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Thanks all I am not really overly concerned with originality; however, I am trying to keep a stock look (at least to the uninformed). As far as concerns about wearing through the hoses, the only reason I was looking into this, is I ran the hoses under the A/C compressor bracket, as they were originally, an already noticed where the bracket was making a nice mark on the hoses. I did not think about the fuel lines, but I will need to wait until I determine what carb I will be running long term. The original 4GC is on there for the initial start up, but I plan on moving up to something larger as the engine is not stock (despite the effort I am putting in to make it look somewhat stock) Ed, I did not even know there was a bracket to hold the valve. When I bought the car there were no heater hoses or valve. Any picture of what the bracket looked like?

Will do Thanks Tom

Anyone route their heater hoses under the intake manifold to clean up the top of the motor and cut down on the number of bends? I am thinking of doing it for my '65. Also, any reason the heater valve needs to be up towards the front of the motor? I am thinking of moving it behind the intake. Thanks Doug

The trans vacuum modulator line has a fitting on the end which appears to thread into the base of the carb. Unfortunately, the threads are different sizes. Is there supposed to be an adaptor between the line and the carb base? Carb is the original Rochester 4GC Thanks Doug

I just installed mine and have the Best Gasket complete engine kit and it was included. If you go to the Best Gasket website you can bring up a picture of the gasket kit with a list of contents. Might be worth a call to the vendor you bought the kit from or Best Gasket to see if they will send you the gasket

Thanks Rob I looked at the pictures in your photobucket account and your suspension looks like mine. That makes me think I am good to go; just need to add a little weight, which will come when I finally get my engine assembled

Thanks Steve Probably going to grab a few big friends to jump up and down on the frame. I am sure everything is fine, but I would like to see the suspension move a little to confirm.

As part of the total restoration of my '65, I rebuilt the front end last year. At the time I did not have replacement upper control arm bumpers, so I left them out. I finally picked up a set and realized I cannot install them as the control arm is laying on the frame. I figured this was caused by the drivetrain being out so there is no weight on the front end. I bounced up and down on the frame to see if the suspension would move and it would not budge. Yes, I know my 150lbs does not compare to the weight of the engine, but I figured it might see a little movement, but there was none. I am assuming I will need to wait until the engine is installed to slide the bumpers in place. Before I assume this is correct, do the pictures of my front end look correct? I would rather not discover I was wrong once the engine is in. I cannot find any pictures of the front end with the engine installed, but I was able to find pictures of someone else's front end, I took at a show. Will my front end actually move that much when the engine is installed? Thanks Doug

Thanks again Jason I took a look at my old support and I am going to clean it up to reuse it with a new bearing.

Thanks Jason I will post over at V8 Buick to see if anyone has used the Cars version before. My bearing support is not in bad condition, so I may just press in a new bearing to the old support Doug

Anyone?

I am replacing the center bearing and support on my '65 driveshaft. I ordered new parts from Cars Inc and the bearing support looks slightly different. The first picture shows that the clips which hold the bearing in the support are not as deep as on the original. This will place the bearing support in a different location on the shaft. It will also make it so the slinger which sits behind the bearing does not fit into the bearing support as deep (pictures 2 and 3). Has anyone used this bearing support before? Is this a problem? Thanks Doug

Thanks all I will be having someone press in the new bushings, as I don't have a press. I just wanted to be able to give them specific directions on how far to press in the bushings.

That link is not working for me. What did you search under? I tried control arms but did not find what I was looking for

As the title states, who has installed these bushings? They are a little different in design than the original bushings I removed. The overall length is the same as my originals, but the inner sleeve will stick out further on one side than the originals (see picture). Is this going to cause any issues? I don't believe so, although it will move the control arm over slightly in its mounts - correct? Should I press the bushing in all the way until the ledge bottoms out on the arm or should I leave it out slightly as original? Thanks Doug

Mike, Feel free to provide pictures of the other baffles. I may have not got to them in my restoration yet. Also, others may want them as reference as well Thanks

Mike, I do have another question. Where did you get the rubber material for the seals?

Thanks Mike, great post. On the headlight plates/baffles are the rubber seals the same shape? One of mine looks like it was replaced with some other material. Thanks again, I will post up if I still have trouble figuring it out

I did not have any luck finding something as a replacement for the floor seal. At this point, I have some leftover camper tape (goes in between a camper or cap and the bed rails of a pickup). I am going to try this, as it is spongy enough to conform to the floor and plate.

I purchased these inner fender seals from rubber the right way, as I figured I needed them (see first picture). Unfortunately, my originals were non-existent and I cannot figure out were these go. Anyone have a diagram or picture of where these belong? Also, I had these (second and third pictures) splash shields in a box of parts that came with the car. Any ideas where they belong and where I can get replacement rubber pieces for each? Thanks Doug

Thanks Rob I found the screws, they were in a different bag of parts

Thanks all I will try to find some rubber hose to use as replacements One other question...are the metal brackets (shown in the picture) supposed to be removable from the lower radiator support. One of mine fell right off, but the other doesn't come off

When I pulled my '65 apart I found these two types of bumpers, circled in red, on the lower radiator support. What do they do and does anyone make replacements? Thanks Doug

I started with the ROA site and found a tech tip about making a seal to slip up into the column, to keep fumes from traveling up the column. I did not see anything specific about these seals. I will take another look Thanks

There is a plate that screws to the floor around the steering column. There are seals on each side of it. Does anyone remake these, mine are kind of dry. Thanks Doug