d2_willys
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Posts posted by d2_willys
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How and when does it overheat? If it pours out the overflow tube, but gauge is reading mid to mid-high and it runs cooler at slower speeds, then I agree with radiator blockage.
But if it continues to rise on the gauge, no matter what speed, I would then have a block test done at a radiator shop. This will check for exhaust in the coolant. Just because the valve job and head gasket replacement was done doesn't necessarily exclude exhaust gases in the coolant. Takes a few minutes do to and I would definitely have that done first before any radiator work is done.
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If you skipped a link on the timing chain, the usual symptoms are: Hard starting, and engine cranks faster than normal. A compression test will tell you something about the basic engine.
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Adjust the belt according to the manual. Then check for the ticking. The ticking may be a defect in the new belt. As far as the voltage drop going away with the new belt, well just remember that the alternator is a load on the belt when it has loads on it, so it cannot be slipping, this will do exactly what you say as far as voltage drop.
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Since you have static, that means that the audio amplifier section is good. The tuning section however sounds bad. I would think one of the tuning section tubes is bad. What you will need to do is to get the model of the radio and go to a good public library with SAMS PHOTOFACT folders. You will need to find the folder # via the PHOTOFACT index, that should be available online from Howard W. Sams.
After finding the folder number, go to the library and make copies of the pertinent schematic (in the folder) and look at the troubleshooting chart if one is provided. If not then there should be at least 5 tubes. The tuning section usually uses 6BA6, 6BE6, and 6AV6 tubes. If this is the case then replacement of the tubes may solve your issues. PM me if more info is needed.
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OK Buick People: I'm still doing my homework. As some of you know I have several 1960 (over 25) Buick parts cars, most with the trannys still in them. I need to figure out which other models will bolt up to the 1960 test chassis because having 4 or 5 test chassis is not in the cards. 1 is the limit.
Any ideas? I'm going to try to make this work! Mitch
If you think this will work then gopher it.
Since u r in Arnie land, the shipping costs may overwhelm you and your customers. IOW's, u will need to keep costs down.
I would say $500-$1K for the rebuilt trans, plus additional shipping. That would be what I would charge someone to rebuild one (if out of the car). If in the car add $250. These transmissions are not much to rebuild, compared to early hydramatics.
As mentioned before, there are many Dynaflow models. Don't even try the Flight pitch/triple turbine unit, as parts are scarce. And these units are far different from 2T dynaflows.
Just my .02.
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I had a thought today, is it possible to mate up a 401 to a 200 4R automatic transmission ? The 200 4R supposedly has a universal GM mounting pattern, but, how would the torque converter mount up ? Has anyone ever tried and done this successfully ? Any comments would be appreciated, thanks, Paul
Have you thought about ST or SP400 from a 64-66 Buick to the 401? What year is the 401? If it is 64-66, it is pretty easy.
The boys at Buick obviously were in love with their unique bell pattern. Why couldn't they have gone to the BOP pattern in 64 like they did in their new v-8's?
Well the previous post pretty much covers it all, Bendtsen's and I believe Wilcap make the adapters you will need for the 2004R.
I am doing some work on engine adapters for Buick engines. I am trying to round up dynaflow transmissions from Straight 8, early nailheads, mid nailheads and late nailheads, so that I can get the dimensions needed. After that I should be able to come up with schemes to adapt to BOP/Chevy and even some oldies but goodies transmissions.
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offer $300
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Dynaflow on all 1956 are the same length,but 1955 and earlier smal serie V8 has about 3 inch shorter Dynaflow than bigger ser.
Leif in Sweden.
Thanks Leif! Wasn't sure, guess they started in 56 with different length torque tube/driveshaft assemblies.:cool:
Do you know the actual lengths (bell housing engine face to torque ball retainer face) of the 55 and back Dynaflows, both short and long series cars? Also what about 53 and back Dynaflows, the pics behind straight eight look like the housing is very short.:confused:
Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Looking at several pics of Dynaflows from early to late 50's Buicks and have a question:
Do Dynaflows have various lengths of extension housings as pics seem to point out?
