c49er
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Posts posted by c49er
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The Napa 1062,1073 or Wix #51073 are correct for the chrysler eights including a lot of the early hemi's.
The oil filter housings on the six cylinder cars have 1/2" external oil lines and is full flow. The eights have no external oil lines-cannister is bolted directly to the block.
The correct OE factory Mopar oil filter element that properly fits and completely full flow filters the 1942-48 chrysler straight "8" --- and it also fits the six cylinder cars is...
MoPar #1123387, it's a woven string type filter .
You can use this MoPar filter element to be sure of the element internally sealing against the filter housing dome cap and completely filtering all oil that goes through it.
Shown is my 1948 chrysler eight engine with the directly bolted on full flow filter housing....
Bob
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If gas sat in that very hard to find 20 gallon eight cylinder tank for 57 years I doubt that it will clean up very well and be a good solid safe to use tank.
I have been through this many times in the past with the 1946-8 chrysler tanks when doing restorations on them.
You can buy a repro 17 gallon (Six cylinder) tank that will fit if you find the six tank straps. It fits all 1942-48 Mopar cars.
You might get lucky with your tank though..
Be careful when removing the gas line from the tank as there is a short little brass crush connector fitting that will fall out of the tank fitting as the line is pulled out.
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Thanks for finding and posting that! I'll use it in the future on my Chrysler eights.
Bob
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It's a Windsor six hardtop which they made 9925.... way more of than the 2800 NewYorker hardtops. The roofs of course don't just pop off either!
Craigs list is full of BS'ers!!!!!
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I have never seen the sequence that you are seeking either. .You should be able to figure it out though!
I roll em ( C39/C49's) over to TDC for each cylinder when I do them with a remote starter switch.
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The M5/M6 hydraulically opersated transmissions main wear issue is the direct speed sleeve, input shaft and brass blocker ring. When worn severely the trans will bang into or out of high range.
This wears shows as fine silver and gold colored particulates in the trans oil. There is a fine screen mesh filter in the transmission to catch larger metal debris.
Reverse gears will never have excessive wear and prevent operation of it.
The shift cover could cause no reverse or most likely the shifter rod out of adjustment- the very common problem with no reverse engagement.
Bob
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It must have some gold doubloons in it.
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The reverse shift lever only moves 1/2" at the most.
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Master cylinder by-passing fluid.
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The engine can shift forwards and backwards because of rotted motor mounts and sometimes tighten up the reverse rod.
The lever to the rear is the reverse lever. It should have just a wee bit of linkage slop-(freeplay).
You need a factory shop manual if you are to keep the car and be able to fix it too..
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Adjustable Shift rod adjustment required.
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1950 Chrysler timing chain and gears...Windsors are six cylinder cars. Shown is the 1950 Chrysler straight eight TC setup. Looks the same as a six.
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Ballistol is a special lubricant that freed up a C39 heat riser two others could not free up. A machine shop gave me a sample to try. It worked.
The chrysler eight heat riser shafts/bushings never seem to wear or get loose like the six cylnder engines and therefore more likely to sieze up.
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If the HR is stuck open-weight hanging down and you cannot free it up at all after all lubricating efforts don't force it. I'd leave it as is-open.
The other reason the manifolds crack is they cannot expand/contract along the block because of the three sections are rusted together at the two tapered joints. This causes a crack at the end wings.
The other area they crack is right below the intake manifold heat riser chamber-a thinner oval part of the exhaust manifold that then slopes down to the 4 bolt flange header pipe. When they crack in this area it's extremely hard to see the cracked area.
These manifolds are not easily repaired if cracked in this thin neck area.
Bob
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If you have the drivers- not passenger side hinge pillar serial #(vin) I can tell you what year and possibly who has owned it last-if it is a T&C chrysler..
C39N =eight cylinder NewYorker or Town and Country car.
C39 is the beginning of the engine numbler which will match the same # stamped on the rear of the drivers side of the frame just forward of the bumper bracket.
The 3"X4" Firewall data plate will tell all options ect on your car and body model.
Post a pic of the Firewall Data plate and I will decipher it for you if you post it today-I will be gone to AZ tomorrow.
Bob
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If you have the drivers- not passenger side hinge pillar serial #(vin) I can tell you what year and possibly who has owned it last-if it is a T&C chrysler..
C39N=eight cylinder NewYorker or Town and Country car.
C39-...... is the beginning of the engine numbler which will match the same # stamped on the rear of the drivers side of the frame just forward of the bumper bracket.
The 3"X5" Firewall data plate will tell all options ect on your car and body model.
Bob
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Hopefully your heat riser is free or free's up easily! When a straight 8 chrysler heat riser is frozen it is usually frozen solid. Not an easy thing to free up.
I have done many chrysler straight 8 exhaust manifold jobs over the years.
Glad you are in 80 degree and higher temps so you can properly use the 30W oil:D.
Bob
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Now the 1951-2 Imperial 2dr hardtop is a pretty rare car and has the Hemi too! I like those!
I have a 1950 NewYorker straight "8" hardtop....a low production chrysler too.
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I use 30 weight in my old Mopars + ZDDP .
I have used 30W Detergent for 40 years in my 1946-52 Chryslers-sixes /eights and Hemi's. They all have run just fine and no issue's warming up either. Have never had an engine failure in any of them. I never switch brands of oil.
In my modern cars I use what the manufacturer calls for.
Now------Easy Rusty, you are going to have a boob heart attack.
Bob
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1950 chrysler 4 doors have very little value unless totally top notch restored.
I have a 50 Chrysler 2 door Royal coupe. Runs, looks bad like the one posted $500.00
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Chrysler DID Recommend 30W oil for normal driving conditions as shown in this 1951 Chrysler owners manual.....
I know it says the same in the 1949 C46 manual also.
Bob
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I'd think it is easier to swap a known good trans into your car. In 1950 there are two different M6 transmissions-an early and a late. The early type will have an external e-brake band on the back of the trans while the late M6 trans will have two internal brake shoes hidden inside the rear trans brake drum.
They are not a direct swap over as the rear extension housings are different and the e-brake cables are completely different too.
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Gold colored oil is a sign of extremely worn syncro rings.
You most likely will need a new Mopar input shaft, a blocker ring and direct speed blocker ring sleeve to fix the into high range lock up problem.
The oil pump pressure also needs to be checked, needs to read at 40lbs or more.
You need a factory shop manual and or a good mechanic who understands these M5/M6 transmissions.
Bob
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Get the ignition back to stock and all will work just fine.
1948 Chrysler New Yorker. Oil Change questions
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted · Edited by c49er (see edit history)
Some pics of a 1946-8 Chrysler eight oil filter housing and Mopar element.... Plus a Hemi oil filter housing shown that is the same as 1949-54 Chrysler housings that oil filters can be purchased easily almost anywhere and which could be interchangable with the earlier 1946-8 oil filter elements-maybe different size and materials between the two.