ojh
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Posts posted by ojh
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Thats typically caused by the float not being clipped into place by that little wire gizmo, it clips around the float shaft and latches against the needle & seat. Without it being clipped in place the entire float assembly rises up and fuel dribbles into the engine thru the booster. When it clips in it is a very positive latch, probably hear it snap in place.
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A friend was restoring his Dad's Model A Tudor, he had pulled out the rear upholstery and found copper tanks inside the panels, they were joined together with plumbing and there was an outlet but no inlet. He asked around and finally got a plausible answer, the area where they lived was 'The Plains' in Virginia a bit outside of DC, it was notorious back in the days of prohibition for the number of stills. People would smuggle the hootch into DC for much needed cash and the tanks were a 'dealer installed' option. He thinks just as his Dad bought his from the dealer the law was repealed and the tanks were never completed and just left in the car.
They are still in it, covered but still there for the next restoration guy to puzzle over.
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On the way to the Abbey for the fruit cake you could stop at Knolls' and get one of their Strawberry-Rhubarb pies, hot from the oven, a quart of cold milk and a fork - I guarantee you'll forget all about them fruitcakes with THAT if front of you!
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Be aware of a condition I call 'Expanding Horizons'. Thats what happens when you have the project in front of you and you develop a plan on what you want to do. Once you take things apart then you can see more work you want to get done while you are right there, I guarantee once you take that extra step you'll see even more things you could do. Thats 'Expanding Horizons' you couldn't see that extra work until you got to to a certain point. The real problem when you get Expanding Horizons is that, now, the project is dictating to you. It means the project now has control over you. Bad juju that if you paying somebody else to do the work.
Like you decide to replace the brakes shoes and rent a hub puller, when mounting the puller you decide you could use some new wheel studs, you pull the brake drums and the wheel cylinder has a leak and needs replacing, the backing plate is cruddy so you pull it to clean, in that process you see the emg brake cables are in bad shape so you check the restoration catalog and decide it's time to replace all the hardware right up to the emg brake handle up in the cab, now you've got some brand new bright shiney parts and you are now officially hooked, there'll be no stopping point after that. When you thought to replace the brake shoes you couldn't see far enough to predict what would happen. The guy you put in charge of doing your truck has to have enough experience to control these situations and act in your best interests.
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Looks will be deceiving in this case, a shop will pull the bed and then you'll get a long list of additional work that needs to be done. I'd be wanting the shop doing the work close enough so you can visit often.
It looks like a great project, a 'keeper' that.
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13 hours ago, John348 said:
That was the case, this new platform that E Bay is going to mandate on April 6 is cutting out paypal.
I hadn't heard, well well. I trust Ebay's judgement, I'll assume they recognize a problem and are making an improvement. We shall see, I have been known to be overly optimistic.
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34 minutes ago, GregLaR said:
Do they also have "that strange, untraceable accent"?
"Heelo my neem is Robert. How kin I hilp you todee?
The only thing I'm sure of is that his real name is not Robert.
That was when Paypal was good enough to respond, now they make it impossible. I mean that, you can't speak to anybody in Paypal. Thier 'Contact' section is circular where you click on a link for contact and then you have several options that you already exhausted in order to get where you are, when you choose any of them you are brought back to the 'Contact' page where you started from. There is a telephone number that when dialed you get a message 'due to unusually high demand there is an extended wait time' and you are referred to the 'Contact' link at the website. It is done like this on purpose.
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2 minutes ago, Locomobile said:
Oy.. I would definitely cheat a bit with an oversize tap drill. 75% threads are not always imperative, especially with that material thickness. If you're not already use a good two flute tap with lots of oil. The center web of the two flute is much heavier.
As I wrote above check with the local Machine shop or weld shop, they will likely have a tap burner. It's a carbon electrode connected to a variac transformer. They set the electrode on the tap and keep cranking the current up until it burns through it. An EDM machine can do it too. Taps are hard as glass and why they are so brittle. Only thing that ever worked as a removal tool for me is a carbide blank, it has to be held in a mill etc, lest it veers off to the side and spoils the piece. Working in machine shops since 1979 I've seen a good number of afternoons (and parts) ruined with a broken tap. It's the last operation and one of the most risky.
