d2_willys
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Posts posted by d2_willys
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I'm switching out my 55's generator for a GM single-wire alternator. I am looking for information about how to retain the gas pedal starter functionality. I found this article and the guy references AACA members as being helpful, but ultimately the article winds up with "I haven't done this yet." I e-mailed him awhile back and he didn't have anything to add.
Here is the article:
"Push Gas To Start" with an Alternator
I'm ok with the rest of the conversion - how do I retain the gas pedal starter functionality? Is the speculative re-wiring described here correct? Has anybody else done this?
This may or may not work. Depending on the alternator, the field (or #1) must be able to supply a ground to the starter relay while trying to start the engine. If this does not happen then you will need some sort of other mechanism to accomplish this. Take a voltmeter and set on ohms and (with no wires connected to alternator) measure across #1 of alternator to ground. If it does not measure a low resistance (2 ohms or less) then it will not work.
The other thing noted is that the way the starter relay is wired to the alternator might cause the idiot light to not light if the alternator is not grounded via #1 terminal.:confused:
Reasoning behind my message is that the field winding is grounded via the internal regulator. Between them, there may not be enough current capability to allow starter coil to get engaged when trying to start. :mad:
Another approach is to wire in a NEW relay from (relay coil) #1 wire to ground. Then connect one of the contacts to ground and the other to the starter relay wire that is going to the #1 terminal right now. The relay coil is much easier on the voltage regulator.:cool:
In the original diagram, the generator armature grounds the starter relay till the generator starts to charge. (The armature can handle way more current than the internal voltage regulator inside the alternator):eek:
PM me and I will send you the new relay wiring diagram.
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I have a complete running motor ,and transmission all still in car. The car still runs and drives body is mostly shot though. I also have some glass and emblems. The wife says I have to much yard art its got to go.
(916)519-1302
Price and location?
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I rebuilt my Lincoln Treadlevac unit, and used NEATS FOOT OIL on the leather seal. Available from any western wear store.
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Dynaflows have a breather tube that comes out of the extension housing. I would verify that this is clear and functioning. If the transmission doesn't breathe it will leak anywhere it can.
(A little compressed air through the tube will work, you will need a small piece of rubber hose to accomplish this, as the breather tube is metal.)
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Just sold a remanufactured one for $724. Hey Centurion, is that too much to spend?:eek:
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Curious why someone didn't bring up that the Ultramatic also had a direct drive clutch in the torque converter. Does the words lock up converter mean anything. Packard did this when others were messing with their converters and gearboxes. Just look at Buick and their converter fiascos. Packard had some very good ideas, but by 1950 knew their doomed future was starting to happen. (Take a que from Tucker).
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I wish..
The brake booster rod sticks out of the hole about a foot, and won't allow a socket to go over it.
The wiper assembly might not be too bad. It is just under the upper dash. The speedometer/instrument cluster is a bit of a bear. I believe you have to remove the water temp sender from the drivers side head and fish it back through the firewall, since it is permanently attached to the temp gauge. The oil pressure sender is removable from the back of the speedo cluster. There are a thousand wires and bulbs that plug into the back of it.
Thanks for the info on the speedo and wiper assembly access. My work is cut out for me! As far as the brake booster, well there may be some weird wrench at some of the hardware and farm impliment stores. I am going to take a gander, perhaps at lunch today.:cool:
Hey, I just noticed that u r in St. Charles, MO. My wife and I stayed there earlier this year while driving the 58 out from Ohio. Next time I go through there I would like to stop and see the limited. (PM me with your info)
You have the variable pitch dynaflow (PNDLR) in it, right? Mine has the original Flight pitch dynaflow (PRNDG) and is still going strong. Still keep on thinking it will shift, but then I remember how it works.
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Can't u just use a 1 3/4 socket? I haven't been under my 58 dash yet, but will soon as I have to replace the left wiper assembly, and probably take the speedo assy out. Perhaps I can wish these parts out and back in? LMAO!
PS: Should be able to find the KM tool on EBAY, in the next few 100 years!
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Jeff: They look to me to be compatible.
