Gunsmoke
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PART 4: L'Automobile et le Tourisme: Oct 4 1930 Will have to add details later, forum says I've reached my limit for now!
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PART 3: L'Automobile et le Tourisme: Oct 04 1930; I've never seen one of these, not sure if any were built. Illustration of a Raincey circa 1899, the whole drive-train turns with the front steering, maybe an early similarity to the Selden Patent but a bit more sophisticated looking.
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PART 2: L'Automobile et le Tourisme: Oct 4 1930 Edinmass and some others might be interested in knowing the the French publishers were quick on their feet, including a photo of this nice Cord (photo likely taken spring 1930?), a good photo of the then new V-16 Cadillac engine, and an item on using a Zenith Carb on a Talbot engine. Pretty early photos of all these new things.
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PART 1: L'Automobile et le Tourisme: I've really enjoyed this nice distraction from the all the ....... I read with interest Bob's (1937hd45) posting on pg 3 of his recently purchased magazins (french) L'Illustration, L'Automobile et le Tourisme published Dec 1934. When travelling thru our Capital city (Ottawa, Canada) many years ago I walked into an old curiosity shop (sold books and maps)and asked if they had any Automotive stuff. He went into a back room and pulled out this copy of "L'Illustration, L'Automobile et Le Tourisme" dated October 4th 1930, 4 years earlier than Bob's. While written in french, my limited french teaching in High School (Canada is a Bi-Lingual country) allowed me to sorta translate much of it. I will post 6 or 7 postings. The first here shows items from the first half which is largely fine descriptions and pictures of France and details the great things there are to see while touring the French countryside and urban areas in your new touring car. Many of the photos are printed on the page, but some are printed separately and glued to the page on one edge only for easy removal I suppose. included in this first 4 is a map advising the tourists where to find good food and wine. Those french know how to live!
The back half of the magazin is devoted to the latest in Automotive developments and products, and finally 3-4 pages of advertising. Among the Automotive developments are pics of the Cord, V-16 Cadillac Engine, and various new "inventions".
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Rear Deck Cleats, typically need 4 of them. DCPDfan (Gary) has CD8 parts listed in parts for sale section (first listed couple of months ago), including several sets of rear deck cleats that likely suit your car. Check it out.
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OK, also got your PM. The rears on my CD8 were secured by carriage bolts snugly inserted in rear quarter panel fender well (not easily removable) from backside of body, and fenders had oblong holes to fit over ends of carriage bolts. Fender was secured by large "body washer" (about 1.5" dia) and regular hex nut. I note parts book for your model J says large and small washers? Since the carriage bolts were likely put in place as part of the rear quarter panel, they may be listed in that section? The pages C-12-18 to C-12-22 include several references to Model 72 screws, bolts, nuts and washers, but will be of little use to you since descriptions of size etc are not included. There are several cars like this around, see if someone who has one can provide a picture. Were it me, I'd do something similar to the '31's I noted above and see photos below (extra reinforcement is for RS step plate bracket. Anyway, happy hunting.
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That OP 1935 Auburn Boattail should be enough car to satisfy anyone's automotive desires well into the next life! I have no idea what it might bring $-wise in the current state of the hobby and the economy, but I'm guessing a big number. Magnificant!!
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The Ball and Trunion driveshafts have about 1/2" to 3/4" spring loaded end play, which may have been critical to ensure rear-end to transmission proper functioning. Would need to be considered if going to a U-joint type solution at each end. The early Chevrolets that used U-joints had a splined slip joint at transmission end. Any knowlegable drive-train outfit (like Parts for Trucks) should be able to make up a suitable shaft with U-joints and a spline type slip joint, but not necessarily a simple job. Balls (with or without needle bearings) and Trunions are still available, I refurbished mine (1931 CD8 Roadster) recently, work perfectly. Also critical to have final shaft balanced.
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Here are some photos of what you need, a pair of U shaped brackets and a pair of steel backing clips (to go against back side of bumper bars behind the medallion), and correct "c" shaped blocks to mount bumper brackets to ends of frame horns. While these U shaped pieces look simple enough to make they are not. They have a slight upward twist (maybe an inch or so) to line things up correctly, so they are a right and a left. These came off my '31 Chrysler CD8 but I expect the 6's use very similar item. As opposed to your nice "homers", these have a bit of spring to them for low impact bumps. The mounting blocks shown are same shape as ends of horns, take 4 bolts and "c" recess is just a bit less than double thickness of the brackets. I see your mounting blocks may be single bolt only. Put a "wanted' note in parts wanted section, guys like DPCDFan (Gary R), or vintchry (Rob Bu) may have something.
