LennyDaVinci

This thread seems to have unearthed the right group for my next question... I have a '29 DA Australian-bodied roadster and the build card from Chrysler Archives stating that it was built 2nd April 1930 and fitted with engine # H-135689 (note the alpha prefix). It was exported to Australia and was fitted with a Richards body. It now has a motor #TE1-2784.. (last digits missing). I have tried for some time to determine if the current motor is a truck motor and how come the original motor had an alphabetic prefix anyway? BTW ... The car runs like a dream and has heaps of power, probably due to larger capacity engine. But what is it from ??

These are what the DAs have ... lever action with snubber belting.

I've added a couple of more pics on a recent run. Sweet to drive.

Apologies .. Apparently I have 2 AACA accounts! This is the Lenny DaVinci who has the DA Roadster. See my gallery

Coming in late on this conversation before it heads off into Barracudas ... I have an Oz Roadster (DA 1929) and always looking for parts. Photos in the gallery. No golf door however ... But a Richards body.

Dear Ian Greenlaw ... I posted some info about T. J. Richards some time back (see http://forums.aaca.org/f143/australian-dodges-history-268816.html) and there is a good selection of photos in the Sth Aust Archives. I have a Richards-bodied roadster and the build card from Chrysler Museum shows it as a RHD chassis shipped with dates and numbers. Maybe you could contact them for a build card if you have the engine number??

Thank you all. Those pictures did it for me. Problem solved.

So, if I understand correctly ... the float points to the deepest part of the tank (usually forward of the sender unit) to maximise the amount of swing possible. Anywhere else might interfere with the movement of the arm?

Does anyone know the correct orientation of the fuel sender unit in a 1929 DA? The long float arm can be pointed in any one of 6 directions depending on how its bolted to the top of the fuel tank. Should it point towards the front of the car, left or right when viewed form the rear of the car? Hope this makes sense without pictures!

My feelings are that, as long as they are "reversible" mods and can be removed later, they add a lot of safety to an old car living in a world where no-one looks around anymore. We can no longer rely on the novelty factor alone to keep others from running into us!

There is guy in New Zealand that does a wide range of hubcaps. Look at Replica Hubcaps Home

If you can point me to that article, I would appreciate it. Is that the Dodge Brothers Club mag?

Now that you mention it Dr. Joe, I bought a system-full of something called Liquid Intelligence 115 (see attached sheet) as a total replacement for vintage and veteran car coolant. I am not yet game enough to actually fill my car with it until I get more info. It claims to last 6 years or more and is the choice of restorers. Anyone else had experience with this?? 115 Technical Sheet.pdf

Hi there in Tas, Dave Stuart of Antique Tyres (Ingleburn, NSW) is a Penrite dealer. He is on (02) 9618 2788

Thanks to all. I think I will make up a simple circuit from Tony's diagram and use a flasher unit that suits LEDs. I can always test it on the bench first!

I am going to fit LED turn indicators (tastefully) onto a DA. Too may unaware drivers about. Has anyone a simple wiring diagram for retrofitting these? I am thinking of a 3-way toggle switch on the dash with light (or beeper) as warning rather than column mounted levers. Flick left for left and right for right turns. I believe LED lights need different flasher units or they go too fast? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Meanwhile Happy Holiday season.

Hello Trev, I have a '29 Aust-bodied Dodge Roadster and the mouldings, windshield stanchions and firewall are all different to mine. Maybe an earlier one? But it is good to meet a local ... I visit Bowral regularly.

Thanks 2251 ... I'll chase them this week.

I am trying to find a speedometer cable (or just the nut on the back of the speedo) for a '29 DA roadster. It is a North East brand drum style dial, and the gearbox end is a standard 7/8" fitting, but the speedo end seems to be 3/4" 20tpi .... unusual around here. Any suggestions for supplier?

Dodge Brothers were producing cars right up until ~Oct 1929 before the Chrysler take-over... so it won't be one of the last.

Thanks to you both. I will place an order.

I guess its doubled over so there are no frayed edges?

Does anyone know of a supplier of the webbing straps that connect lever-action shocks to the axles on DAs? Is there a modern equivalent in poly-plastic that will not rot when damp? Preferably a supplier in Australia.

Hi all, I have had the same trouble in Australia. My order for 6 new Goodrich tyres, tubes and rust bands for my DA arrived, and two of the tubes deflated on the car without ever leaving the garage. Investigations revealed "Made in Denmark", and the supplier replaced them free of charge. I only worry that the other 4 are destined to blow at some unpredictable time. They split, just like Joe's, along the weld near the valve stem.

Thanks 1930 and Near ... that shows me what I am dealing with. I'll try some heat and penetrating oil and if that fails, I might have to grind them off and re-tap etc. Interesting to see that the 'blocks' aren't actually solid! More care will be taken. I am also envious of your wing nuts in the photos - very hard to find.