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You go that far, putting in the o-ring, then do the front seal too. Rule of thumb: whenever you have the transmission out of the car change the front seal (and rear main seal on engine). Then you are good to go for a long time.
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Every once and while the starter clashes with the flywheel when I attempt to start the car (401 - Invicta). It always happens when the car is warm. I would like to change the starter and put in a mini-starter. Two questions:
1) Does the starter drop staight down when the bolts are removed? In other words no obstructions such as the exhaust manifold.
2) Are the mini-starters an easy install and are they reliable?
Thank you
I think the starter bolts to the bell housing, so after removing the attaching bolts, you will need to pull the starter away from the bell housing then drop. So if the starter back end is near any exhaust, etc. then chances are those interfering pieces will need to be removed.
Don't know about the mini-starters being available for nailheads.
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Nice car, would get one but wife says: NO MORE CARS, UNLESS WE MOVE TO TEXAS AND GET LAND WITH A HUGE METAL SHED FOR MY CARS!
I will have one someday, but the Dynaflow must go! Love the straight eight, good engine as long as it has twin carbs, fuel starvation on end cylinders is not good.
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Pics are great, wow a Tucker convertible! Did they make convertibles or is this some mod job? What was the serial # on the Tucker. Better be 1-50!
Thanks for the pics. Someday I will make it up there, perhaps next year!
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Hello everyone, I have a 1953 special with a straight 8 and I was trying to get it running after it as sat awhile and for some reason at first it would crank over but it would not stay running. So I figured it would take awhile for gas to get to the carberator from setting so I kept pouring a little gas gas in the carb and it would start and run for a few seconds until the gas would burn out and then stop. Then it just stopped cranking at all, now it wont do anything. I took the ingnition switch out and put a test light to it and when I turn key on to the first position I get power to all three terminals and then to the second position to the right nothing. Can anyone tell me how to chase down and figure out my ignition/starting problem? Thanks for your help, oldrides
Sounds like you now have two problems.
Let's start at the starting problem. Do you turn the key to crank the engine or is this a Buick accelerator start type? It sounds like a key type, so we will start with that. There should be a purple (or something like that) coming from the ignition switch and goes to the neutral safety switch. From the neutral safety switch another wire should go to the starter solenoid.
What I would do is to try and turn the ignition switch to start, while moving the transmission lever between P and N. It might be possible that the neutral safety is going bad. If it starts doing this then the neutral safety is the problem. If still no go then:
Jumper the battery wire terminal at the ignition switch to the starter wire
terminal. Does it crank, if so bad ignition switch. No crank:
Then jumper a wire from the non-grounded battery lead to the neutral safety switch terminal going to starter solenoid. If it cranks then neutral safety is bad or out of adjustment. If it does not crank, then move jumper wire to the solenoid terminal with wire from neutral safety switch. Cranks - yes, wire from neutral safety to solenoid is bad. If still no crank then solenoid/starter is bad.
If the car cranks from the accelerator, then check the start relay, and it's wiring. One of the leads from this relay will be going to the generator. This wire grounds the relay through the armature of the generator. You could have a bad generator and that will not allow start relay to energize and crank the engine.
As far as the engine not running:
Make sure there is plenty of good gas in tank.
Remove fuel line going to carb. Then crank engine till fuel comes out, then reattach. If no fuel is pumped out, then fuel pump/filter could be bad. If you can get fuel into the carb bowl, then fill it up and start engine. This will give the engine more time to pump fuel from tank.
Hope this helps
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I have three things left now-
1) I have 7 new bulbs, I tried 3 by connecting a neg to one little tit on the side, used the test light ( carefully) and touched the positive to the center of the bulb(s) . Test light on, bulb not on- All three the same,
Maybe I'm unlucky, test the rest.
2) I had a Optima battery I'm using ( 6V) . Have the trickle charger on tonight
3) I'm going tomorrow, to take a bulb out of my 48 sedanete, and test that with the bench test.
I should know something tomorrow.
Thanks,
be in touch
Sandy
First things first. Take the socket and bulb and connect directly to the battery and see if it lights up. If not, then center lead going to pigtail button is probably open and not connected. (could be the bulb center doesn't stick out far enough for connection. Other thing is the socket grounding the bulb. Since you have new socket I doubt the ground is the problem.
