1957buickjim

Thanks Straight Eight. Hmmm. Field Coils..? How do you test them after they are warm? Are they replaceable by the average home mechanic? Where would one find them to replace them? How do you replace them?..may be better to send the unit to a shop for repair perhaps.

Touche Rick! All good points for the organization and why it is important to particiapte/join. My question is are we addressing the issue with Mr. Weatherly regarding the dues / MAL? or going off on a tangent regarding the Nationals? With the original post, the question was about a sub level of dues that someone could pay.

David, just as a note you don't have to compress then to send them to my email. I can accept 1 MB photos. Thanks. Jim PS Your engine compartment looks great! I would opt for keeping rather than repaint. sweet original compartment.

Dave, the pics are great!! could you send them to my email address? jpickard@theaegroup.com. I am curious on the engine paint issue that you have with the color. When I painted mine, which was original, the Hirsch paint was a perfect match. Wonder if the paint was slightly different between the assembly plants? Mine was built in KC. Where was yours built?

I am wondering if there is an alternative to the check valve or one from another GM or other model that will work on the 57 Buick power brake set up. I have all the components but the check valve and have had zero luck on finding one on this WTB forum, ebay, etc. I have been looking for about a year and nothing. Anybody have a spare or idea of what could be used for this? Any ideas would be welcome. Thanks. Jim

I am still looking for a check valve and possibly all the associated lines for the power brake systen on a 1957 Buick. Also wondered if there is something that could be from another vehicle that would work. Thanks.

As a relatively new member to BCA and this forum, I would like to add my two cents worth as well. I live in SE MI, haven't had the time to join the chapter yet, but plan on it. I have run a number of volunteer organizations at the board level. What it looks like here is that Mr. Weatherly would like to have and enjoy his Buick with his friends, and belong to a local organization. He also stated that he is a senior member of society, I think. Why not look into a senior membership that may be applied for when you reach a certain age, 60 or 65 or some other acceptable age? That could be determined by the BoD possibly. At that point, when the application is approved by Nationals, the person could recieve the reduced rate, not need to get the Bugle by choice and the problem could be reduced to one of actively requesting the senior membership level. Hopefully National would be able to approve the senior memberships and it would not allow the general membership (those not at the request age) to join for a lower fee and cause a class issue. It also would allow those members who are of the senior age to make a decision to either be a full member ($50 / yr. with full rights, etc.) or senior member (directory only - non voting, etc). This might be a way to have both situations resolved, keep up the full membership option and dues to support the Bugle, and allow those, like Mr. Weatherly to enjoy a reduced membership option. Just my thoughts on it.

Thanks Jorn! I am looking forward to them.

Pirate, I am assuming by bushings you mean the brushes? I have bought a rebuild kit (new brushes, commutator bushing, springs and spacers) and will attempt the rebuild my self with these components? I am missing something? I think you hit the nail on the head with your description of the failure and cause. Hopefully I will get to taking it off the car this week and trying that rebuild. Jim

Topper 1961, Can you shoot a few pictures of your speaker, switch and hookup? I would like to get some pics for reference. I have everything but the speaker grille, which I am looking for. Any leads would be really appreciated. You can send the pictures to my email, jpickard@theasegroup.com if you would like. Thanks.

Gary, Try the eBay seller dmva. He has a number of oddball parts and such. I purchased a NOS transmission shift lever pring from him about a month ago. Otherwise, check with wheatbelt buick, Neil Freeman usually has a pretty good selection of parts. you may have to buy the whole brake pedal assembly, but it might be worth it. Also onn eBay is rpm-motorsports. I know that he is parting out a 57 special and parts are on eBay now. Hope this helps. If you are still interested in the tinted rear glass (all 3 pcs) drop me a line on jpickard@theasegroup.com. Maybe we can work out a deal. Good Luck - Jim

John, I knew that might have been it. I have been talking nicely to my car and repainting the garage is always a good option. I don't think it's the timing, the car runs well - no dieseling or such, idle is within spec. Battery is new. Maybe it is gremlins. I will give it a shot today and see if it starts up. If so, I am stumped. Wonder if when the car heats up something goes out of spec?

Thanks for the help. The prognosis thus far is I have cleaned thoroughly the negative cable connection between the engine and the connector as well as the bolt to the engine. Took off the positive cable, and low and behold, there was corrosion in the connector ferrule where the cable is soldered to the lug. Took that off and put another positive cable on and the car fired right up. Took it for a long drive today (to A2 to see UofM Football - about an hour 30 drive). Post game went back and it started right up again..no chatter. Drove the car home and then shut it off. Went to start it up 5 minutes later and back to square one. Car wouldn't start without a jump. Both times today the car was cold. It wouldn't start when it was warm. Other note was that when I drove home from the game, I turned my headlights on for the trip home. It was after that when I got home that the car wouldn't start without a jump. Any ideas? On another note, I will check those flat ground cables as John mentioned. Cant hurt to clean them up as well. Thank everyone!!

