d2_willys
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Posts posted by d2_willys
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Lots of good old stories. We used to drive in through the exits, with the aid of a brick or two, which would be sandwiched up to the wrong way tire spikes. This would allow us to drive over the spikes and into the drive in. One of the times, we did this and it started to rain, so we went to the "Good Old Snack Bar" and got rain checks. What a deal!
One time I snuck in 10 or so people in a camper van, and all they did was lay on the floor. The cashier didn't even bother to ask or check for other people in the van and I paid for one, and was on my way. The trunk thing worked too!
One of my brother's friends tried to drive off with the speaker still in the window, and ended up pulling the pole out of the ground and still had to give up, as the cable was so strong it would not break.
BTW: I believe the sound system in the driveins were like PA systems in stores. They used 70.7 Volt signals to send the sound out to the speakers, and then the speaker would have a transformer to reduce the signal down to speaker impedance.
So if you are trying to hook one up using the original cable you might have a problem. Unless you have the 70.7V sound source.
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I use the old dome light test. Start car, turn on headlights and high beams, heater fan, anything to load up battery, and of course the dome light. Now rev engine and watch dome light, it should get brighter. This will tell you if the generator/alternator is doing anything at all as far as charging.
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If you decide to go with a 12V system you might want to remember that the only year starter drive that will work for you is 1953. In 1954 Olds changed the tooth count on their flywheels, so the later starter drives will not work for you.
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hi jonny88, these are very good transmission, it sound like to me, what should be done first is, to have the old fluid drain, the torus member too (fluid coupling), have the pan drop, and have the sediments check, and clean up the pan and the pick up screen. new pan gasket and fluid. you won't need any tranny snake oil. what part of ohio are you in ?, charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.
Agreed, do the fluid change first. Then check the TV rod adjustment for proper settings. It almost sounds like the TV rod is set too tight and is trying to "hunt" during the shifting process.
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two things that would be good to inspect are the hi accumulator seals and gasket, and the direct drive clutch seal. The accumulator is something that can be repaired in the car. the clutch seal will require removal of trans.
As was suggested, I would check direct drive pressure, which I believe is available at the hi accumulator.
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Hi guys, The car is finally paid off and I am ready to start my restoration on the 1951 Oldsmobile Super 88 that I talked about in other post.
The first item that I want to deal with is the electrical system. The car currently is converted to 12 volts but I think it was only done for the starter but the strange part is that the headlights and one tail light work, everything else including all gauges but amp do not work, turnsignals dont work, heater does not work, horn does not work, radio does not work, wipers dont work.
If you guys could help me I would greatly appreciate it, I dont know were to start.
I did already buy a 6volt original AC Delco Generator correct for the time period, but dont know what else I will need to get aside from the 6v bulbs for electrical.
Thanks
Jon
1951 Oldsmobile Super 88
A lot of times the person doing the conversion to 12V does not change 6V bulbs, and they will burn out eventually. Same goes for horn relay. As I recall, the oil pressure gauge is mechanical, therefore this should work. The ammeter doesn't matter as it is current sensitive and not voltage sensitive. The fuel and temp gauges are 6V and might have been fried.
The heater motor may have been burned up, or possibly the heater fan switch is burned up.
Wipers are vacuum if still original and have no electrical connections.
Turn signal flasher is probably gone too. Radio vibrator probably got cooked too or the fuse is blown.
I would get a diagram and go through bulbs, flasher, and fuses first and see what you come up with. If you do this first, you can get a handle on this and restore at least the electrical.
Last bit of advice, check the ignition coil and see if a ballast resistor is installed. If no resistor and a 6V coil, then the engine probably doesn't run to good either. You won't need the ballast resistor with a 6V coil.
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I have a '64 Olds 98. It has an old 455 Rocket Engine. We have no idea what its worth. Any ideas?
Supply us a picture for verification of 394 or 455 engine. They are very easy to determine.
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I liked the underdash color light organ back in the late 60's/early 70's. Wolf whistles were good too.
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I have one of those windshield antennas in my 76 Olds, it works great! What is the beef??
Don
F.M. signals would jump when going under a bridge, etc. This was on a new 71 Camaro. If they were so great why did they go back to stick antennas, and why didn't other manufacturers continue to go with stick antennas? Being so close to the distributor on Chevys didn't help matters.
Doesn't help when you get a broken windshield, you have to get another one like it.
My 78 Skyhawk had a stick antenna. Windshield antenna lasted all of what 6-7 years!
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You are thinking of the aluminum 215 cu in V8, which shared basic architecture with the V6. GM sold the 215 to British Leyland in 1967, and it stayed in production through 2006. BL never had the V6. AMC had the rights from 1968 through 1974, when GM bought it back in response to Oil Crisis #1.
Thanks Joe: I thought AMC owned the rights till GM bought it back.
