[need to know how to fix up cars]

Theres a lot more to 'old cars' than mechanical. You won't be able to take an old car and fix it with some wrench time, you'll have to learn to weld, use a milling machine or a lathe. Just to learn to shape sheetmetal can take years.

Theres lots of different things you'll need to know to do an old car, don't limit yourself when it comes to learning.

[1958 Buick Century]

Last one i worked on had a single 2bbl, i expected more exotic but it was like a Carter WCD 2bbl. Maybe a Roadmaster had 2 4bbl carbs.

[Carter carburetor parts]

I just purchased a huge inventory of old Carter carb parts from the late 20's thru the early 50's and have the original hard to find pieces, all in very good condition from the leadshot plugs to the chokeplate screws to buick starterswitch & bracket and thousands of gaskets.

If there is something you need give me a shout: ojh4@verizon.net i might have it.

Thanks, oj

[Carter carb parts availibilty]

I just wanted to let you guys know that i have purchased a huge inventory of original carter carburetor parts. If you guys need a particular rare part there is a good chance that i have it and many of the parts are in the original Buick parts bags.

Shoot me an email: ojh4@verizon.net if you need something.

To the mods, if this post is against your rules i understand. If you need to delete this how about giving me a headsup and advise me the proper way to inform everybody.

Thanks, oj

[Keyless entry problems]

The problems with the keyless entry seem to be caused by the households' security system. He would park the car in the front of the garage doors and there are 2 different types of security detection devices trained on that spot. If he goes to his home security computer and deactivates either of those devices the keyless entry works. His Regal has some of the same problems when it is parked in that spot.

I thought you guys might find this interesting.

[Keyless entry problems]

I did the search, but this is a little different.

Early in the day the keyless entry won't work. When later and warmer it works about 75% of the time.

If left unlocked at night and entered the next morning (keyless system not functioning) then driven a short distance the keyless system will work.

What do you guys think, time to rip up carpet etc and dig for grounds or is there a way to backfeed a ground into the circuit to verify a faulted ground splice.

Thanks oj

[BCM testing]

i don't know nothing about eproms, i haven't opened the BCM boxes. Should i be putting the original eprom into bcm#2 when i connect it? When the mileage display worked i noticed the miles were for the original car. Both boxes are from a 1990 model.

If i send them out for testing should i retain the original eprom? Well, that question looks moot unless i find a testing service.

Thanks, oj

[BCM testing]

I did the 'search' but nothing difinitve came up. Does any vender on here test the BCM module? I have 2 different modules and neither of them do the same thing in the car. I am beginning to wonder of both are bad.

Any reccommendations for testing?

[Electrical mind of its' own]

Those are 2 history codes, the B336H says there is IPC data loss (as when the display blanks out); B552H is the BCM memory has been reset as when i disconnected the battery. I don't see these as a 'fault' as much as confirmation of what is there.

[New strange remote issue.]

Another place to consider is a splice in the main harness routed under the passenger seat. The wires (at least in the '90) run from the receiver in a raceway and are spliced under the passenger seat in another lateral raceway to pick up the drivers' door and continue to the passenger door and thru connector C200 to the computors (this is the main harness). If there is any dampness water accumulates in this raceway and the splice eats itself up. Does your car leak? Check the floor under the passenger seat, see it the nuts that hold the seat track down have signs of rust. If so the raceway will have water in it.

But then, again it just might be gremlins too. I hope it is just a battery. oj

[Electrical mind of its' own]

I have been fixing electrical problems in this 90 reatta convertable and everything works as it should, there are no trouble codes. The IPC still shows intermittant 'electrical problem' and 'error' in the message window. I am ready to purchase another. But yesterday and today the IPC will light up with 'electrical problem' and 'error' without the key in the ignition, nothing. It will pop up for a bit and then off, just random (again, the car is just sitting there and the ignition key could be in my pocket and the IPC will power up). When the display is normal i check for error codes and it shows a B336H & B552H which is consistant with what i am seeing, but shows no fault.

I found and repaired a number of electrical problems in this car and documented them in a prior thread but i am at a loss as to what is going on now. Any thoughts?