Ron
Yes, a friend has an EDM machine, pretty amazing gizmo.
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Blame the right people, E bay provides the platform and manages the sale, its PayPal that does the money and they are separate. You haven't lived until you try to complain to a person on Paypal, Ebay you can call and speak to somebody, PayPal makes it impossible on purpose.
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Last week I broke an 8-32 tap on a stainless luggage rack cross member and had to replace the whole thing, I'll have me a set of those extractors!
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Before I drop the tank I connect a rheostat to the wire going to the gauge and connect it to the ground at the tank, then I see if I can operate the gauge. I want to see the gauge work before I drop the tank. I made a tester just for checking gauges and the circuit.
When the wire is disconnected, the circuit is open and the gauge could read either full or empty depending on which way its spring pulls the needle.
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Try contacting Ben, I don't know exactly where he is in the Netherlands but he's one of the best metalshapers and might be able to fix you up:
http://www.bensmetalshapingshop.nl/
Good guy, very slick.
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Be nice to have that intake on display.
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I recently acquired an original Fel Pro carburetor base gasket collection - the gasket between the carb & intake. It may be every gasket in Fel Pro's inventory dating back to the teens and up to the mid 70's, all in the original Fel Pro boxes. If you have an odd gasket you can't find I may be able to help as long as you have the Fel Pro number, it will take me a while to catalog them.
It looks like the gaskets will run from $5ish to 10 each.
Shoot me a PM with your needs and I'll see if I can help, Oj
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I'm huge Pink Floyd and LittleFeat fan and have an extensive collection of them, lots of swing music, lots of blues, but when I really want a boost i throw on Mountains' 1972 NY Eve recording at the Filmore East and crank it up starting with 'Don't look Around' thru a set of 12" Marantz in front with Bose 666 in the rear.
It takes powerful music to build powerful cars.
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Isn't that the chauffeurs' responsibility?
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Try the 'Cornbinders' site, they might be able to help. that Holley for them was special, the idle circuit is quite different, the carbs look pretty much the same as any other Holley 2bbl to a lay person, I feel that the IH Holley is an improvement over the original Holley and well worth your time to find the right one. they are rare.
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16 hours ago, AL1630 said:
I turned it in until it barely bottomed then turned out 1 1/4 turns. That seemed to help low speed driving around the neighborhood a lot, the engine was more responsive.
Yes, I read that in an earlier post, but, typically they are adjusted with the engine idling and when you ran each screw in to bottom did the motor stumble and try to die from lack of fuel? When you turn each screw in to bottom you are removing the idle fuel from the carb, at idle the only fuel the engine sees come past the idle screw and a small piece of the transfer slot (also part of the idle circuit). So if you bottomed out the idle screw with engine running and the engine did not die, then it is getting fuel from other than the idle circuit.
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About the idle screw adjustment? How did that go?
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If the engine is warm enough to drive for a short commute then its warm enough. Engn temp has little effect on mileage etc.
When you adjusted your idle richness and ran each screw in, did the motor stumble and try to die from lack of fuel? On each screw?
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Whenever they ask the year I tell them and then confide: 'I'm driving this one because I can't afford the new one'
You can see them trying to work it out.
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Same guy wanted me to send him a list of the parts I need for a Nash-Healey he was tearing apart, I asked him for the serial number of the one he was taking apart. Never heard back.
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The Yellow speedster with overhead valve conversion?
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I had a customer that would send me his '67 Travelall every spring and I'd fix all the stuff so he and his wife could enjoy it during the summer, I would do a good deal of confidence testing before sending it back to them and I really enjoyed driving it. It was all original, paint and everything, nobody had stuffed an 8 track in it or butchered it up. Worst thing about them was the electrical, it was all harnesses daisy chained together and even brand new things like the highcurrent draw rear window motor wouldn't work and you had to retract the window to open the rear tailgate. I had to add relays and sizeable wireing to get it reliable enough for them to use, they were older and I tried to really look out for them.
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1950 buick straight 8 missing
in Technical
Posted
I've had problems with regular plugs and modern gas w/alcohol, they work ok for a while and then start missing. I'd try a set of NGK XR5 with the 'projected' tip developed for modern fuels.