Thought of another wonder blunder: GM WINDSHIELD ANTENNA
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I don't think that AMC owned the rights to the former Buick V6 in 1975. They would have gotten them with the Jeep purchase in what? 1972? and then they started putting their own sixes in Jeeps, so they didn't need the V6 and sold it. I thought they sold the rights and tooling to British Leyland. They were planning to use the rotary being developed by GM but GM couldn't solve the technical problems and gave up on it.
The I-6 in the Pacer is only a problem when you need to remove the rocker arm cover. You need to roll the engine to a certain point where the rocker arms don't interfere with the removal. Everything else is accessible. From inside the car you don't notice the engine set-back. The Pacer sold really well the first year. Then sales began to taper off.
Pacerman: I really don't know that exacts of the V-6 scenario, but AMC used alot of other companies components, (mopar solid state ignition, harrison radiator, autolite starter and alternator, even a British Laycock de Normanville overdrive unit) so why couldn't AMC have bought the Buick V-6 GM and used it in the Pacer? From what I remember, the inline was a lot of engine in the Pacer engine bay. The AMC inlines are bulletproof bottom ends, not so much for upper ends. You mention the valve cover removal, well I had to bend some of the cowling up to get my brother's valve cover off his 75 Gremlin.
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I have to disagree with nearly every post here (yeah, big surprise...
)Edsel? That may have been a styling flop, but it wasn't an "invention".
Vega engine? The basic engine design was fine - Porsche and Mercedes both have used the same linerless aluminum cylinder design with silicon carbide. The flop with the Vega was the decision to use a die cast block (for cost savings) that had the cylinders completely unrestrained at the top. Once the head was torqued, the cylinders deflected, leading to the rapid wear. Even when liners were installed, they still wore out prematurely. The fix, as developed by Vega road racers, was to weld aluminum blocks between the tops of the cylinders and the deck surface, then remachine the deck. That stabilized the block and fixed the premature wear problem.
The 4-6-8 engine? The problem was lack of computer horsepower to run it. Many of today's cars have displacement on demand with no problems.
Oldsmobile diesel? The flaw was the lack of a water trap in the fuel filter, which led to subsequent problems when owners didn't follow maintenance schedules. Besides, the DX block makes a bulletproof gasoline engine.
Seat belt interlock? Well, blame Washington, not Detroit for that one!
Engine removal to change plugs? If you're referring to the V8 versions of the Chevy Monza, the "engine removal" was actually just the removal of one motor mount bolt and the jacking of the motor a few inches to get clearance. Admittedly not ideal, but nowhere near "removal". Ever tried changing plugs on a FWD car with a transverse V6?
Corvair? What was wrong with the Corvair?
Talking cars? OK, I'll give you that one!
Hmmm, it only took the Corvair boys 5 years to fix a questionable rear suspension. The front suspension was fine except for the understeer. The engine was a good idea, but that fan belt orientation and the constant oil leaks were troublesome.
The Vega engine was a design flaw and was never addressed. Instead the boys at Chevy ended up going to a cast iron engine in the last years of the Vega and Astre.
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Gotta disagree with you on the Pacer. Obviously you have never driven one. Styling, I'll admit was a lttle ahead of it's time. The wagons looked better though. The ride is like a big car. They are roomy and had rack and pinion steering with most U.S. cars did not. The wheel wells are made for today's low profile tires and 16-in or better size wheels. Vacuum wipers had their place too. Infinitely adjustible in speed. And they work Ok with the wiper motor and the booster in the fuel pump are both healthy.
I believe 75 was the first year of the Pacer. When I saw one in a dealer, the first question to the pinhead salesman was: Where the hell is the V-6 that AMC jeep owned the rights to? Instead the guy says that AMC was planning on using a rotary engine. When that fell through they went back to the their inline engine. This put 1/3 of the engine in the passenger compartment, with virtually no room to service the back of the engine.
Could of had a really decent car if they had put the old Jeep V6 in it. Instead they sold the tooling back to GM and GM went on to produce thousands of 3.8L V6's. And soon AMC was gone!
Vacuum wipers, did not know that, better off that way, thought they went out with the early Broncos.
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Yes and no. The boxes I believe are compatible, but the converter and bell housing are not. The 322 bell pattern is different than the 364. It is a larger bell pattern. The converter I believe is bigger in nature too.
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Air suspension in 1958 GM models.
Flightpitch/triple turbine dynaflows, and Chevy Turboglide.
Corvairs!
vacuum wipers
Vega aluminum engine
AMC PACER
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From Wikipedia....
1961-63 Buick Skylark
In the fall of 1960, General Motors introduced a trio of new compact cars for the 1961 model year that shared the same chassis, engines (with some differences between the three models), and basic sheet metal, although each had unique front and rear styling and differences in exterior and interior trim. It shared the same chassis as the Pontiac Tempest and the Oldsmobile F-85. (The similarities between the Skylark and the Pontiac Tempest would play a key role in the plotline of the film My Cousin Vinny.)
