ricosan Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Well I've found that exhaust manifolds are as scarce as hens teeth.Fortunately I found a welder who has had extensive experience welding and braising cast iron. He says he can do it with either brass or welding rods. Which do you think would be better? This weekend my plan is to get the engine up to operating temp and then loose the bolts that hold the intake/exhaust manifold against the head. Is there any particular order that I should undo them? What do I torque them to when I reinstall?Any other precautions would be appreciated too.ricosan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 I wouldn't worry about getting the engine to operating temperature. Are the manifold nuts brass? If they are it shouldn't be too hard to remove them. In any case just use a little pb blaster. They don't have a set torque value, just good and snug. If they are brass don't tighten as much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricosan Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Good Morning Nickel,Yea, nuts are brass. It looks like they are all easy to get to and I've sprayed them with PB Blaster. My biggest fear is reinstalling. I've read that 15 - 20 lbs of torque is appropriate for exhaust manifolds. Unless I hear something different, I plan to heat the manifold with a propane torch and then take the nuts to 10 lbs and then increase from there by 1 lb increments until I get to 15 lbs. I'll then start the engine and see how it sounds. I'm going to try to photograph the process if I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Just be careful as brass is not as strong as steel. They used brass because it corroded less than steel. I think I would go with fifteen rather than twenty pounds. Remember they really didn't use torque wrenches on these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 I am not sure why you want to heat the manifold before removal and replacement. I think you might be encouraging warping. I would do this cold and then re-torque after the engine has run a bit. 15 pounds is all you will need if things are flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricosan Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 I removed the manifold today. It came off pretty easy. In the heat riser there is a rod which I think is supposed to turn back and forth and do something. Is this rod missing a flange to divert the heat? What does it look like. Is this a necessary part? Do I need to have one made? I am taking the manifold to the welder in the morning. It looks worse than I thought. Yikes!ricosan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricosan Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 I removed the manifold today. It came off pretty easy. In the heat riser there is this rod which is supposed to turn back and forth and do something. I this rod missing a flange to divert the heat? What does it look like. Is this a necessary part? Do I need to have one made? I am taking the manifold to the welder in the morning. It looks worse than I thought. Yikes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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