Now one last thing. The test light will light when doing the test you mentioned because the bulb under test draws more current than the test light, making the test light have more voltage across it. If that does what you say, then the bulb is good, otherwise the test light wouldn't light. Bulb good, now check bulb/socket in a similar manner. Connect to socket metal and test light to pigtail and see if the test light lights. If not you should have a good idea as to what to look for.
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Is this odd or normal
If I clip the positive from the battery, to the wire that touches the base of the light bulb in the pigtail connection ( light bulb socket) I'm talking the fender light as an example , then connect the negative to the bolt that holds the fender light on the fender, then to the neg side of the battery, shouldn't the bulb light up ? I'm making a full circuit
I've tried this with a test light as the neg connection and the test light goes on but not the ( new ) bulb or any other bulb.
Yes, 6 V I thought this would be a simple thing . Am I missing something here ?
Thanks, Sandy
OCM
Is this pigtail still connected to wiring harness? If so there may be more in the circuit than you think and causing no voltage at the bulb.
First check bulb, then connections. If need be, disconnect pigtail and apply positive voltage to the pigtail directly. You need to be more specific as to where this bulb is in the wiring of the car (function).
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Jeff: Do you have the left wiper pivot arm assembly? The shaft on mine has broken from the bracket that goes to the motor drive arm. This pivot assembly is the one that the wiper arm mounts to.
Look forward to your response.
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d2_Willys,
About the panels, sorry but that is one of the few things I do not have extra. Sounds like a good idea though. Might have to take into consideration the thickness to get it bolted against the backing panel and bumper ends. Will keep an eye out should something show up. Enjoy your Holiday Weekend, Doug.
Doug: I have been working on the 58 Roadie and found the left wiper shaft has broken away from the bracket going to the motor link. Do you have one of these assemblies that I could buy from you?
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I think the mentioned rear seal is leaking. Can anyone tell me what a normal cost is to replace, and what all is involved to do so.
Thanks
Rocket 88
It shouldn't be too much trouble if you can get the oil pan off fairly easy. IIRC the Olds pans are easy to remove with the idler arm removed from the frame. This will allow the crosslink to be dropped enough to get the pan off.
After getting pan off, the next thing is to drop the oil pump then the rear main bearing cap. The rear main seal is a wick (or rope) type. The seal in the bearing cap is no biggie to replace, but the block side seal is a little more complicated. Easiest way is lower the remaining main bearing caps enough to get the top seal out of the block and to feed the replacement back in.
Put some pliable sealer on the seal block side and feed the block seal in and around the crank.
Then tighten the loosened caps back up till torque is applied and stop. Trim the block seal flush with the mating surface. Roll the bearing cap seal into the seal groove. Then trim the seal flush with the bearing cap mating surface.
Put RTV or pliable sealer on mating surface of bearing cap and install bearing cap to block. Now go back and torque all main caps to proper torque. Install oil pump.
Install oil pan gaskets and pan. Reinstall idler link.
Start engine and inspect for leaks.
Most of this process is covered in motors manuals.
Good luck
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If the panel is ok and the fuse prong is just missing a tab, then you can buy these replacement parts. Check with Keystone Electronics.
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Ed Strain of Florida does most of these rebuilds.
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Rhode Island wiring may be what you are looking for.
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If you want to have me look at the radio and give you a quote I would be more than willing to get it up and running. I am currently working on a 54 Chrysler radio from one of the HAMBERS. I am reasonable as far as price. PM me if interested. Usually $50-100 to fix them up.
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Still have the complete engine for sale?
58 Buick windshield wipers
in Buick - General
Posted
You are correct that the 57 and 58 Buicks have an oil/vacuum pump, but I don't recall that vacuum source having it's own reserve tank. The reserve tank under the fender is for power brake reserve if the engine quits. I would think that you could get a vacuum amplifier from some 70-90's cars at a pick your part yard and use that. My 58 needs the left wiper mechanism replaced (which I have replacement part) but haven't had time to work on it.
Got to get it done by July for the Buick meet.