KenHupp20
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Posts posted by KenHupp20
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Can you tell us what years ?
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If I remember correctly there was one disc in my Hupp clutch that went in by itself. That really does not answer your question though , sorry . Looks like a Hyatt roller bearing, I've had very good luck consulting with a bearing specialty company. Are you quite sure it needs replacing?
I must confess not an expert , but went thru some problems with my multiple disc clutch, kind of a no-man's land, just tryin' to help a bit. A real bummer not much info in that book.Have you tried any antique truck forums?
Ken
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Is the Id of the driver plate( photo #2 ) larger than the od of the retainer on the hub ?
If so I would suspect everything is ok.
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I am in awe.
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Thank you , talent and patience. Can you tell us more about your welding technique in the video ?
Ken
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I did a quick Google Book search and found a few references ;
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I'm curious about the brass ( ?) rod that goes from the dash to a crank arm located on the intake manifold . Is this a spark timing control ?
Nice looking car, please join the club ,and keep us posted here as well
Ken
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Flop, awesome work ! I'd love to see your video also . Ear bashing ? I think it would be applause.
Please keep posting .
Ken
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JBJ You may want to look into this method of repair.
LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. homepage: Cast iron crack repair, cast iron welding, thread repair inserts
no idea if it will do your job or not , just for you to consider
Ken
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One old trick is to check for heat at any of the connections.
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You can get the oil from West Marine Supply. There should be a fill hole somewhere.
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You mention "attack the oil system " before starting , are you planning on dropping the oil pan ? I recently did so on a '28 Model A doodlebug which had been sitting for about 30 years. Let me tell you pulling the dipstick is NO indicator of the condition inside !
What a swamp!
Ken
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Hi, Phil is correct. I started by wire brushing to remove any loose black in the background ( low) then wet sanded to get get highs about the finish I wanted ( @ 1500 grit ) the prep -sol , then shot black , wet sand( with block) to remove paint from the highs and clear ( I used laquer) . You may need a bit of touch up with a brush or Sharpie before clear.
I might also mention Phil did an outstanting job of reproducing nameplates for his Metz project. You will want to look at his thread as well . When making a "new" nameplate you can shoot the background color before removing the resist film, making it a bit easier.
Ken
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I use a cabinetmaker's scraper to get down to good clean wood. Have your file handy, it will need to be sharpened often. You can also make your own from an old hand saw blade.
Ken
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I second the motion to keep it original , and to clean it up and use as is .
Great find , enjoy .
Ken
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You might also try contacting : Larz Anderson Auto Museum
The information may be in the Rod Blood collection.
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They look wonderful ! I used Centari w/ gloss/hardner many years ago on my wood wheels and they still have that "wet look".
Did you use the 207 hardner in the epoxy ?
I might add Amen to your comments on Spar Varnish , it will move more with the wood, poly etc. will be too brittle.
Ken
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Very creative ! Windshield frame is a cow stall stanchion .
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Do you ,and the machinist think they are too far gone to simply lap them in for a better fit?
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McMAster-Carr p/n# 91858A831
qty. 50
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and there was the mechanic who was addicted to brake fluid..........
he said he could stop at any time !
Reconstruction of a '34 Chevy Master Coupe
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
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Amen indeed ! I had many days like that , they were much better than the days I went backwards to correct something.
Your project is looking very nice,thanks for sharing .
Ken