I asked a member about it last year and he told me (as far as 57's) that the Dynaflow was the same length for short and long wheelbase cars and that the torque tube and driveshaft were different lengths.:confused:
But does that apply for earlier years? Seems not to with pics I have looked at.:eek:
Appreciate any input on this subject.
Going to look at my Hollander's for part no.s
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Hi Guys,
Does anyone have a recommendation for a competent Dynaflow rebuilder or service man in the Southern California area?
We're having troupble with a '55 Special, it barely moves in drive. It goes better in low but when shifting up to drive, it slips badly again. What do you think?
Thanks, Lance
I would think there should be a competent rebuilder in SoCal area. The transmission is a very simple transmission in nature, but to get it out of the car is the main issue. The rear end must be partially removed from the vehicle in order to move the torque tube ball away from transmission and disengaging driveshaft. This extra labor may be expensive. I have seen various posts that have these transmission rebuilt anywhere from 1500 to 3000 dollars.
If it were me, I wouldn't hesitate to rebuild it myself, but then again I have rebuilt automatics before.
It sounds as if there is slippage in both DR and LO ranges, and probably in R. If they all slip then it sounds as if the front pump is going bad or the torque converter is shot. I would try a pressure test first to tell how bad the front pump is. If the line pressure is good, then it probably is the torque converter (if it slips in all ranges). If it only slips in DR, then it probably is the direct drive clutch pak, or seals around the annular piston that applies the clutch.
I have a 57 Dynaflow that is complete, but I can only let some of the parts go, as I am in the process of doing some adapters for other engines.
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Nice pick up! U scored bigtime! Got more pics?
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looking for a coupe or convertible to restore
Should move this thread to buy/sell category.
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Welcome 57 Special, and Special 55 too. To Special 55, Sorry to hear that you haven't had follow up from the BCA. When did you send in your app? I 'd be glad to call the BCA office managers to see what they know, if you want to send me your name and address. If you don't want to post it here send a private message.
Meanwhile 57 Special, I am astonished that U-haul let you rent a trailer for this car. Seems they are suddenly aware of weight limits and looks like in my area they replaced all the nice sized car trailers with some only fit for Smart Cars.
But your car is awesome. The 57's are sweet. Had a convertible Special when I was in college. Showed 55K on the clock and I got it for the huge sum of $30.00. Sure wish I had it today.
Good luck with this project and don't worry about asking any questions. Most times it's better to ask before you take something apart than after you take it apart.
Yep U-haul is getting really serious about what you can tow with their auto transporters. If you are not towing something like an old beatle or Honda or something compact, forget renting auto transporter. I am planning on buying a transporter or perhaps a flatbed. Funny thing, U-haul will rent a tow dolly for bigger vehicles, which to me is far worse as far as safety.:eek:
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Vapor lock: Hmmm, did anyone mention the OCTANE RATING? I have a 53 Merc with original flathead, that purrs like a kitten and runs great, but is prone to vapor lock due to the fuel pump being on top of engine (stupid ford idea). I drove the car back from Boise, Idaho back in 2006 and experienced vapor lock like never before. The car ran great from Boise to Jackson, WY. Then after getting down to I-80, had nothing but problems. Seems the octane there was 85 and the car vapor locked 5 times going east on the interstate. I finally got to Colorado and the outside temperature finally went down into the 80's. The next day it vapor locked again, then I put in some 87 Octane gas (probably without ethanol) and the vapor lock quit all together. Seems the octane rating, the higher it is, the better the vehicle runs and vapor lock is less to happen.
Funny thing, my 57 F-100 did almost the same thing on a hot day in Colorado Springs. I believe the octane rating has alot to due with the vapor lock issues. Ethanol does too.