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Not sure which Auto Lit you have, but I think you will find the 1928 Model J (or 72) right rear (Roadster) Fender listed on page C-12-8 (lower right section of page) in the Chrysler Master Parts List of August 1934 for all cars prior to 1934 Model year. Several parts #'s are listed for that specific fender depending on your car's serial#. (likely due to minor changes during production), starting with #84158, 379995, 379960 and 379997. When using these parts lists, it is important to remember generic parts are usually in general listing areas (wheels, door handles perhaps), but parts specific to a Roadster only are listed in section dedicated to Roadsters (section C-27). Right Rear Fenders are often similar for Coupes, Convertibles and Roadsters.
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Yes John S in Penna, I'm a retired Architect living in Eastern Canada where the National and Provincial codes are strictly enforced. Been out of the construction side for 10-15 years now so not sure just how the latest codes read, but the thrust is toward ever more energy conservation (R60 ceilings, R20+ walls, triple glazing etc), and thus focus on building tightness, complex air exchangers, heat pumps (and solar heating) etc. Pretty technical industry now. I imagine it is somewhat different in warmer climates where cooling is more of the issue than heating. I would expect there are some jurisdictions in USA where insulation levels are not an issue at all.
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Some old car hobbiest's should stick to their knitting! In proper exterior wall construction in cold climates, a 6 mil fully sealed vapour barrier is mandatory by code on warm side of insulation (usually directly behind the drywall). Contrary to what many might think, most moisture that gets into exterior walls gets their from the inside space (laundry, showers, car washing, etc), due to many factors including the fact that air pressure tends to be higher indoors than outdoors, forcing moisture into the wall, especially around gaps in moisture/vapour barrier, electrical outlets etc. I could get into "dew point theory" but might get kicked off here!!). Modern construction techniques are designed such that walls can "breathe" to the outside, thereby drying out with the wind etc. Anyway, as for drywall, no need to use anything more than 1/2" on exterior walls as they do not need fire-rating, and in applications like this, don't need crack filling. 5/8" can be used for added strength, but really serves no other purpose. Fire-rated walls (separating 2 different spaces for example) do require 5/8" drywall both sides for a 1 hour rating, and doors in such walls may require metal/fire-rated doors and frames (such as a wall separating a garage from residential space). Back to my old car.
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But it will fit any Chrysler 8cyl (except Imperials) 1931-1933 wheels. Chrysler used the "Royal" term in 1931, so appropriate to use it in '31 on closed cars, or even open cars if you wish. I show illustrations from the 1931 Sales Brochure showing the options for wood spoked or wire wheels, but only the closed cars used the Royal we!.
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Paul D, what were you into last night! plste, useing, chaib, libks, "don't want the to blow around"! Spellcheck and auto correct can only do so much!! Or were you busy setting all your clocks ahead an hour! LOL
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The 1931 Chrysler 6 cyl hubcaps will not fit a CD8 wheel. If I recall, hole in wheel for CD8 caps is about 6.5" but for 6cyl cars it is 5.5". for 1931, both 6 cyl and 8 cyl hubcaps had a stylized C in the center. For 1932, the 8 cyl cars had Chrysler Eight in script, and the 6's had Chrysler Six in script. Here are 2 different caps for 8 cyl cars, the script one being 1932 (shown on a 1930 Marmon wheel), and the "C" one being an aftermarket 1931 CD8 cap. '31 and '32 8 cyl caps in good condition are hard to find. I have 2 or 3 rough ones of both types as spares if you are interested.
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The intertwined letters may give a clue, NGO, or GNO or ONG, etc, I can't think of any meaning of either letter? Maybe Ohio National Gas...
