platt-deutsch

Thanks all.. I got it mounted and all looking good. If all goes well I should have first smoke tomrow since the overhaul. I added oil rings and that should help with the oil smoke..I also added pertronix electronic ignition. Does any one have a dead NE original coil I can purchase.. I plan to rewind it.. Thanks

Anybody Know if there is supposed to be springs under the radiator? Mine just had 2 castle head nuts that were very loose..

One of the pictures from the front looks like the drivers side front wheel is out of whack..

My owners manual on my 25 says, Weight 2970 lbs Width 5ft 5inches wheelbase 116 inches Lenth 14 ft 10 inches

Can you describe the problems with it.. Can you hear the vibrator hum? Do the tubes light up? Does it work at all or is completly dead.. I used to repair these back in the 50-60s I still have some parts and I am sure if had it here I could probly fix it..

Now that was really helpful.. I printed it out for future reference.. Thanks Gary

Thanks for the input guys.. I will torque them to 55 and retorque after the engine warms up (if it starts) Gary

What is proper torque for the headbolts? I am guessing 65 to 70 ft/lb. I torqued the Rod bolts to 45 and then tightned them just enuf so I could get the cotter pins on the castle nuts. Just about back toghether.. Took a month of free time to overhaul it and I put Oil Scraper rings and oil rings in it. Thanks

Amen.. so true

Hi Larry.. I just replaced mine and it was held in place with a 3/16" steel pin. I was able to pull it out with a pair of side cutters..Had to drill a hole for the pin in the new shaft.. Oh ja. The shaft is smaller on one end so be sure to note the way the impeller in on the shaft as only one side is open.. The open side faces the input header..

I think I figured it out... remove the screw that keeps the dist. in the housing and squirt a few drops in there and it will hit the wick.. Still wondering about the valve cover color..

Thanks.. Well on the side of the housing that the vertical dist. shaft goes thru there is a cotton string with a wire in it like a pipe cleaner that I am sure is to wick oil onto the shaft but I see now way to get oil to it other than to remove the distributor and squirt oil on it. I think excess grease will work from the hor. shaft over to the gears but I cant fig out how the shaft gets oil.. If I were to put 1/2 inch of light oil in the bottom of the gear box it would probly work but I am not sure.. are the valve covers black or engine color ?

Anybody please ?

Just replaced my shaft. I will measure the old one and the new one. There was a slight difference. By the way.. you do know one of the nuts is Left hand thread.. If you need some packing I have a 100 ft roll of it here. Also the packing goes in ahead of the packing sleeve and not under the nut.. gary@siebring.com

Is there supposed to be oil in the bottom of the distributor drive unit ? The shaft from the water pump has a Grease cup but I see no way to lube the gear or the shaft. I notice a gasket in the end of the coil box but I wonder if the govenor weights etc are sposed to be in oil? Also what color were the Valve box covers? Black or cream Thanks Gary

In the bottom ring groove I will drill 8 3/32 holes for oil return and Otto engine is sending me a special oil ring that will fit that same groove. Should be the end of the smoke and carbon build up, plug fouling etc.. Original had no oil rings.

Hi Dave.. Ja.. Otto Engine 410-398-7340 Very helpful guy.. makes rings from 3/4 inch to 81 Inch.. I have no idea what they are for..

Tryed Egge .. No help.. Called Otto Engine Co. and they had them on the shelf.. Thanks for the help..

Does anyone know of a source for a set of Piston Rings for 25 DB? Also does anyone know what the numbers stamped in the top of the original pistons mean.. 10 5 3 15X 35 Linite Dodge 15551-A These are original pistons. The rings seem to have lost a lot of thier tension.. I suspect that is why it is burning some oil..

How does the oil get back to the pan from the lifter area.. Is there a drain hole in there? I have been loosing oil from that area.

What color were they originally and was there supposed to be a gasket ? If so approx what did the gasket look like and was it just on the bottom of the covers? Should the head gasket be replaced after I pull the head or is it permissible to use the old one if its not ruined? Thanks for the help

OK.. I am going to pull the pan and the pistons and give a through cleaning. It does burn some oil in cyl 1 and 2 so I guess the rings are stuck from being 83 yrs old. Is there anything special to look out for when pulling the pan?

Has anyone used or seen a wheel made by Peter Burger in NY ?

Thanks.. Thats the info I was looking for.. The engine has never been apart.. 14000 miles total on car.. lot of gunk in it.. any good suggestions for cleaning it out without taking apart.. Runs good but burns some oil..

Has anyone put a filter on one? If so what is best to use and is it connected in the oil line before the pressure relief valve or after it ?