Introduced in the middle of the 1961 model year and based on the basic Buick Special two-door sedan (also referred to as a coupe), the 1961 Buick Special Skylark had unique Skylark emblems, taillight housings, lower body side moldings, turbine wheel covers, and a vinyl-covered roof. It also featured a plush all-vinyl interior with bucket seats as an option.
The basic 1961 Buick Special came standard with a 215 cubic-inch, all-aluminum block, V8 engine with a 2-barrel carburetor that produced 155 hp (116 kW) at 4600 rpm. The 1961 Buick Special Skylark came standard with a version of this same engine (optional on other Specials) that used a higher compression ratio and a 4-barrel carburetor to produce 185 hp (138 kW).
For the 1962 model year, the Buick Skylark became a model in its own right, instead of being a subseries of the Special. The 1962 model used the same basic sheet metal as the 1961 models, but was available in two new body styles: a two-door convertible coupe (shared with the Special and Special Deluxe models) and a two-door (pillarless) hardtop coupe that was unique to the Skylark. Tuning of the 215 cubic-inch V8 increased power to 190 hp (140 kW) at 4800 rpm.
The 1963 Buick Skylarks used the same chassis and wheelbase as the previous 1961 and 1962 models, but adopted new sheet metal that featured boxier styling. Length was increased by five inches to 193 in (4,900 mm), and the 215 cubic-inch V8 generated 200 hp (150 kW) at 5000 rpm. The 1963 Skylark was available as a two-door convertible coupe or a two-door (pillarless) hardtop coupe. The 1963 Buick Special shared most sheet metal with the Skylark, but was available as a 2-door pillared hard top, a four dour sedan, a convertible and a station wagon. And the wagon being vary rare today, with the four speed T-10 trans, along with Engine choices, were a 198 cubic-inch V6 with 2-barrel carburetor, a 215 cubic-inch V8 with two-barrel carburetor, and a 215 cubic-inch V8 with 4-barrel carburetor. Transmission choices were a 'three on the tree' manual transmission, a floor-shifted Borg-Warner T-10 4-speed manual, and a two-speed automatic. The two speed "Dual Path Turbine Drive" automatic was a Buick design and shared no common parts with the better known Chevrolet Power-Glide transmission.
The 198 "Fireball V6" was first available in the 62 model Specials and Skylarks.
Dual Path drive was available from 61-63 on Specials and Skylarks.
Be careful with Oldsmobile 215 parts as some of these parts (cylinder heads I believe) are different than the Buick 215.
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Don't worry about the leakage, that's a feature built into all dynaflows!
Dynaflow leakage is common, the engineers must have known this thing would leak all the time, that is why it is called dynaflow! Flows dynamically out of anywhere it can. Even my Flight pitch leaks!
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It wasn't just you Bama's.
Yes, Martians, have landed and re-arranged my computer keyboard. I have corrected the keyboard. :mad:
Maybe there is ling fennel?:eek:
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Cigarette lighter goes in the right hole, ignition in the left. That is right from my 54 NY deluxe. Shows this in the owners manual too.
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Pour Dexron III trans fluid down the ling fennel. Don't use Dexron 4 or 5.
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I had a couple questions, the first of which is kind of embarassing:
1. Where do I add tranny fluid? I can seem to find it anywhere. (Including the shop manual)
2. I saw somewhere in another post, someone being warned off of Dexron VI. What's the story there?
By the way, it's an 89'. Thanks in advance!
If it is anything like my daughter's old 98 Sunfire, then I believe it is sealed, and that there is a fill plug that will need to be removed and replaced after getting the proper level. Usually these cars are flushed and filled using the cooler lines. Check with your mechanic or dealer.
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After driving this car around the last few weeks, I've noticed many times when it's in high gear and should kick down. Like for instance cruising around town and going up a hill.
Somewhere around 30mph I'm already in high gear. At that speed even the slightest hill causes the engine to lug.
I wish I would have had more time to correct all the wrongs of this car. 54 years of people tinkering takes it's toll. I'm sure my dad will take his time and make it right.
I spent my time with the car making it safe to drive and be reliable. All new hoses, belts, wires, fluids, carb rebuild, balancer rebuild, new pitman seal, tires and a ton of other things.
I'm hoping my parents will enjoy the car this summer and then start work on it in the fall.
Thanks for all the help. It's been much appreciated.
Sounds like the Throttle valve inside the transmission is not correctly connected to the outside lever, or the valve is not working. It should shift at higher speeds than you mentioned. If the linkage outside is doing anything then it should be shifting at various speeds with various throttle positions.
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I would think prices would be $300-$500 depending on condition. They were used from 49 to 53.
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Does the radio make a buzzing sound when it is on? It should buzz after a minute or so. If not, then the vibrator or the associated components are probably faulty. Vibrator is a 2"metal can, that in your case is probably located on the speaker/amplifier chassis.
PM me if interested in having it repaired at a reasonable cost.
)
Differences in Rochester 4GC between Buick and Olds
in Buick - General
Posted