TheBlackMoon

+1 Though I haven't upgraded as yet (still have my trusty old Magnavox). Hey... at 200K miles it still works, so how can I complain?

On Ebay, I just came across this. Really cheap: $18.99 with $8 shipping. Someone could probably use this. For 88'89 Reattas only. '90-91 use a different type. 88 91 Reatta Windshield Wiper Master Switch - nice | eBay

Wish I had known y'all were out there. Little Red and I would've joined you!

If you mean that the darn thing won't open when you hit the lock release and then go out to lift the lid (but you hear the solenoid/switch and the latch release working), check out the following post. I have the same issue, and I think this may help... http://forums.aaca.org/f116/trunk-release-lock-assembly-question-304317.html

Yeah, mine was originally (before me, anyway) a woman's car. The Reatta, IMO, was like the Skyhawk and Toronado, a car for that guy/woman who didn't want to admit they were getting older, but knew darn well they were. Fast and/or big was too much for them, but they wanted something they could impress their friends with and yet still get in and out of (note how high the Reatta sits compared to other "sports cars" and the ridiculously wide opening of the doors). They weren't really "intended" for women (hence the HEAVY, Re-enforced, multi layered steel doors), but more for the elderly/middle-aged couple who finally got rid of the kids and recovered their home and life; the newly-made Grandparent of the time who were in their 50's and 60's. Older people wanted that fast, sleek styling, but "small" cars and "sports" cars were known to be deathtraps. How do you capture their interest? You build a small, stable, Sherman TANK with a cutsie name (Who knew a "Reatta" was a noose?) and a sporty, but mild disposition (with it's 6cyl engine). To appeal to the man who still wants a "fighter", you give it a (now legendary thanks to the GS, GN, and GNX) "Buick 3800" engine (albeit in FWD with a heck of a lot less HP) and say, "Hey, and it gets good gas mileage too!" Just my opinion. At 18-21, I never even heard of the car, but EVERY Buick lover in America over 30 probably did, considering how many tell me these days they wanted one when younger, but "just couldn't afford one". Remember, they were $30K+ cars BEFORE $30K+ cars was "tripping". Nowadays, a car that price is considered by most "economy"!

All I can say is... ENVY!!!!! :eek::eek:

Let me add my thanks to all, and specifically to Ronnie (for the pics). My '90 coupe's trunk stopped opening PERIOD not long after I got her back on the road (intermittent for a few months, then not at all). I can only use the glove button (someone prob tried to break in the trunk a while back, 'cause key no longer fits), but the relay is heard (very loud) and the latch too (even louder) when the switch is depressed. I tried WD40'ing it, silicon'g it, even oiling it to no avail. When I get home, I'm going to take a good hard look at that darn lock spring. Never even knew there was one!

Uh, yeah... So did I. No probs with clearance or anything else. Can't even fathom what the others are referring to. I used a standard 6054 H4 Conversion kit with a Projector lens and a H4 HID kit (although I think it was Bi-Xenon, as it had Hi and Lo beams): H6014/H6052/H6054 7X6 CRYSTAL HEADLIGHTS 6000K HID KIT | eBay There's an example. Stayed on car til I garaged it the last time and an overzealous "friend" busted my headlight out with my Blazer while trying to "nudge" the Reatta backwards into the tight garage. In fact, plan on doing it again. All of the electronics (balast and such) were mounted below the hood latch (under the latch cover/cowl), I believe (been a few years since I did it and took it off over a year ago before putting car back on road.). Never had a prob with cops and since when did it become "illegal" to put HID lights on a car (as long as they are not the deep blue kind)?

BTW, add me in as a perspective buyer and contributor.

If you take Ronnie's suggestion of multiple pics per calendar (with smaller pics on the bottom, as demonstrated) some of the lower (not lowest) res photos submitted could be incorporated as "fill-in", giving folks without the $$$ for a Hi-Res digital cam or hi-end scanner to participate (and feel theat their contribution is appreciated), while, at the same time allowing the "spotlight" to focus only on those submissions of acceptable resolution. It would also limit the selection of "highlighted (Spotlight)" vehicle submissions. If everyone makes a serious effort to submit high-quality photos, the same theme could be used, you would just eliminate the need to compensate for the lower quality photos. All of that being said... Let's put it down to simple resolutions... What would be the digital (resolution) minimums? 2550 x 3300 (So ~ 8.5MP RAW on a Digital Camera). Desired Resolution (pixels) ^2 * Page Width * Height (inches) / 1,000,000 = Megapixel Size Where ^2 means Squared. For those that don't know, that basically eliminates most photos taken with your cell phone or compact digicam. You need to go to a DSLR, minimum. Try to avoid compression (jpg/jpeg) and stick with RAW or TIFF files, as compression drops pixels. BTW, you do know that print specifications don't convert well to digital (viewable) specifications, right? With digital mediums, it's always best to just ask for "Megapixels" or give a specific resolution (x by x grid). See: 300 dpi megapixel converter

Oh, sorry... I thought my year was listed. It's a '90 coupe. This sucks! Why would GM mix and match sway bar bushings. I mean, really!

Hey guys, I tried to search for this, but can't seem to find it anywhere. Tried to go through Pa. inspection and they hit me for sway bar bushings. He complained that they "looked" :confused: old and dry-rotted (front and back). OBVIOUSLY the guy did NOT test drive the car or he'd have cracked his head (or my side window) the first time he tested that assumption! Must've figured them for an easily replaceable, high-priced-ticket item for his shop, cause he couldn't find much else wrong (inner tie rod, courtesy Baltimore City Streets, and fuel tank straps which, again, "looked a bit" rusted). Gheeze! :eek: So, anyway, here's the problem. Went to Pep Boys (Dealer doesn't have them) for sway bar bushings, and they have them. Problem is, I need to know if they are 18mm or 19mm. Did Reattas have both? Are the Front and Rear bars the same? Need help asap. Only given 15days to order, install, and re-inspect. Thanks.

To remove the dash cover for the IPC, once the 2 screws are removed as stated previously, if you don't have a "pry bar", gently slip your finger between the IPC and the dash cover, starting at the bottom of the cover (next to the steering wheel). You'll hear the clasp "pop" off and feel the pieces separate. Work your way around to the vent on either side, gently pulling the cover from the dash. If they are stubborn (the clips), gently slid a wide flat-head screwdriver between the IPC and the dash cover as far down as you can, again, starting at the bottom, next to the steering wheel, being careful not to scratch up your IPC. Twist the screwdriver slowly to "pry" the clips apart. then work your way around to the vents and then top of the IPC/dash cover to finish separating the clips.

Envious my foot! Outright blatent JEALOUS!!! Just because I'm lazy... what did you pull the SC motor from?

wws944, You weren't around the 1st time we "pulled that stunt" (with the service manual), but ruffle feathers? :eek: It wouldn't surprise me if a few peacocks started cawing like crows and struting like ostriches during mating season. Hopefully, GM's legal team has mellowed a bit over the years.