1931 Franklin 151

[robcars]

I recently purchased a 1931 Franklin Model 151 6 Window sedan. I had a friend look at the car and have pictures of it. I do not know what other parts I will need until after it comes. This will be my first Franklin.

 

I am looking for a  Crank Hole Cover, Carburetor rebuild kit, Cowl Lights, Right Tail Light (passengers side) engine gaskets, and valve gaskets.

Thanks,

Robert

 

[Scott in PA]

Congratulations Robert! Hopefully you've already joined the Franklin Club. The Club is a wealth of knowledge and will be to assist you keeping car the road. Look up Jeff Hasslen under "For sale-parts" on the club website for your gasket needs. Mike West probably has just about everything else your list. He'll see post get a hold of you. Where are from?

Good luck!

Scott Arnold

[robcars]

I am from San Diego but moved to Nashville, TN.

[John_Mereness]

The Carb (if the original Stromberg U-3) is pretty straight forward and really only needs a gasket and new seals around jets and ..... - you can pretty much clean up all the brass parts and cut gaskets yourself.  Be careful in disassemble and assembly, the die cast venturi's swell ... - repros are available (or use to be available from the club) - I ran originals for years and never gave them a thought (I just carefully took apart and always sanded them to fit prior to re-installing.  The last needle and seat I bought came from Daytona Parts, I have also run Grosse Jets, and also adapted 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass needle and seats (they need a spacer made).

 

By the way, make sure no sludge in oil pan.  And, make sure running whatever whatever the people driving them are currently running for oils (a Franklin is very hard on oil via engine temperature, plus it is flat tappeted and needs zinc.

 

Most of the engine gaskets are copper stock or paper.  Anneal the copper stock prior to re-assembly.

 

The valve gaskets are cork - again you can buy the stock from a good local gasket material supplier and cut yourself.

 

Key Graphite Paste is good to seal Cylinder Heads to Cylinders, but I would avoid project unless you see trouble  - that being said, if you have problems with the seal it is good to look at whether the shorter studs (I think there are 3 per head) are stripped (which is harder than you would think to determine) - you can heli-coil.

 

Tom Rasmussen at Odyssey Restorations is always worth a call.  http://www.odysseyrestorations.com/  Tom did quite a bit of engine / mechanical work on my car, as did Jeff Hasslen.

 

Crank hole covers are near unobtainium, The car never had cowl lights (the parking lights are in the headlights).  Taillights are a bit hard to find. The taillight bracket can be made from metal stock, pipe stock, & silver solder.

 

By the way, a Franklin is a pretty "forgiving" car - you can run one with plenty of problems (just do not tear anything up).

Edited March 12, 2016 by John_Mereness (see edit history)

[John_Mereness]

Also, if you end up doing any exhaust work do yourself a favor and increase the size of the tailpipe (the original exit size from the muffler and the muffler to rear of car pipe is pretty small, especially when compared to the header).  My car had a larger pipe on it from new, what appeared to be "experimental heads", and a high speed rear axle - everyone was amazed at the performance differences.  The ones who tried the exhaust change were most pleased.

Edited March 12, 2016 by John_Mereness (see edit history)

[John_Mereness]

I had a fellow ask why I would anneal a Franklin headgasket:  Franklin uses a thick solid copper gasket between the cylinder head and cylinder, as well as a solid copper gasket between the cylinder and the block (a much more thin gasket though).  The gasket between the cylinders is like a piece of copper sheet metal stock (ie they have no asbestos guts in between the layers).  Thus, you anneal a Franklin gasket to soften it, but you would not anneal a head gasket for most any other type of car.  

 

And, when installed, you need solid studs (several are "through" studs and I believe 3 are shorter-partial studs (the partials have a tenancy to strip in the aluminum head casting - they do not come out like you would think of a stripped bolt, but they also do not tighten long term (ie heat loosens them). I will always recall a fellow insisting I start my car prior to heli-coiling and wearing a white shirt that was not so white after. 

 

Surfaces have to be clean and then use of Key Graphite Paste on all surfaces (it is steam fitters paste) - and when you start car the first time it hardens and smells like you are baking molasses cookies.  I did have a fellow suggest I have car well tuned as he was cautious about backfiring in the process of the first start and baking in (never had such problems so do not know if a true issue).

Edited March 12, 2016 by John_Mereness (see edit history)