Jump to content

kdml

Members
  • Posts

    326
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by kdml

  1. I am preparing to install my new windshield. I bought the 3M ribbon sealer, as discussed in some earlier threads. For those who have done this before, how close to the inside edge of the pinch weld, at the top and bottom of the windshield, do you position the ribbon sealer? I mocked up a small piece in the attached pictures. Do you install as close to the inside edge as possible or center on the pinch weld? Also, I have the same question about where it should sit on the A-pillar...close to inside edge or centered? I am thinking close to the inside edge for the A-pillar as I don't believe the windshield is wide enough to make contact if I center it. Finally, where should I position the seam where the two ends of the ribbon sealer meet? Thanks Doug
  2. Assuming you’re asking about a first gen. The back bumper is off my 65. Rearmost brace looks to be about 1.25” from bottom of floor pan to bottom of brace; over the body mount. Let me know if this is what you needed Doug
  3. I had looked at Clarks. Their catalog shows the part, but when you enter the part number it indicates it's discontinued. I will call James. I have purchased parts from him in the past. I did not see the lens on his website. I hadn't tried eBay. Thanks
  4. Does anyone have a source for a new license plate lamp lens for my '65? I see Cars has a listing for a lens for a 68-72 Riviera. In the picture it looks like what is on my car now, but I cannot tell how it really compares. http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=11371 Thanks Doug
  5. I’m pleased to announce that I have finally received an intact windshield on the 4th attempt. So, if you’re not in a rush, Summit is a good deal. Doug
  6. Strike two.... Second windshield arrived in worse shape than the first. Summit is sending a third and did not even ask for pictures this time. They are also going to contact Pilkington to discuss their shipping methods. I am on year 10 building this car, so I am glad I am not in a rush. Alex, have you received yours?
  7. Here are pictures of the logo on my windshields. The first pic is the logo from the windshield I removed, the second pic from the replacement. Here is something I found interesting...the picture of the windshield I removed was taken from the inside of the windshield to get the letters to face in the right direction. For the replacement windshield I had to take the picture from the outside to get the letters to face in the correct direction. Both logos were in the lower passenger corner of the windshield and both appear to have been applied to the outside of the window. So, was the original logo applied to the outside of the window backwards?
  8. Quick update on my windshield dilemma...Summit is sending me a replacement. I think Tom's assessment of what happened is correct. The staples holding the dividers in the box pulled through allowing the windshield to shift inside the box. Difficult to tell whether this was due to mishandling or bad packaging as the exterior of the box was perfect. In the meantime, here are some more pictures of the windshield. The first pic shows thickness as compared to the windshield I removed. I don't know whether the windshield I removed was original. The second pictures shows that the replacement windshield has a different colored band at the top as compared to what I removed (blue vs. brown). Not sure what was original. I tried to get a picture of the LOF logo, but it is in the smashed section of the new windshield. Doug
  9. Well, I received my new windshield today, shipped directly from Pilkington. Unfortunately, it was not packed as securely as Bernie's and was broken in a number of places. Both upper corners were broken and one lower corner was completely smashed. I just got of the phone with Summit and emailed them pictures of the damage. I have attached some pictures for your viewing enjoyment. I can confirm that it is the same thickness as the windshield I removed; about 1/4". I have not removed it from the box to verify any other details as I am waiting for confirmation as to how Summit wants to handle this. Doug
  10. The only information I have on the difference between the 2 options at Summit is what I posted above, which is the design of the logo. I did not get into too much detail about the logo design as it was not my concern. As for the thickness, there was a previous thread on this forum which indicated replacement windshields are generally thinner than the originals. I ordered the cheaper of the 2 windshields and will report back when I receive it. Since it is being shipped directly from the manufacturer, I don't expect to receive it until the end of the month at best. Also, if you are going to order the cheaper windshield, Summit offers free shipping on orders over $99. I needed a couple of other items which put me over the $100 and I received free shipping. Please note, the additional shipping charge for large items is still charged. Doug
  11. I checked with Summit on the difference between the 2 options. They indicated the difference was in the logo. The $96 version has an older style LOF logo and the $125 version has a generic spray on LOF logo. The glass is the same. As for thickness, when I was researching options I searched this forum and found a comment that replacement windshields you can buy today are thinner, which needs to be considered when installing. I am going to place an order for the windshield, as this is cheaper than any of the other vendors I spoke to. I will wait until I can phone in the order, as I am interested to see how they can ship this for 9.99 without it showing up at my house broken. Doug
  12. I have been getting estimates on new windshields and stumbled upon these listed at Summit Racing. I was surprised to find these on their site. The prices looked good too. I am not sure what the difference is between the two choices. I am going to call them to find out. Figured I would post this in case anyone else was looking for a new windshield. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pkc-400043595/overview/year/1965/make/buick/model/riviera https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pkc-400043594/overview/year/1965/make/buick/model/riviera Doug
  13. Thanks Tom Just what I needed
  14. I am going to start cleaning up my parking lights. What part of the grills get painted. I can tell that the section between the 2 top bars gets painted (circled in yellow in the picture). Does anything else get painted? There are 2 other spots that look like they might have been painted, but it might just be dirt which won't wash off. I have added red arrows pointing to them in the pictures. They are where the bars meet the main part of the grill and the top of the grill. Thanks Doug
  15. The back all looks silver. If I remove the silver I get to the color?
  16. Is there any way to restore the color of the trunk lock emblem? The red section of mine is no longer red. Thanks Doug
  17. I understand the quarter window regulator spring should have some tension. When I removed the motor the regulator arm snapped into a loose position. When I reinstalled the motor, I spun the arm so there would be tension on the spring throughout the full range of motion of the window. If I did not set it with this amount of preload, the spring would fall off the regulator at the one end of the motion. When I run the motor fully up and down I can hear the spring moving. It is quite noisy. Did I preload the spring with too much tension? Thanks Doug
  18. Thank Bill Found this on Steele's site. https://www.steelerubber.com/flexible-run-channel-kit-70-1886-62 I assume this is for the channel for the front of the window. Is this the material for the channel supporting the rear of the window? https://www.steelerubber.com/run-channel-mohair-liner-70-2863-58 Thanks
  19. Anyone have a source for the felt in the window channels for a 65? I did some searching online, but I must be using the wrong name. Thanks Doug
  20. Thanks all Jumping to both terminals didn’t work. That is how I started. Running a wire from the negative battery terminal to the case and a wire from the positive terminal to one of the terminals on the motor worked. Switching to the other terminal on the motor worked in the other direction.
  21. I have all of the window regulators and motors removed from my '65. They were all removed when I purchased the car. I have disassembled and cleaned out all of the old grease from the motor. The spin freely by hand. I would like to test the motors before reinstalling. I assumed I could connect to a car battery and they should operate, but it is not working. There are two connections on the motor. Is there a proper order to connect? Do I connect both to the battery or one to ground? Thanks Doug
  22. I did not properly label this last picture, but I am guessing that I was trying to show myself where the spring attaches to the clamshell. Maybe someone who's car is together can confirm.
  23. Here are some additional pictures, which more clearly show where the spring attaches to the fender
×
×
  • Create New...