ojh
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Posts posted by ojh
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Is the inside brass or 'terne plate' with lead? If its lead in there that might be what the radiator shop guy is concerned about, the leading will have had fluxes used and they are corrosive - that greenish stuff you see on the joints in your houses water pipes? Maybe you could flush it with baking soda laced water to neutralize the flux if you're concerned.
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Also, check the accelerator pump, the gaskets in them won't live with alcohol laced fuel and are probably hard as a rock making the pump nonworking. The gaskets are a bellows, if they're hard they won't push fuel thru to the squirter.
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Back on the kingpin, That capnut really shouldn't be tightening down against anything, its there to keep the kingpin from dropping out, I'll bet the original assembler used a hammer to seat the kingpin in the taper, #20 the thrust washer, #8 machined step washer to register the kingpin, #9 washer to protect #8 from the capnut so that the capnut is tightened to the kingpin and NOT the spindle. If the capnut is tightened to the spindle then the kingpin would want to turn with the spindle and steering will be difficult.
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Thanks for posting, very interesting setup and I think you diagnosed it proper, the thrust washer #20 is where I'd be looking, theoretically you make the castlenut wrenchtight you could pull that washer out if not for the kingpin, it would have a few thou clearance from top of the axle to the spindle. Its probably set up on the tight side from the factory and probably a coating of oil (parafin based oil now turned to wax?), remember that truck really is on the 'new' side mechanically - maybe nobody wanted to drive thing because it steered so hard and it just sat at the yard and other trucks were used?
I bought a used machine that had an oil leak, they used parafin based oil for lubricant and some of the parts are literally glued together with that oil, I kept some to show people, 2 large plate washers 3" diameter each about 1/2" thick, and you cannot separate them by hand.
Again, thanks for posting the setup, I really have been pondering how the castlenut could get to wrenchtite without jamming the spindle, what looks like washer #8 must be a shim so that the nut pulls the spindle tight without transfering the load to the top of the spindle.
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15 hours ago, WPVT said:
Thanks. Can you tell me what the steering ratio is on yours ? That would be the ratio between the number degrees on the steering wheel (turns times 360 ) relative to the number of degrees that the wheels arc.
I loosened the top to bottom clearance on the kingpins (it was zero), put 90W oil in where the washers are located, then alternately jacked up and lowered the axle, theoretically giving the lubricant an opportunity to get in between the washers. Pretty remarkable really, to put the entire front end weight of the truck on two 2 1/2" washers. That's not much surface area. The designers knew more than I do, however, so who am I to question their work.
Maybe I'm dense, but, I can't get my head around the tapered kingpin, how you can loosen it, what the kingpin locking nut tightens against and the entire arraingement? Can you take a picture of it?
Here's a pic of the truck I putt around on and it has 4 wheel steering:
On a brighter note, with only 12K miles on the truck, maybe it isn't broken in yet?
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Perhaps you can locate/borrow a set of those old Hunter Wheel Alignment plates to set the front end on, they'll turn and you'll be able to quantify the resistance.
Is it equally difficult turning to left or the right? Like if it had too much caster?
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I got to tour the Yankee Lady B-17, they let me into the belly turret and told me that the earlier B-17's accessed the belly turret from the outside only and the belly gunner took a pistol in there with him. And they volunteered for those jobs.
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Heat and melt some wax down inside it.
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You can try to raise the float level a little to help get the idle circuit flowing earlier.
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Isn't the kingpin locked in place so it can't turn?
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35 minutes ago, TTR said:
One cost I try not to keep track of is the amount of time I “donate” or “volunteer”, i.e. choose not to charge during major jobs, as full knowledge of such would likely make me loose what little hair I still have left or perhaps even give me a stroke. 😟
I keep track of it, my daily labor sheet details what I did, problems etc and how long it took, in a seperate note I detail non-billable time and what was done during that period. The total of bill list 'X' hours of billable and 'X' hours non-billable so the customer is fully aware that we took the extra step without expectation of renumeration. Such nonbillable time would include things we were curious about and investigated above and beyond the original scope of work; things we did that we felt took us too long because we had to redo it or made a mistake; the replacement of things during the 'punch out' phase where we'd have to replace/repair something we installed.