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Be careful with small-time auctioneers. I've seen/heard of situations where they charge a 20%-30% fee, plus all their expenses, and wind up taking 50%-70% of all proceeds. I had a friend who passed away 9 years ago and he had a large shop (about 30x60) full of gear, many chests fine small tools, power tools, lathes, valve grinder hoist, etc, you name it. I arranged for an appraiser to visit his wife as she had no idea what to do. He recommended against an auction company. He after an hour of gauging what was there said he stuff was likely worth $100K-$150K retail (but some of it was very old), but if she got 15% of its value she should just take it. She put a notice around the community that the whole works was to go in one deal, put a price of $20K OBO, and sold everything 2 days later. The purchaser had his own shop and wanted about 1/3rd of the stuff, and planned to re-sell the rest.
So my suggestion is to put a fire sale price (10%-15% of retail) on the whole lot, perhaps $1000, and a note around the community, and first guy who shows up with the cash takes it. Then he can worry about how to turn it into more money. Not worth anything just sitting there taking up space.
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Virtually identical to the frame for my for my '31 Chrysler CD8 Roadster, mine measures 24.75" x 7" and has same number and pattern of screws. Could be for the Chrysler CM6.
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Aw....... those wonderful 30's era bumpers, look so cool when glistening in the sunlight, but cost you half the price of the car to get them that way (OK, I'm exaggerating). Mine were not really suitable for a little TLC/buffing! (see them on the donor '31 Chrysler CD8 Sedan). After straightening them (no easy task), finding suitable missing medallions, making an intermediate missing brace and test fitting, I sent them for sandblasting and epoxy priming in black to protect them for a while until I decide what to do. Restoring/rebuilding a rough but rare car like this requires many potentially costly decisions, bumpers being just one. As mentioned if you opt for a high standard of finish for one major part, like bumpers, then you are likely to be squeezed to do the same for the rest of the brightwork (rad shell, lights, hardware, etc). Since the body is off to an expert for rebuilding and ready for paint (about 6-8 months), at a cost of likely $12K-15K, I have lots of time to think about other elements of the rebuild. it's only $$$$$!
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Interesting that louvers in OP appear to open forward, perhaps to aid cooling in a very warm climate? Owner flipped hood end to end?
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I like it as well. If you don't plan to keep it, I would do as JF says, insure it is running nicely and see what it sells for, likely in the $15K-$25K market area. It can be listed on many sites (like the Hupp forum here), cars for sale here (it would sorta fit the sites criteria) kijiji, eBay etc. You can also likely find a local or regional car club that may get you a lead. This is a very nice car, but the modern drivetrain may turn off Hupp lovers (although it could be brought back by a keener if price is right), but attract resto-mod lovers. good Luck.
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Poor prep and wrong product most likely, little impact caused by storage. Does not appear to have used primer, and paint used may not have been intended for this purpose. A good scraping followed by anything that looks presentable will do for now, even a thinned brush on material like black tremclad/rustoleum. can't look worse! Such products can adhere over minor rust.
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The posted rack appears to be missing 4 stainless steel strips (end to end) and 2 half strips for top row separated by a 3 bolt emblem. A couple of measurements might help as well as underside photo which might shed some light on location/spacing of hinge hardware. appears emblem may have been T shaped, such as a name with a symbol below it.
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The early Chrysler/Dodge engines (1930 DC8, CD8 etc going up to 1950's) had pistons varying from 2&7/8"-3.25" diameter but same general block length (about 30" head length), and the cams were just under 33" long (I just measured 2 spares I have). However, the Chrysler Imperials starting in 1931 had 3.5" pistons (adding about 2" of block length), so Imperial cams were likely in the 35" range for length. Don't have one to compare. Also had distributor in middle.
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Period images to relieve some of the stress
in Period Photos - Pre WWII
Posted
PART 4 (Continued): L'Automobile et le Tourisme: last posting of 4 parts, I promise.
The centerfold of the magazine had this wonderful 2 page spread on the "nomenclature" of car styles, in French (23 different models), English (20 different models) and American (10 different models). Under the "you learn something new everyday" slogan, note that only American style terms used Roadster, Coach and Sedan but list does not mention Tourer or Touring. The French use of Conduite (means "'Driving" rather than Chauffeured?), Berline and Torpedo as well as Limousine is interesting. And of course the British used their own terms as well, Saloon, Landaulet, Clover Leaf, and Brougham. The only common styles appear to have been various versions of Coupe, Cabriolet and Landau, all of which are French words. There will be a test in a few weeks, so study up!