Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

1950 Windsor Axle Shaft Questions


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 rls120

rls120

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts

Posted 30 August 2012 - 10:33 PM

Hi: I've been lurking here for a month (since I bought my 1950 Windsor!) and have a few questions I hope you guys can help me with.

My passenger side rear axle is leaking profusely, and I've aquired the new bearing, race and inner and outer seal. I plan to replace it all so I don't have to do it three times:). I've acquired a shop manual and a Motors manual, and still have a couple of questions before I begin this job.

1. How do I pull the axle, given that I don't have the special tool listed in the shop manual, and the Motors manual just says to use a 'suitable puller'. Slide hammer with a crow's foot attached to the brake drum, then pull the brake drum from the axle after its out? (Thats my best guess, but I'd be more comfortable trying it if someone who had actually done it would advise.)
2. Neither manual gives any instructions to pack the bearing with grease, but it sure looks to me like it needs to be. Inner seal to keep gear lube out, grease for the bearing, outer seal to keep grease in seems to be the configuration, but again, the manuals are no help. Whats up with the 'axle shaft bearing oil hole plug' (#42 on page 27 of the shop manual)?

I'd really appreciate some advice before I tear this beast apart!

#2 Rusty_OToole

Rusty_OToole

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 7,413 posts

Posted 30 August 2012 - 11:29 PM

You need a big 3 jaw puller to get the hub off, or the factory puller. The hub is on there real tight. The axle shaft bearing oil hole plug can be removed, a grease fitting put in, and give the bearing a shot of grease with a grease gun. This only needs to be done every 10,000 miles, do not put too much grease in or it will get on the brakes. You are right, it is best to pack the bearing with grease when you assemble it.

#3 rls120

rls120

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts

Posted 31 August 2012 - 12:13 AM

Rusty: Thanks for the info. That all makes sense, and reinforces my intuition. I DO have a hub puller (played that game 30+ years ago when I owned a brace of 1961 Dodges, and have removed the drums on this Windsor several times while working on the brakes), but I'd still like some advice on how to remove the axle from the housing. Looks like its a press fit between the race (which is actually installed with the larger part of the cone facing the car's centerline) and the axle housing, and that the race is what holds the axle in place. Right?

An aside: I've always been a Chevy man, with goods feelings towards 60's and 70's Mopars, of which I've owned a few. When I compare the engineering on this Chrysler with that of the two '51 Chevy's I've owned, I'm amazed! Its as if this car is 10-15 years newer! It LOOKS like a '50s car, and Feels like one when I drive it, but there's absolutely no comparison when it comes to engineering. For example:

Chevy:
Dipper Oiling
Babbit Bearings
Vaccuum Wipers
No Stock Oil Filter
Powerglide (2speed, what a joke)or
3 on the tree
Troublesome mechanical brakelight switch
Etc. Etc.

My Windsor:
Pressure Oiling
2 speed electric wipers (Works going uphill, wow!)
Replaceable shell bearings
One piece rubber rear main seal (replaceable)
Factory full flow oil filter
Padded dash
bulletproof 4 speed transmission
Pressure switch for brakelights

I'll bet Mopar owners of the 50's felt like the keepers of a closely guarded secret!

#4 Rusty_OToole

Rusty_OToole

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 7,413 posts

Posted 01 September 2012 - 07:48 PM

Tom McCahill remarked in a 1955 road test that every part on a Chrysler looked like it cost more to make than the corresponding part on its main rivals. They had a lot of quality features in those days, soon to be lost due to cut throat price competition.

My factory repair manual shows pulling out the axle shaft with a special puller. After removing brake assembly and fitting a special sleeve on the axle to protect the seal.

#5 rls120

rls120

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts

Posted 19 October 2012 - 11:35 PM

Special puller indeed: I finally fabricated one of my own which did the job nicely, if not as eloquently as the official Chrysler tool would have done.

#6 c49er

c49er

    bob

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 868 posts

Posted 20 October 2012 - 01:46 AM

Shown are two ways of several to remove the rear shafts. 1st pic is with the factory Miller tool. 2nd way is using a hook slide hammer. Another way is to put the drum on kinda loosely-leave the nut on a few threads and yank it back and forth, should pull the axle. Some axles come right out too!

Attached Thumbnails

  • Pulling P23 axleshaft (4).JPG
  • Pulling P23 axleshaft (5).JPG


#7 rls120

rls120

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts

Posted 20 October 2012 - 02:08 AM

I tried the hook/slide hammer method to no avail. Finally created my own tool out of a piece of pipe and some flat stock.

#8 StillOutThere

StillOutThere

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 524 posts

Posted 20 October 2012 - 12:58 PM

I've knotted a heavy chain around the end of the axle with nut and washer in place. Then whip the chain away from the car. The weight of the chain is greater than most slide hammers. A few whips will bring out any tapered axle like this.

#9 c49er

c49er

    bob

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 868 posts

Posted 20 October 2012 - 02:36 PM

A parts car way to remove one is to smack the opposite axle, it will pop the axle out with a quick sharp hammer blow.

#10 rls120

rls120

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 51 posts

Posted 20 October 2012 - 03:56 PM

StillOutThere: LOL, I can just see myself trying to whip that chain and then having it fly back and knock me out cold! But then I'm accident prone. Or I could hook a come-along to the chain, and pull the car off of its jack stands:) (stupid gearhead tricks 101)

c49er: I'm reasonably sure that I ruined the bearing/seal in the first place by smacking the wheel puller (of course I later read that one should never do that). So I'd definitely restrict THAT maneuver to parts cars, or a situation where I planned to replace BOTH bearings and seals.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users