I just feel its a considerable part of every project and deserves to be acknowledged.
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The worst part after spending a year going thru and replacing everything is when you start to drive and debug it and discovering about half the replacement stuff don't work and you have to tear apart and fix or replace the replacement stuff.
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I just got the engine running and on the right side low, just above the oil pan is a row of 5/16ths bolts going into something. Each of these bolts is leaking oil. I thought they were 1/8npt plugs going into the oil galley leaking, I pulled one out and find out it is a bolt and has a brass washer. No mention of these are in the manual, anybody shed light on them? Do i replace the brass washers with new copper ones? pipe dope on the threads? will something drop into the oil pan if I take them out? What are the bolts holding? There is a row of them running front to rear of the motor, you can just barely see them from up top and can't at all from underneath.
Any insight is appreciated, Oj
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I wouldn't think so, if they were bad enough to affect steer then you'd have up/down freeplay. Its winter, I'd take it all apart for a looksee. You describe it as all being in good condition so I'd wonder if you were trying to steer it static, it should be moving before trying to steer it, you'll put excessive strain on the steering box unless its moving, that and tire pressure has to be up to snuff.
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I think his right front tire has run over the 'HandiCapped Only' parking sign - boy, is he in trouble!
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Since you're playing around it'd be interesting to see where the timing is with a vacuum gauge attached, where you read the highest manifold vacuum while moving the distributor and back down a little, then compare it to where you are now. I mention this method only because I question some of the readings you're getting - not saying you are doing anything wrong, its just sometimes old mechanicals indicators aren't where they ought to be and you're getting too many inconsistancies so the manifold vacuum method of setting the timing is just a way to confirm if the indicators in the book are right - if it comes back to anywhere close to what you now have then its' right, if the manifold vacuum method is way off then you know to dig deeper because you are dealing with the effect and not the cause of a problem.
I hope this makes sense to you, I hate getting 'wordy'.
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Thats an interesting distributor, thanks for the pics and explanation. With the timing retarded the starting should have been easier and the motor would be lazy when blipping the throttle.
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A better description of what it is/isn't doing please.
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I've never messed with an old Olds distributor and it sounds like there are 2 seperate adjustments, the 'O' adjustment and the Distributor timing adjustment. Maybe the 'O' adjustment is for winter/summer advance/retard? so you could change it without loosening the distributor? like it rotates the advance plate inside the distributor? Reading the instruction to set timing it tell you to loosen the hold down plate and place the arrow to 'O' position and tighten bolt. Then it tells you to start the engine and revolve the distributor to center the 2 balls on the balancer and tighten clamp bolt. and: 'Note - see that the hold down plate arrow is in the center 'O' position'
Kinda tells me that the hold down plate is inside the distributor and is rotated around with the distributor body when the timing is set. Once the distributor timing is set and tightened with the clamp bolt it sound like you can advance/retard it a couple degrees on the 'hold down plate' without loosening the distributor.
that right?
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Thats just the 2020 version of a salesman smacking the GTO bumper with a sledgehammer.
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I've met and and know a few but I have the fondest memories of Zeke Justice visiting my shop whenever he was on the east coast, he'd come and sit and we'd talk aluminum shaping and welding, his days at Kraftworks, TQ Midgets & IndyCars, he paid me the ultimate compliment 'this is a comfortable shop, I could work here'.
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Carter BB, 'Climate Control' choke They're pretty basic. See if the linkage rod from the throttleplate to the choke housing is hung up of if the choke flap (they call it the choke valve) may have lost a screw and is hanging up (not likely). Inside the choke cover you'll find a spring that closes the choke valve and tucked away where you can't see it is a vacuum operated piston, both spring and piston deal with the automatic operation of the choke.
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I wonder why you are only getting a 'little shock'?
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I have to make an exact copy.
Pre war car service at modern dealership.
in General Discussion
Posted
A buddy bought a late '20's Buick survivor and showed me a work ticket when the original owner drove the car from Colorado to Virginia, the ticket was dated in the 1950's and the Buick dealer was prepping it for the drive, they replaced 2 spark plugs, did some lubricating and adjusting, I think the bill was about $14 and change. I can't help but reflect that that must've been quite a trip, it must've taken days. They must've done a good job.