pepcak

Hi, I did not mean to say that the vacuum pump warning tag was used on 1917 D45, probably it was not. I have seen it attached to the straps holding some types of vacuum canisters, while D45 canister has the bracket directly bolted to inlet manifold and no straps. I am unsure about exact year or application of this tag, but I guess it may be used as an accessory one with any canister w/ drain tap. Josef

I am considering to have water pump cover for my 1917 D45 Buick recasted. This cover comes from the pump with threaded output. Would there be interest in such a casting in order to reduce cost for model work?

Offering a set of floor plates for 1917 D-45 Buick, maybe it can fit to other years or model. Etched on 1mm aluminium sheet. Also warning plate that is used for vacuum fuel pump.

I think you have two types of engine here; "smaller" one that is "D" of 1917 and "bigger" that is likely "E" for 1918 as determined above by engine #. I would think the later is overall longer due to bigger bore, so crankcase, crankshaft and block are longer and simply does not interchange with the earlier type and (I guess) also do not fit into earlier chassis. The 1917 D block also has water pump entry between #3 and #4 cylinder, while later has the entry between #2 an #3 cylinder. Also I believe that 1917 block has all 12 valve nests the same size and in line arrangement, while the later has one set of valves bigger (not sure if this inlet or exhaust from top of my head) and "zig-zag" arrangement due to this size difference. And yes, I would also go as much original as possible as Larry suggests, you have great selection of parts to start with, so why to re-invent the wheel 🙂

I would say aluminium pistons need more clearance in (cast iron) cylinder bore than cast iron ones. Cast iron pistons expand with (theoretically) the same rate with cast iron block, while aluminium pistons expand lot more thus require more clearance...

I guess that Standard radiator should have water inlet centrally located, under filler neck to match central location of engine head output; while Master radiator inlet should be offset to match the outlet pipe on the head.

In upper right corner is "search window"; type "buffalo wire wheels" there and limit scope of search to this Buick forum, there were several threads about wire wheels for 20s Buicks over years here....

Terry, the wheel size (26" size vs 25" size) has been already discussed on this forum and there were at least two other D45 cars with 26" rims identified. My car has 26" Baker wheels and there was one more car mentioned. I just cannot locate the thread anymore. So maybe they are not so uncommon as you suggest.... I am looking for a spare 26" Baker rim, for straight side tyre 34x4, with overall width 3.75" (95mm) any chances anybody? Thank you, Josef

Hello, trying to track down this car from former Czechoslovakia - looks like 4dr Convertible Sedan 2nd serie of 1932 (model 1083) or 1933 (model 1183). I do not think this is a top series (1093 or 1193) car because the grill is not fully chromed and also the wheelbase looks modest. Two pictures are likely from early 60s and third one is believed the same car in approx 1937. Is there a slightest chance this car went over big pond? Thanks for any feedback. Josef

.. still looking for this car: useable radiator (core w/ square cells, shroud not needed) 26" Baker rim for straight side tire 34x4 (rim with overall width 3.75") 1 piece of top hardware (I have only one side - pictured, looking for the opposite side matching part) Newtone horn

Am I wrong in assuming that 6cylinder model would have crank hole in the rad shell, whereas 4cylinder model has it in the apron panel?

here is what I have on my 1917; reflectors not shown, glass missing (usually a piece of flat glass suffice as a replacement).

Hi Kevin, I am currently investigating this option - to have my beam fixed. Josef

I support what Larry says, the rim / bezel does not look right, the bucket does. I can offer you a nice made repro bezels, PM me. I have them on e-bay too, #203949776915, should you prefer this way. I have attached 2 pics from internet that I believe show correct executiom.

HI Kevin, thanks for your response. If nothing else, seems the 1928 added a grease nipple to the yoke. The grease nipple should protrude approximately opposite direction (180 deg) of the brake lever. One of mine has the nipple in approx 90deg to the lever and thus it cannot be accessed due to shock absorber strap. But for now I will stay with what I have. Any chance for .spare solid "I" beam, mine seems to be bent so that I have difficulty to assemble LH brake yoke.