Gunsmoke
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Posts posted by Gunsmoke
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I like it as well. If you don't plan to keep it, I would do as JF says, insure it is running nicely and see what it sells for, likely in the $15K-$25K market area. It can be listed on many sites (like the Hupp forum here), cars for sale here (it would sorta fit the sites criteria) kijiji, eBay etc. You can also likely find a local or regional car club that may get you a lead. This is a very nice car, but the modern drivetrain may turn off Hupp lovers (although it could be brought back by a keener if price is right), but attract resto-mod lovers. good Luck.
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Poor prep and wrong product most likely, little impact caused by storage. Does not appear to have used primer, and paint used may not have been intended for this purpose. A good scraping followed by anything that looks presentable will do for now, even a thinned brush on material like black tremclad/rustoleum. can't look worse! Such products can adhere over minor rust.
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The posted rack appears to be missing 4 stainless steel strips (end to end) and 2 half strips for top row separated by a 3 bolt emblem. A couple of measurements might help as well as underside photo which might shed some light on location/spacing of hinge hardware. appears emblem may have been T shaped, such as a name with a symbol below it.
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The early Chrysler/Dodge engines (1930 DC8, CD8 etc going up to 1950's) had pistons varying from 2&7/8"-3.25" diameter but same general block length (about 30" head length), and the cams were just under 33" long (I just measured 2 spares I have). However, the Chrysler Imperials starting in 1931 had 3.5" pistons (adding about 2" of block length), so Imperial cams were likely in the 35" range for length. Don't have one to compare. Also had distributor in middle.
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Also drilled for a motometer.
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Ask is $43.9K Canadian, about $33K USD, close to top of market in my view for a CM6, but a very nice car, taxes here would add another $4K or so, plus your cost to retrieve it, making it a $50K car for Canadians.
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Some one wanting to do a resto-mod cruiser of this era would have a good starter with this, provided price goes no higher. Most such projects touch $70K-$90k, so paying $5K for a starter kit is not a big deal.
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Today's Hemming's daily blog has 2 very nice cars I think, a 1956 Chrysler New Yorker at S18K (this stunning hardtop reminds me of same year T-birds in some respects), and a very fine 1948 Hudson Commodore, again a great example of a major post-war styling change, this one is in an auction currently at $10K but not meeting reserve. Both appear to be un-modified factory spec cars.
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Enjoying this thread, but we are heading into page 20 on a congratulatory thread to Auburnseeker. May I suggest A/S that you open a new thread devoted to "Refurbishing/Restoring/Drooling over a 193?'s Auburn Phaeton/Convertible Sedan" etc. Would be easier to search for in future for Auburn Enthusiasts. JMHO.
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Great thread, first time I have noticed it, always enjoy topics on very specialized cars most of us will never see, let alone own. Too bad it typically takes 10-20 years to complete one!
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I agree with Taylormade, right hand end looks like a latch, perhaps to hold a gate closed? or a pair of window shutters?
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When I removed the molding from this '31 Chrysler CD8 Sedan, it had the spacers shown at each connection. Might have been a Chrysler only item? Here are the spacers. The photo shows bottom of body after molding and side apron were removed. Note cloth was wrapped around body lip as well, perhaps as anti-squeak, likely did not help with water retention?
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This New York Times Automotive supplement of Jan 04 1931 is on eBay currently. It shows an interesting array of cars available back then, interestingly, no Ford products shown?
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I'm looking for one of these moldings for my '31 Chrysler CD8 Roadster project. Anyone got a spare? BTW, Sedans used a 3/4"x1.5"x5/32" thick spacer (with 5/16" hole) between this strip and the body at every bolt (likely meant to avoid trapping water?). As far as I know, Roadsters did not use a spacer. I have some spare spacers, but easy pieces to make.
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I agree with K31, using ebay, kijiji, AACA forums and other internet options makes the search much easier, especially for rare stuff.
