as possible, but I realized soon that I could not partially close the case to keep the stud in place. This is the third picture. After doing some special tools, I put some grease into the case, inserted the stud and then I squeezed the case with the tool. This action is bending a little bit the brass around the ball preventing it to go out. The last picture is showing both upper ball loints, lube for life!

Those arms are taking more time as anticipated (sounds familiar!); the shape is odd, nothing is square. Anyway, some progress can be reported as you can see on the attached picture. On the left, one arm is temporary attached together with screws; the other arm is not assembled. On top, there are both parts I cut too narrow and are scrap. What I have to do is the form for the spring's bed; I will try to do it as a pressed part with brass and polyester dies. Maybe...

Yes! I'm on the right way, even if I just discovered that both plates I'm working on are now scrap because too narrow! See, it happens to me too to screw up!

John, sometimes doing some work yourself let you discover things you would never see!

Thank you for your comments! Yes, a lot of patience is required for that, fortunately, it's free! Right now, I have some difficulties do reproduce the plate on which the spring is located. I will have to be imaginative to create a pattern allowing the spring bed to be formed. To better explain, I'm attaching the picture of a REAL lower arm.

Thank you for the answers! With the last pictures, one of my question was also answered. The cylinders are up the casting! Anyway, I'm voiceless; the people involved in that "repro" are doing that for the fun, certainly not for the fame. In some aspect, it's like my models and me...

Very nice casting! Dumb question after all I have seen: who is doing the machining? Greg? I suppose also that there are wet liners installed into the block, after machining, of course.

Before I'm tackling the lower front suspension arms, I finished the starter motor, add a little coat of primer and installed it on the engine. Of course, all those installed parts will be removed for the final paint (When?). The clear spot on the oil pan is where I had an interference with the frame. This spot will be improved in due time.

The scale you will choose is a personal choice. Some ideas: 1:10 is easy to calculate, but, the larger the model, the more details you have to add to do it in a realistic way. I choose 1:12 probably by accident as the wheels I had when I began the Avanti in 1963 were a good match for this scale. See the crude thing I did at that time when I was 18! As most models from the stores are in 1:18, I would not choose this scale. Cooper is very soft; it's hardly suited for a frame. Brass can be very easely turned, bent etc; this is my metal of choice. Gerald Wingrove do some body parts with copper; I'm not yet convinced that it's the right material for my purpose. Buy a bit from both and see what is best for you! A 1957 Mercury...with its extravagant exterior trim, not easy to duplicate!

Impressive...Not quite the place to be with white clothes! I always wondered how this was done; now it's less dark, just gray! How brittle is the casted sand once it is removed from the pattern?

This is a difficult question. In my opinion, once you decide which vehicle you would like to reproduce and are willing to spend months or years on THIS model, the first thing to do is to gather infos. Depending of the accuracy you would like to achieve, you may be forced to measure yourself the vehicle. It can take days to measure a complete vehicle, so if the car you intend to reproduce is at 1500 miles from home, you may be discouraged! Once you have the datas, (a shop manual is a good help too), begin with the fundations: the frame or underbody, depending of the car. You would not build a house starting with the roof; it's the same with a model. I began this model with the wheels and tires, it was because I had to do the tires on the previous model (the Avanti) and while I had good training I continued. I did then the engine because I had some dimensions and then the frame. Today, I would begin with the frame first because I may have trouble with the engine height: I have the impression that it is too tall. I will now continue with the front suspension, then with the rear one with the diff and drive shaft. At that moment, it will be a driving frame! Then, the floor will be done. When I'm that far, I will do a body probably in wood to either do moulds in polyester or as a pattern to shape panels in metal. I have not yet decided if the body will be brass/cooper or polyester like both which are finished. For the previous models I did a pattern with plaster; I will not use this material with the Mark II as plaster is too brittle. Maybe these lines will be an incentive to start or you will be definitively discouraged!

That's the purpose! Again I forgot to place a quarter or a car key next to the assembly for the comparison...