platt-deutsch

I seem to get lot of oil hitting the cap and then running down the side and makes a mess.. Is there sposed to be screen or baffles in it?

I can supply a blank like you describe but the guy that has one exactly as yours complete with slight rust is $45.00 If a yale blank fits it then it will not have all the original markings as yours but will work and they are only $2.50 ea.

Problem with Chrome is it is porous and water will get thru it and eat on the base metals..

What are key numbers ? Any key brand on it? Is it single sided? I might be able to cut it by code for you..

I bid on 3 of them.. I got sniped in the last 5 to 10 seconds of the auction..Grrrr

Anybody got a DB book of Information for a 25 DB that they would want to sell ?

Found this site.. very interesting.. http://strangecarsandthings.blogspot.com/

If you scrape it with a pocket knife it should be a greyish white color and it will be quite soft.. Soapstone is used to mark steel etc as it is somthing like chalk..retains a lot of heat though..

The old foot warmers we had were made of a slab of soapstone about 12 x 14 x 1.5 inches thick.. had a wire carrying handle.. we would put it on the cookstove and when we needed it it was hot..Never heard of one made of charcoal as I doubt that would retain much heat..

Por 15 has a product called marine clean. I never seen anything eat the crap out of a tank like that stuff.. 1 Quart of it with 1 quart of boiling water and the inside of the tank shines like new.. I left it soak for a whole day and evertime I thought of it I agitated it. worked great! and it is included with the tank restoration kit..

POR 15 Tank Sealer kit works just dandy.. You have to take the tank off to do it.. Then follow directions.. Is your gauge completly missing or is it just the gears? In your profile would be nice if you put your car info in there as we have no way of knowing what car you are working on..

Could you buy Carriage bolts and just reshape the head on a grinder ?

Boy..! That would be great.. I am going to try to make them look just like the original.. those drawings would sure be helpful.. Maybe you can scan them without taking it apart.. Gary

Thanks Dave..

Does anyone know what years DB4 12 volt use the same ignition coil as my 1925 DB. I am building a production run of these coils and need to know what they all fit.. Thanks Gary

That Marine Clean is powerful stuff.. I just put a quart of boiling water with a quart of Marine clean and worked it around frequently.. After that stuff was done and I rinsed it out the inside was bright and shiny.. Then I etched it and it was like new inside..

I used thier POR15 Black engine paint. High gloss and durable.. I found it can be diluted with Xylol instead of thier special thinner..

US standard fuel tank sealer but you will need the complete kit so that you have the marine clean and the etching solution. If you do it right you will have a great repair..

Anybody got a idea how to keep the hand throttle where you put it. Mine keeps working back to idle..

The distributor drive unit has a centrifugal advance system in it that will advance the timing up to 25 Deg. You can also advance the timing with the hand control up to 20 additional deg of advance. Very nice mechanism if you ever had one apart.. well made..ahead of its time..

My 25 has the marks..

Cant you just use the timing marks on the flywheel?

I know the price seems a bit high but they require a lot of time to make. I see that Romar has someone that will rewind your original coil for $200.00..

Looks like there is not much interest..

I am considering manufacturing a batch of new coils. They would be same size as the original. I would need to tool up for at least 50 pcs to make it pay. They would be $150.00 each. Gary