Guest Praisedlowrd Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) Hello, I'm new to the forums and new to the straight 8's. I have a 1950 buick sedanette special with the straight 8 and dynaflow. I'm in the process of cleaning her up and getting her roadworthy and installing air ride suspension. The buick has several leaks. Someone did a power steering conversion and all of the hoses and lines were shot. I replaced the hoses but it seems like there are other areas that might be leaking. Of course, everything around the power steering is completely covered in grease, dirt, and oil caked on over the years. The toque ball retainer leaked badly and I have already replaced the toque ball retainer, gaskets, and shims. The cork oil pan gasket was in bad shape and everything was soaked in oil. I dropped the pan, cleaned everything up and went back with a new gasket but I can't find any torque specs or tightening sequence. Any help is much appreciated! A very detailed build thread can be seen here if anyone is interested.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-50-buick-special-build.934897/page-2#post-10557644Power steering beforeAfterTorque ball outer retainer replacedOil pan Edited August 15, 2014 by Praisedlowrd (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen_Dyneto Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 In the absence of specifications, tighten the oil pan bolts sufficient to compress and seal the gasket but not so much that you distort the bolt openings in the pan. You might check the pan for that distortion and if present, correct it first. Sequence? Probably makes no difference but common sense says start in the middle and work towards the ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) In the absence of specifications, tighten the oil pan bolts sufficient to compress and seal the gasket but not so much that you distort the bolt openings in the pan. You might check the pan for that distortion and if present, correct it first. Sequence? Probably makes no difference but common sense says start in the middle and work towards the ends.I agree and 25ft lbs should be plenty........ooops....too much. Edited August 15, 2014 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dictator27 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 25 POUNDS FEET! That seems like an awful lot of torque for a pan gasket.Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) 25 POUNDS FEET! That seems like an awful lot of torque for a pan gasket.TerryYou are right. I don't know what I was thinkin'. I went ahead and edited my post. They should be as posted above....tight enough to seal the gasket, but not tight enough to cause a dimple around the bolt head on the pan. If they already have a dimple, flatten it out prior to installing the pan. Except for the factory stamping groove, the pan should be as flat as the mating surface on the block. The one shot of the oily pan looks like someone has already over-torqued them. Edited August 15, 2014 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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