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Doug: Do you have any side panels (the trim where the word SUPER is) you don't need and would sell? If so what would u sell them for? If not, know anybody that has some? I was thinking of using them for the bumper panels.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dei</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK, one more picture that needs to confirm measurements. </div></div>
thanks a bunch Doug. Really appreciate all your work and the pics. I have the right side peeling chrome off the piece (the previous owner chromed over the stainless steel pieces) and I think I will take the two down to a chrome shop and have them stripped of the chrome. Then I will try and duplicate the stripes. A previous post had me getting some drafting tape and using as a mask then painting the matte finish over the stainless. I think that will work just fine.
Again, much thanks!
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pete Phillips</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Buy a roll of thin, mechanical drawing tape (plastic or vinyl tape) at a drafting supply store or blueprint store. About 3/8" width is right. Stick this stuff on where you don't want paint to adhere. Then, paint the whole thing with black paint. Remove the tape as soon as paint dries but don't wait for hours, as the black paint will eventually migrate under the tape if you leave it on too long. The result, when I did it this way, was amazing!
Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 </div></div>
Thanks Pete. How many stripes are there on those two plates?
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dei</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Good morning,
Just a quick response to your request. I believe I have the two pieces you are asking about somewhere in the garage that are off one of the bumpers but will have to look. Once I locate will post a pic or two to show better how they look. I'll try and get it done this weekend, Doug. </div></div>
Great, thanks alot Doug
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Need to know how those stripes at the bottom of the rear bumper are put on. Are they just a form of pin striping? Anyone out there that knows how they go on, the help would be appreciated.
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Those GM (Great Minds, lol) nutcakes always throw away the leaders in performance, such as Oldsmobile (modern short stroke Rocket engine, hydramatic) and Pontiac (GTO, Firebird) for Cadillac, and Buick, and of course Cheepvy. Now they never said anything about tossing GMC trucks, why not? Same as Cheepvy! So you are left with alot of ESCALADEDAA'S and other highly low mileage glitter boxes. Buick IMO will suffer the next death. Cadilet will be the only name from GM soon. Hmmm, GM = sure doesn't mean gas mileage does it???
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: First Born</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Besides which converting to electric is more than twice as expensive as rebuilding.
Ben </div></div>
Don't think so, especially if you know the right people!
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dei</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are right that it is too bad not having the FP in the cars and I have heard that those do indeed make a difference with better off the line performance but can tell you that given enough time (ha,ha) even my Special still has the capability of doing over 100. Had a long stretch of new highway nearby some years ago that wasn't open to the public yet and after putting on new radial tires plus ball joints wondered if there was much left in her. Now, bearing in mind how accurate the speedometer is she still rolled up to 105 with a bit more pedal left till coming to my senses! I've never seen that much red on that speedo since and thank my luck stars no police were out that Sunday morning.
Both cars tend to leak / seep when not used for some time and have come to just keep on hand extra fluid and park over spare cardboard which helps keep the floor clean. Has anyone tried a product from Lucas that is for keeping trans seals in good order? I put their oil additive in my GMC 1/2 ton (V6) which has over 150000 miles and she does not burn any oil or noisy at all. Wondered how the trans stuff would be for the VP seals?
As to the bumper, while it was not dented or rusted still would only be considered driver quality but still a good buy even back then. I had collected spare bumper parts for the Special and had them re chromed about five years ago and without purchase costs had about 1600 Canadian in it but is ready to bolt on when I get to the body & paint.