Lee, I also don't think you need to disassemble it as much as I did. I was restoring my column and bought another off of ebay for a learning curve, especially since my horn didn't work on my car. Jaybird is right, there is a groove cut in the brass fitting for the wire to rest in and to be filled with solder with the wire. That needs to be pretty flush to the surface or the horn button won't ride evenly and will cause a binding feeling in the shaft turning. If you try to solder it, remember that there is a plastic bushing that goes between the steering shaft itself and the brass fitting.That plastic wedges btween the brass and the shaft as an isolator so as to not conduct / ground out the horn. In one of the pictures (p3020079) I tried to show the two pieces (brass and plastic) It also shows the groove that Jaybird was talking about. That's my 2 cents worth. Good Luck Jim

Air58, I removed and replaced my steering column on my 57. Removal is not too bad, pretty self evident as to what has to be taken off. I suggest that you take lots of pictures during the removal process so you can see what it looks like when you go to put it back together. The biggest issue I found was the adjustment of the column. You will have to take the column off the steering box and take it apart. there is a number of press fit items on the steering shaft as well as the column. Keeping all the stuff (trans shift collar, and such) is what I found a bit tricky. The steering shaft and trans shift tube are spring loaded, so it is critical to make sure you remember what the spacing is on the bearings that screw in the trans shift collar. I have attached some pics as to parts and some of the items you might be looking at. Hope they help. Ask questions. I will be glad to give you my experiences doing that. All said and done, I did resolder my wire and still no horn. I don't seem to have any play / spring in the horn ring?

I have the same problem with my 57 Special. Can't get the horn to work at the wheel.

Thanks guys for the info. As for the cables, I purchased NOS negative and positive cables and installed them, so I am assuming that the wire gauge is proper for them. All posts and connectors on the cables are clean (new!). I will make sure that all other connecting points are spiffy clean as well. I did replace the solenoid, thinking it might be the problem, but same thing. When I jump it (i.e. 2 batteries) it turns over and starts no problem. Would the starter being worn and additional voltage cause it to turn over and start like that? From a clean up point of view, how would one approach that? Any knowledge or experience would be very helpful. Thanks.

I am asking the wise sages out there for some help. My 57 is having starter issues. When I go to start the car, the solenoid kicks in and chattters but doesn't turn the motor over. I know the obvious about the battery being low, but I have a new battery, and have tried it with 2 other fully charged batteries. I can start it with a jump from a battery, but when it is warm, (after running, or driving) the car will not start without a jump. I have changed out the solenoid with a new one, replaced all battery cables with new, and replaced the starter relay. I have slow charged the batteries until fully charged and still have the issue. I am open for suggestions as to what else to look for before I commit to pulling the starter motor itself. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

Thanks Dan! So all attaching square washers bolts were black cad across the whole car, if I read you right. And all the serrated washer bolts were clear (silver) - not painted. That helps a whole lot. thanks for taking the time to verify from your original 57. Much appreciated. Crazy how we can spend our time talking about finishes on bolts and washers, and still be extremely interested! Ha Ha Jim

I also think there are some on eBay currently. Might have to search 1957 Buick and see what comes up. I purchased a set of f/r from a place in Indiana for $99. Try the search. Good luck. Jim

I looked in the product service bulletin and there is a great picture on page 36 showing the fuel line set up with the fuel filter. It is shown for all carbs on the 57 along with the length of the lines. This forum is great for digging out the details! Thanks for your help guys..keep digging! Jim

Thanks for the info on the exhaust manifolds. I will look into it.

Thanks Bob for the description. I will look in the manuals for the pix. Your help is appreciated. Jim

They did offer it as an option. I think it was a dealer installed item. There is a service bulletin on inop rear speakers in the 1957 Product Service Bulletin book. Just looking for a picture of the installation.

Thanks Dan! I do use the Eastwood products and I was wondering how the hi temp stainless paint worked on the exhaust manifold. So the fender bolts most likely were black cad, not clear (silver)? Interesting. On the large serated washer bolts, they were also plated, not painted, is that correct? I am with you on the worm clamp. I have the tower clamps for all hoses (rad and heater), just aren't on the car yet. I thought they might have used the wire clamps w/side screw. So dash pot and associated brackets are all engine color, steering box and master cylinder are as cast - no paint (technically - I will use the Eastwood method, just as yourself). I really appreciate the help here. You guys are great!! Thanks Jim