['90 Reatta electronics]

The drivers door switch being fixed i concentrated on the courtesy lights and it was suggested to have alook at splice S305 because of the proximty of the splice to the devices that either worked or didn't work. As soon as i slid the passenger seat ahead to see how to remove it i knew i had struck paydirt. The carpet in back was soaked (this car is a convertable). I pulled the seat, interior panels and lifted the carpet to expose the raceway lateral for the main harness. I opened the raceway to find standing water saturating the wireing and contaminating splices. Little wonder the poor car had 'electrical problem' if anything it just shows the quality of the car that it didn't just burn up from a short.

I think there is quite a few of you that have followed my saga and it has a satisfied ending. You just don't quit and always look in one more place. Now about my knees...

Thanks, oj

['90 Reatta electronics]

I was wrong, the connectors are represented correct ie: color code & etcetc.

Yes i am still at it and have not thrown the mess off the bridge.

I have part of the problem in hand, the drivers' door handle switch is bad. The mounting bracket rivets (or mushed metal from pot metal casting of the door handle pocket) have loosened and the spring of the switch pushes the bracket (and switch) away from the door handle cam, the switch closes (it is a normally open switch)and sends a ground to the bcm as if you were opening the door.

I have yet to figure out the courtesy lighting problem but i got this [censored] by the short and curlies and it'll be working soon enough.

['90 Reatta electronics]

Still at it, think my knees will be crippled for life. I'm thinking the problem is in the courtesy light/switching circuitry. Probably broken wire/short in the flex part at the hinge. problem is that the scehatics and as built are different at connector 200 (as well as 201 & 216) and i am having a time identifying circuitry. The good news is that i havn't tossed this off the bridge...yet.

['90 Reatta electronics]

Thanks for the help, nice enough to know others are nearby. To answer some of the questions: The BCM came from a 90 Reatta, no i left the eproms (i have both boxes); I was not aware until today that the prob;em could be with the IPC, there is nothing in the Buick Manual diagnostics that would lead me in that direction, but i will have a looksee as soon as i ring out the circuits that i have tested to make sure i have not crossed wires in the different pin connectors.

I have looked for a scan/code reader but the ones i have checked on will read only the engine codes, if there is better devices out there point me in the right direction and i will get them.

One other problem that i didn't mention is that the 'error' is intermittant, there are times that i can almost enter the diagnostics befor the display gets all 'wiggy' on me and displays the 'error' message. And it will switch at random between 'error' and normal.

The diagnostics seem keyed on the fact that the courtesy lights won't work and is an indicator of issues within the computors - akin to dashlights being same as taillights so that when you don't have dashlites you'll know the tailights are out as well.

Will report back later, unless you hear of a particularly brutal suicide in the shenandoah valley like 'berryville man throws car off the shenandoah river bridge and jumps into drivers seat as car plummets to river...details on page 5'

Later, oj

['90 Reatta electronics]

Just getting more miserable. I tested and retested the CPS & BCM circuitry following the Buick manual. I doublechecked each test and took a break and retested, all three times i came up with the same answer: replace the BCM. I tooka 4hour ride and got another BCM, just now plugged it in and have the same results: 'Error' 'Electrical problem' Must be a Buick Breakfast i am having.

I can't read error codes because the display area has 'error' wirtten all over it. Anybody have any notion as to what is going on?

Thanks, oj

['90 Reatta electronics]

I received some sage advice from this forum earlier and am in the process of diagnosing the problem and wondering if anybody else is experienced these symtoms:

When opening door the security system goes off (no difference if opened with key, keyless or just lifting the latch); while driving the dash display goes blank and the message 'error' appears along with 'electrical problem'

The courtesy lights don't work.

I am thinking it is in the 'wake-up' signal process between the CPS and BCM and am in the process of testing the circuitry. Anybody else done this? Any advice/thoughts?

['90 Reatta electronics]

I have a '90 Reatta that the secuity system is being triggered. I have no information on this car, owners' manual- nothing. I have ordered a copy of the buick service manual but now i need to read the obd1 body codes. What is the best way to accomplish this?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give, i relly need it. oj, btw my email is ojh4@verizon.net thanks again.

[Chrome Plating]

Pauls Chrome, i have a bunch of stuff there now. Nice work.