I really wish I had the ability like some of you guys to get at your cars to get them done. Seems looking back I've spent more time collecting stuff than doing them up. So much to do, so little time. </div></div>
Can you tell me how they did those stripes on the back bumper (on the roadmaster)? Was it some stick on stuff or did they actually have ridges like the side moldings have? I have tried to get better pics from the guy that is selling a roadie on ebay and he keeps sending me wide shots which do me no good. My back bumper needs rechroming, unless there are two plates which have the stripes on them. If they are separate plates, I think I can get them separately chromed and striped. Perhaps you can shoot some pics of the back bumper stripes from your roadie. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dei</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Regarding the trany's: Both the Ltd`s and Roadmaster had the VP Dynaflows when I bought them. The curious thing about the Ltd`s is they both have the complete factory system for the air ride system EXCEPT for the bags. The (now) parts car levelers were in disrepairable shape when Dad got the car and other than the compressor power steering unit and height control there is nothing left. However, that car he was able to put on the highway for two years going to work 55 miles each way until the universal went out. That`s when I wanted to get my license and with his help together learned about enclosed drive shaft systems. Ahhhh the good old days, bought a used complete rear end for 25.00 only to find it came out of a Special (too narrow) but the universal was the same so..... a few skinned knuckles later on the road I was. That car had about 85,000 miles on it and showed 142000 when I stopped driving it.
The other Ltd again has what look like repairable parts (no Bags) but not sure from what I have read that I want to go there as it was prone to problems and hence the recall or replacement back to coil springs.
Short story about Arizona and Buicks: My sister went to ASU staying in Tempe. Flew out one Fall to visit and went to the local bone yards (south of Phoenix I believe) looking for a rear bumper for the Ltd. Found a 58 Roadmaster 2dr with a 1969 license plate and with an excellent driver quality bumper for the sum of 100.00! They handed me the wrenches and said good luck! Being from the rust belt (Canada & salt) I thought is this worth it. Dry Arizona, Dahh no problem! You should have seen me taking it back to my sister`s apartment. She drove down from home (Canada across the river from Detroit) in her 1960 Corvair which I had borrowed to get this bumper. The only way I could get it in the car was to roll down the back windows and hang it out the windows (too tired to take it all apart). Can`t imagine what the guys behind me thought was going on when they came upon this creation.
Found a pic when I had to relocate three of the cars in 1990. The red is the Special, the black is the good Ltd and the front of the other is the Roadmaster. </div></div>
So you have the VP dynaflows in all of them (PNDLR). Too bad you don't have the correct transmissions in the Limited and Roadie (PRNDG). Mine is original, and even though it leaks a little transmission fluid, it still will take the VP dynaflow in the 1/4 mile.
Sounds like you got a steal on the bumper. Mine needs rechroming, but is otherwise fine.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jeffborosky</div><div class="ubbcode-body">D2 Willys- I am in Exeter, P.A. near scranton. I am not sure if it will fit or not. I looked at the CARS, Inc. Website and found the following. Please do your homework, maybe call them and ask them in person, but it looks to me like it will fit as per the below description. I CANNOT guarantee it will fit, although for your sake, I hope it does, since it is a steal of a deal. Let me know. Any other questions, please let me know or call me (570) 895-6635, ask for Jeff, M-F 7:00A.M.-4:00 P.M.
1957-1958 SUPER, ROADMASTER & LIMITED 2-DR. HT & CONVERTS
This item is NOS
NOS 4687085
10.027 $ 437.75 GLASS, WINDSHIELD. CLEAR 1957 SPEC & CENT, MODS. 41, 43, 48, 63; 1957-1958 ALL WAGONS. SMALL FOG
NOS 4687092
10.027 $ 1131.25 GLASS, WINDSHIELD. TINTED 1957-1958 SUPER, ROADMASTER & LIMITED 2-DR. HT & CONVERTS
</div></div>
Jeff: I was just up that way a couple of weeks ago, but in Pittsburgh area. Is there a way of paying for the windshield and you holding it till Fall Carlisle? Or would you prefer an earlier pickup date, perhaps July 4th weekend? I will try and call you and we can discuss details. In the meantime I will check the numbers out in my flat rate manual (if in there). I believe they are the same.
WTB 1959 Olds 371 complete engine
in Oldsmobile - Buy/Sell
Posted
Looking to buy a complete 1959 Oldsmobile 371 engine which is in rebuildable condition or runs. Don't want overbored to .060! Also not interested in 57 or 58 371's. Would consider a 1960 371.