Vagaso Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 I was recently checking out my brake system because the rear seemed to not be pulling it's weight. As I was bleeding the rear drums I noticed no fluid at all was reaching them. I went farther in to the main line going the the rear and no fluid presen there as well. Did Ford use the same valve throughout all it's systems? I can't seem to find a Mercury specific valve, because I'd like to rebuild it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 (edited) I m currently rebuilding a combination valve from a 70 Marauder. I think 69 is different. I would look around on West Coast Classic Cougar, and find a setup that looks like yours and order parts for it. You probably have a separate metering block from the proportioning valve. The proportioning valve may be back further on the car somewhere. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/propvlvkit.htm That is for a metering block and prop valve that looks like this one: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8zz-2b257-assembly.html Rebuild video: Edit: Oops, they look to be out of stock of 69. They had them last week. Try here: Prop valve kit: http://www.deadnutson.com/catalog/item/2965331/9981991.htm Metering block kit: http://www.deadnutson.com/catalog/item/2965331/10061180.htm (apparently sold separately at this outlet) Or here: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Brakes/Proportioning-Valves/Distribution-Proportioning-Valve-Rebuild-Kit-1968-1969-Mustang-Disc-Brake.axd Or here, this may be the actual source: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-kit-wagner And a rebuild article: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-rebuild-wagner Try to match part numbers on the valves if you can. If the numbers dont match, but it is an exact match visually, the seals will probably fit. Any calibration differences would have to be springs. If it is not an exact match visually to the stuff I listed, look around on those sites. There are some other valves Ford used during that period. Good luck! Edited January 10, 2018 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vagaso Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 I'm guessing this is the metering block? It's right next to the valve. Also here's an image of my valve. It's ridiculously tight around that area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Proportioning valve or simple differential pressure switch to light the dash light when there is a hydraulic leak in one of the circuits? Are the front brakes disc or drum? And first, did you test to see if brake fluid was exiting the section of the master cylinder that feeds the rear brakes? I ask because I have seen the master cylinder fail (dirt clogging the port in the reservoir) to supply fluid to one of the circuits. I have not seen the "valve" fail to pass fluid, but of course DOT 3 corrosion can happen any where in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 (edited) Your Proportioning valve (the smaller one) looks to be a Kelsey Hayes more or less like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/68-69-MUSTANG-COUGAR-BOSS-NOS-FORD-C7AZ-2B091-A-DATED-MAY-68-NICE-/321745123162 and so probably takes this kit: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/2B091-Kit-2 The bigger part with the electrical switch (that I was calling a metering block) Frank is calling a differential pressure switch. Frank is correct, by the way. This is my best guess for a kit, but I cant positively identify from those pictures. https://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-kit-wagner-dist You are at the point where you really need to get the part numbers and then dig around on the musclecarresearch site until you find matches. You may need to remove the parts to see the numbers. Be sure to crack all the lines loose before unbolting anything. If you dont already have some, now would be a good time to go buy a set of HIGH QUALITY tubing wrenches. Good luck Edited January 11, 2018 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vagaso Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 I have checked the master cylinder outlet and there's no blockage there. That's gotta be what my proportioning valve is as well. It's so snug in there that I'll have to remove everything to figure out anything else. I do need some tubing wrenches for sure. It'll take time with these original lines, but I'll get it off eventually. Thanks for all the help so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 If you can buy some Snap-On flare nut wrenches used, like the RXS series, you will like them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Indeed. Those are the best flare wrenches EVER! (but not cheap). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 I agree on the Snap-On tubing wrenches. They are the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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