dmgoulet Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 (edited) Hi. I am trying to make a rear crossmember for my truck using the stock bell housing. The front of the engine is easy to locate (manual crank hole line up to pulley nut). The rear is a different story... If i align the clutch pivot shaft level horizontally, the rear of the transmission appears too high and might hit the cab floor (if the cab were on the frame). IS the clutch pivot supposed to be level between the frame and engine? If so, I can complete the crossmember construction... if not, any suggestions?thanks Edited August 30, 2009 by dmgoulet typo error in Title (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Mine angles downward to the engine by maybe 1/2" to 3/4". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Thanks.. That gives me a starting point... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Resurrecting an old topic...Hello All... Ive come a little further on my '35 Dodge truck. Im still 'stumped' with the proper location/height of the rear crossmember. Here is the one my dad and I manufactured from 'parts' of others.It appears to be correct; however, the clutch torque shaft is angled down still and almost binding.I have the cab sitting on about 1' of rubber padding and here is the clearance at the top of the trans:I am unable to find any specification for what the padding between the cab and frame are supposed to be. If I raise the rear of the engine, I will be 'up-into' the cab with the transmission. I also cant see the cab sitting on more than an inch of rubber.I know I have the correct bell housing (P/N 636140). The only discrepancy I have is the clutch torque shaft. I have what appears to be P/N 635861 (hard to make out some numbers). My parts book indicates I should have P/N 569957. Is there really that much difference between the torque shafts? I have two of the same pivot brackets (P/N 635882) but my parts book states this is for the frame end. Another part number (569959) is what should be on the bell housing end. If the mis-alignment is because of the wrong parts for the clutch torque shaft, is there anyplace I can get the correct parts? If not, I have a machinist available to make the parts, however I would need some good pictures to make the parts from.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Dennis Edited February 9, 2015 by dmgoulet mis-spelled word (picky) (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 We have a couple of 35s. I'll try to get pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Thanks much... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) My crossshaft on my '35 KC(L) (Detroit built 8071921)also angles down quite a bit toward the engine. And I have the original engine mountings,front and rear. However I had an awful time setting the cowl on the frame but my truck was in terrible condition. I have an original K Series parts book and it has the different bodies and parts needed in the back. It says there was wooden shims of undetermined number used to 'level'(?) the cowl to the frame. It says the number of shims were 'as required'. Mine had one still in place and it is exactly 1/2" hard wood with a bolt through it, about 3" square. I made my own. However the right and the left sides do not have the same thickness of shims now. I have come to the conclusion that these trucks ,and cars, were assembled 'straight and level' on the line and God help the person 80 years later that tries to duplicate their work! This is what I believe is what you are up against. You will have to do what I finally did and that was I built 'my own truck'. Mine is together now and everything 'fits'. My cowl did indeed end up about 1/2' above the frame but not equally on both sides. The 'lineup' was the beltline mouldings on the cowl lining up with the beltline mouldings on the doors and on the rear sides. The cowl,side mud shields and anything else were separated from the frame by a cloth 'anti-squeak' strip which was the common method in those years on all vehicles not just Dodges. I hope this helps. I think the guys on some of these sites will tell you I scratched my head for a long while until I decided to hell with it and I built my own truck. You cannot tell the truck from original but I'm certain my truck and yours are not the 'same' so there's not much use in me giving you measurements. Edited February 12, 2015 by DodgeKCL (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Thx DodgeKCL. I didn't even think of it being wood as the spacers. As for the clutch torque shaft, the shop manual has an image of the brake/clutch pedal assembly and in that image the torque shaft is horizontal. I'm thinking the clutch torque shaft pivot on the engine is different than the one on the frame... where the pivot ball is higher than the upper mounting bolt. Trying to verify from pictures on the internet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 (edited) Wood is used between the frame and cab. Edited February 13, 2015 by countrytravler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Thanks countrytravler Those will help (as will the other advice given here). I'm sure that I should not raise the back of my engine any higher. I will have to fabricate a pivot point on the bell housing to make the torque shaft more parallel to the ground than is shown in my picture.Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Dennis. Check the video of one of our customers 35 Dodge 1st series truck that stopped at our shop. Look at the 35 to 37 sec mark. Maybe that will help.Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Thanks... I saw that video before but didnt notice that shot. The pivot point is not centered between the two mounting bolts like the one on the frame. Im going to have to fabricate something.Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 My Mount is straight and level on secondseries, when truck is on lift driveshaft is a little in bind, once it is on its wheels, it is at correct angle, use standard rubber mounts on transmission crossmenber, and front floating power rubber mount, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Could you provide a close-up shot of the clutch torque shaft pivot on the forward face of the bell housing? That is a part I will need to machine since I have two of the pivots that sit on the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 here you go, I had the same problem when I put mine together, pivot was missing, I had 2 frame pivot , but none for bell housing, I used the ball and pivot from frame and machine a block to fit the bell housing, drilled for the pivot mount, , where bolt fits to bell housing mount, also the pivot is scalloped so the bolt retains the pivot.picture of my 35 is attached, Jesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 uploaded another picture of truck, the first one when I had 16 car rims on it, this one is 17 truck rim and correct hubcaps, hubcaps are hard to find, Jesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Nice truck... I have a horribly long way to go. Right now I only have 15" rims which will no longer work since I went back to the original steering hardware at the wheels. That's a later issue. Thanks for the pics of the pivot. It doesn't look like there is much left-to-right free-play of the torque shaft itself. I guess just enough to allow for motor movement. Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 the pivot ball is clamped in with 2 halve shells, it could slid in and out approx. 1/4 inch, that is the reason for lock pin on bell mount, I also modified cross member to make it removal able , It helps on engine change, If you need other info , between dAve, myself , and other 35 KC owners, we can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1936 D2 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I may be way off base here but looking at your second photo back in post #4 is seems as though the clutch torque shaft may possibly be in backward?If it was flipped end-for-end and then rotated 180 degs would that allow the shaft to align with the pivots at each end better? And the side arms on the shaft to be more vertical?The odd "unbalanced" shape of the shaft you have there seems like that could make a difference with the alignment ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Yhe shaft I have is not the correct part number for a 1935 Dodge KC. Neither is the torque pivot on the bell housing... just parts I came across. Once I fab up a new bell housing bracket all will be well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Dennis. that what I did 20 years ago on the 35, made the bracket for bell mount, because I misplaced mine, been working that way, were all engineers at hearth!!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Good views of the torque shaft and interconnects. Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 220902424575 This the item on eBay. Look like the bracket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 220902424575 I upload picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 It wouldn't be the right one for my application... mounting bolt holes are 90 deg out in relation to pivot. Good find though... maybe for 40s era? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=301622073045 Dennis, don't know if you got problem fixed they have complete pedal and clutch bracket for sale on ebay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 Thanks! I do have that assembly. I didn't have the rear crossmember to hold up the rear of the engine/trans. I fabricated one from pieces of others bases on photos from another 35 KC. I wasn't sure if I was correct on my fabrication because of how other items were aligning to the motor in that position... but I actually think I am closer to original than I thought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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