Couple of examples: I've been looking for a correct speedometer, interior door pulls and stop/tail light for my '31 Chrysler CD8 Roadster since fall of 2014 when I pulled it from a barn missing all it's gauges and brightwork. A 1 year only car, about 1600 produced, maybe 30 survivors, so parts are naturally going to be scarce.
3 years ago I found an ad on Ebay offering a "1930's era Buick speedometer"!. "Buy it Now" price was $100, of course it is a correct one for my Chrysler so I bought it. Haven't seen one listed since. This week I bought these even rarer interior CD8 Roadster door pulls from a member on here, scarce as hen's teeth, but he had listed them on AACA forum. Otherwise I would still be looking for next 10 years likely, have never seen any offered anywhere. (pic of door is off internet).
Finally I continue to look for a decent CD8 Tail/Stop light and stanchion, am told there are some around at high prices, will have to wait and see if something reasonable shows up (this one is left side mounted, originals were right side only).
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Found this 1918 Studebaker in a barn about 10 years ago, rough, but was all there with a running engine, some spare stuff. It's a big car. Guy was asking $1000, but I had too many other projects. Has since been bought by an acquaintance who also has a '31 Dictator.
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The '31 Gazelle casting was same for both 6's and 8's, but the bases were larger for the 8's which also had a larger radiator and shell. The 8cyl base has an outer diameter of approx 2&13/16", and I think the 6cyl was closer to 2&7/16". I believe the Gazelle with the opening in legs was for later model year, perhaps '32/'33.
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Nursing homes are a classic example of "where the rubber hits the road". No one wants to pay income tax or other taxes to build and operate them, so here we have a mix of private facilities and non-profit facilities. Typically locally they cost a per diem (daily cost) of circa $300-$400/resident, or roughly $100,000 for a year of occupancy. While the tax payers demand that the residents pay what ever their income and assets can contribute, the families of the residents say things like "he/she worked hard all their lives and should not have to liquidate everything to be in one". What they mean is " that's my inheritance you're messing with". No easy answer. 75 years ago, families took care of their older relatives at home, it was not easy, but it was a socially understood obligation. Not any longer, now we ask the government to take care of our elderly, but not to raise taxes to do so. No Win. Sorry to rant, let's get back to old cars!
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Note wheel rings are secured with 7 bolts, unusual? I see pics of 1917 Studebaker Model 18 6cyl car with 7 lug wheels on this site elsewhere. Perhaps earlier car with later wheels.
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The puzzle is a component of an Inspector Cross Murder Mystery (distributed by bePuzzled, Bloomfield, Ct in 1992). Don't want to give away results of investigation and clues from the puzzle, but if anyone (like some Cord 810 owner) wants the package, box, puzzle (24x30), 10 page mystery story, $10+ ride, send me a PM. BTW, you will note a piece missing in initial picture, since made one see this new picture..
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here's a better way to pass time in a nursing home. I've had this 1000 piece puzzle about 25 years, made it way back then, found it this week still in original box, so made it over past 5 days while the weather has been nasty. The 1936/37 Cord I consider the best looking and perhaps most desirable Sedan ever produced.
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First of all, I think this is a "Buggy" chassis, and not a buckboard. Buckboards were designed for "trucking" stuff, typically had the seat up front and a decent sized box. They were usually un-sprung (thus the term buck) and more robust vis-a-vis wheels. This buggy is curious for many reasons. It has no dashboard? The seat is very utilitarian compared to most I have seen. The steering is standard, and can take single or double shafts. I bought and sold this buggy last year, a very nicely appointed one from circa 1900. The double shafts hook to wagon at same point as single shafts, but have a double "whiffle tree". An interesting feature of the posted wagon is it appears to have a foot operated "sprague-type" brake. As for provenance of the posted item, and whether it is a "buckboard", I'll leave that to whomever puts down the cash. BTW, I bought this one for $400 and sold it a month later for $600, didn't have a place to keep it.
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60flattop how do you find such great comebacks!
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Note it is licensed as Antique Auto!
Help on identify a car
in General Discussion
Posted
Interesting that louvers in OP appear to open forward, perhaps to aid cooling in a very warm climate? Owner flipped hood end to end?