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VIN # location?


RocketDude

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Wondering the location of the VIN number on a 1951 Super 88. I have the title in front of me, and when I type the number listed on the title, into the VIN decoder, it says number is incorrect. I tried the number on the tag on the drivers side A pillar, with the same results.

I would appreciate any help I can get on this. Thank you

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The plate on the door jamb is for all practical purposes the car's VIN. A 1951 Super 88 should read <span style="font-weight: bold">518_-xxxxxx</span> with 51= 1951, 8= Super 88, _ is the assembly plant code, and xxxxxx is the sequential VIN. Assembly plants are: A= Atlanta GA; B= Framingham MA; M= Lansing; L= Linden NJ; C= California; K= Kansas City KS; W= Wilmington DE. All this is from my parts books.

You're sure you have a Super 88 and not an 88A, which was the 1950 body carried over on the base 88 series?

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It's a Super 88, late body style, like the '52. Your information helped. I got it to take the number. A typo the first time didn't help any! The number on the pillar is nothing like the number on the title. I can't imagine where they came up with that number. It was a one owner car, and the title is from the state of origin, but they surely do have the wrong number on the title.

I wanted to make sure everything is correct because I now need to get a police officer to verify the VIN, so I can get my license plates.

Thanks very much for your help.......

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Nope! No reservations at all. The worst that can happen, is that someone duplicates the title, and comes to take it away. Think how happy my wife would be..!

The number on the title is 8C113987

I have a pretty complete history on the car, including original owners name and address The dealership name and address, but don't know when it was manfactured, or sold. Is there a way to find out assembly date? When did the body change from 88A, to S88?

I even found all of his service records, scratched on scratch paper stuck behind the visor morror and some in glove compartment. A few hours with a magnifiting glass, and I was able to put together a good history. The car only has 50,416 original miles. Perfectly straight and complete. Even the interior is in super shape. Barn parked since 1979. Of course it does have some of the famous Wisconsin rust out spots. None to serious. The body shop is the next stop, now that the engine and brakes have been gone through.

I used to restore antique tractors, and John Deere has a service that, if you send them the serial numbers, they will tell you the day it was assembled, the day it was shipped, the dealer that it was shipped to, even the brand of tires it left the factory with. wouldn't it be wonderful if one could get that infornation for cars.

Thanks for your help, everyone......

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Hmmm... sure looks like a serial number with 51 dropped off the front, doesn't it? So the last 6 don't match the last 6 of the vin on the title? Could be an engine number. I'll have to do some digging when I get home tonight and see what I can find.

Paul

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I should have put in the VIN number in the above answer, but I was too busy flapping my yap..!

The VIN# is 518M7864. Not even close to the listed #8C113987..!! I don't know where the engine number is stamped.

I called both the local Police and the CHP this morning to see if they would send an officer to my house to verify the VIN, but no luck. I have to take the car to the CHP so they can put it up in the air and check all of the serial numbers. That complicates things, because it isn't ready for the road yet.

I'll see you tonight when you get home! Thanks again.

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you should find the engine number stamped on the machined surface of the block, common to the head, between the number one and three cylinders. difficult to read under the best of conditions and you may encounter some disassembly to see all of it.

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Guest Dave Wyatt

You're not having format difficulty are you? Older VIN numbers were not as long as they are now and some programs will not recognize a shorter number. For example, CarFax will not search the VIN on my 70 4-4-2 since the VIN is short a few numbers according to them.

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Maybe a call to DMV in the state the car was previously titled in is in order. Explain your situation and request which numbers they used to register the car when it was titled there. You may get some bullcrap about privacy laws etc or that the information is available only to law enforcement and insurance companies. In that case, have your insurance agent draft a letter requesting the information, or if necessary pay a lawyer $40 or so to do it. Sounds like it has a lot of bearing on your being able to title and register the car.

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Heidi, thanks for the engine # location. I will definitely jot it down. Since I just finished rebuilding the engine, and it's looking real good snuggled in it's nest, any amount of disassembly is out of the question, any time soon. (Unless the DMV has other ideas!)

Dave, The decoder took the number on the A pillar as being correct. The problem is, the number on the title is different that the correct number on the pillar.

Rocket trader, good idea! I'll call the DMV in the state the car came from. When I tell them the year, they will probably hang up. Can't hurt to try.

If all else fails, I'll drag it down to the local DMV, and see what they say about it. I assume, since they want the number verified before issuing plates, they may just change the title to reflect the correct number. The correct number is stamped somewhere on the frame, to foil would be thieves. If those two numbers match, I should be ok!!

In any case, I'll let you know how I come out.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'll have to do some digging when I get home tonight and see what I can find.</div></div>

Oops. Forgot. Sorry. I'll try again tonight.

Just for the heck of it, how 'bout the numbers off of the data plate on the firewall?

Paul

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So, it's Palm Green, huh?

I've always liked that color. Have a relative that had a new '51 98 sedan, Palm Green with a Sand Beige roof. Long before my time.

Anyway...

Top would be the code for the convertible top, if it was a convertible. ACC is for accessory codes. Only codes that would affect the body build, like hydraulic windows or something.

I think I fixed your title number problem. The "Standard Catalog of Oldsmobile" says this about I.D. numbers:

Serial number located on left front door pillar on right side of cowl. Engine number on block above water pump; and on plate on floor inside right door; and on left corner of block above generator: and on front of left cylinder head at negative battery terminal. Olds Super 88 numbers took the form of 518( )1001 to 518( )ending number. First two symbols indicate the year: 51=1951. Third symbol indicates series: 8=Super 88. Fourth symbol in ( ) indicated assembly plant as follows: M=Lansing. Remaining symbols were the unit's sequential production number. Starting number at each assembly plant was 1001. Ending numbers, by series, at each coded plant were: [super 88] M66062. Motor numbers (unrelated to assembly plants) were: [V-8] 8C1001 to 8C287312. Engines with a "B" prefix on Synchromesh cars.

So, open the passenger door and lift the rug and look for that plate with the engine number and I'll bet that matches what's on your title. I think it was common practice years ago to use the engine number for registration purposes instead of the serial number.

Mystery solved?

Paul

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Ya done good! That explanation sounds perfect! I printed it out and I will check out the number location as soon as I get access to the passanger door!

Right now it is on stands, waiting for brake parts. As soon as I can get it down, and am able to look at the areas you mention, I will let you know. Your answer has to be correct tho. thanks very much for your research.

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