Steelbreeze

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Everything posted by Steelbreeze

  1. HIDING PITS IN 47 CHRYSLER HARMONICA GRILL

    This was done with a rattle can but it is also offered in a type you can spray from spray equipment. I have used the black from RPM for more than 20 years. This brand is new to me for wrinkle finish although I have used their heat resistant and header paint for many years. This one is from VHT. One thing about wrinkle finish is that you must follow the instructions almost to the letter. I have expedited the drying and wrinkling effect with heat before with good success. Almost mandatory in cold climates. VHT seems to be available in black, red, blue and gray. They all seem to be pretty heat resistant once cured and offer a durable coating. The RPM I always referred to as typewriter paint. Like the vintage typewriters had. I use extensively on motorcycle parts and valve cover inserts. Great for detailing.
  2. BEFORE: ^^^^^ BEFORE: ^^^^^ AFTER: ^^^^^ AFTER: ^^^^^ I couldn't afford to have my grill rechromed so I got hold of a descent condition grill and needed a way to improve the look of the harmonica insert section of the grill. I use wrinkle finish paint in my shop all the time but in the past have only found black and that wouldn't look right. Then I searched for other colors and found a very nice grey that I thought would look correct. After a few hours of prep and a lot of taping this is the outcome. It did what I wanted in hiding the pits in the painted portion of the grill. Plus it produces a hardened protection to help prevent future oxidation. I scuffed the insert sections with a purple scotch pad to open up the the pits then used the wrinkle finish paint exactly according to instructions. It produces a fine wrinkle that looks almost factory. Here's a before and after. This can help in many other areas for detail, especially under the hood. Hope it helps in your future projects.
  3. HIDING PITS IN 47 CHRYSLER HARMONICA GRILL

    Yeah, kinda. Once ya figure out a system it's not too bad. But worth the outcome. I ended up measuring the length of the rectangle sides and tearing a lot of pieces of tape to size. Then just slapped em on. I have a custom paint and body shop so I'm used to masking things tediously. Even though not totally authentic, I like using wrinkle finish for contrasting detail. Like I said, the final product is worth the time and effort.
  4. Thanx. That's what I needed to know. I just wanted to make sure this one wont work before buying another. This is what came on the car and I wasn't around when the tranny was rebuilt and reassembled
  5. Does this look correct? All the info I have shows one lead on the interrupter switch and as in the picture mine has two. This transmission was thoroughly rebuilt before I obtained the car so I have no idea if this was replaced or is what they removed and reinstalled. Does anyone have any idea if this is correct and if so what does the other lead connect to? The leads with the clips do not seem like a brake light type switch. I've looked around in the forum for a couple days and can't find the info I need. Thanx once again. Mark
  6. If anyone has first hand experience with this as far as knowing if the 2 prong switch in miner is correct or if there is a part number located on the switch, please let met know if mine can still be correct and possibly one prong is simply grounded.
  7. As some of you know my 47 Windsor came with the wrong carb to use with the fluid drive tranny. However I did have it rebuilt and rebushed by John Plaskan of John Plaskan antique auto parts before I found out this fact. The car runs fantastic and idles prefect. I finally found the correct carb for my Windsor and will now be selling the Stromberg which is factory correct for some Chrysler products. It has only been operated for tuning and testing of the electrical system. Most likely less than an hour of operation. I have it listed on eBay with a starting bid of $250. Which is the cost of the rebuild. Buy it now price is 385.00. If someone on the forum needs this carb I will make a generous allowance because of the tremendous help the forum has shown towards me. So in short, this is a sure thing. Not an older rebuild or NOS or a "has been sitting on the shelf" carb. Bolt it on and you're running. Plain n simple. I hope this ends up helping someone. Now I am sending the correct carb to John for rebuilding. I hope to have the 47 up and running in a couple months. Fingers crossed.
  8. I'm in no hurry. The mechanic that was helping with that project just baled on me so the rest is up to me from here. I can finish the electrical but will take me a little longer than it would have taken him. This is the problem dealing with proper with mental conditions.
  9. I have for sale an almost prefect original hood ornament for a 1949 - 1950 Chrysler that is absolutely beautiful. It has not been rechromed. I will post close up pix of any flaws I see visible. I would consider this as close to show quality original as it can get. I will take into consideration any serious offers and or trade for 46-48 Windsor parts that I may need as listed in my other posts. Hope someone gets to take advantage of this gorgeous piece.
  10. Thanx. I saw that also but it's odd that the one that was sold was listed as a neutral safety switch. Most neutral safety stitches look like mine with 2 leads instead of one
  11. Not the outer moldings but the garnish molding that surrounds the quarter window on the inside. But this is a club coupe which is different than other ones. The stainless steel window molding clips should come of fairly easy but I'm good with metal so I can most likely straighten a slight bend out of it. You also mentioned hub caps. I have had a lil trouble in that area also. I ended up using a set from I believe a 50 or 51. What is the measurement on your hubcaps please? I don't need fog lamps as I have had my housings rechromed. But ya never know. We have to start figuring out what kinda deal you want for any parts I can use.
  12. Valence looks to be in descent shape. Mine already has the holes for mounting fog lamps I also need rocker moldings for my club coupe. And now I need the interrupter switch on the fluid drive tranny. I still need the rear quarter garnish moldings and 1 stainless side window trim piece that hides the seam where the 2 ends meet. We'll keep trying. LOL
  13. The one that sold is listed as a neutral safety switch which mine does look like and what my mechanic thought it was. The interrupters are different. I wish I could use the neutral safety switch but don't believe they do the same operation.
  14. That was my thoughts. To me it looks like a brake light switch. But who knows. Now I just have to find someone selling the correct interrupter switch.
  15. These are pictures of the complete harness section that does the interior and the 3 different operations of the fluid drive. As in kickdown mode. 3rd speed and 4th speed operations.
  16. I have a 47 Windsor and it is not the same. Actually I bought it in hopes I could use it instead on mine because I liked the design much more but it won't fit the contour of the front of the hood. I just purchases another rear valance but it to doesn't fit. I listed a thread on the correct part number for the one I need. I could use a front also but I have one I already did most of the repairs. There are still other miscellaneous parts if you want to go further.
  17. nope. The only thing I ever found out about the rebuilder is that it was a shop in Miami. And the best timeline I have is that it was done around 5 years ago. My only hope it to find one here, on EBay or Andy Bernbaum. My mechanic was thinking the same as you that we'd just ground the other post but I'm not a big fan of guesswork and my thought is that it is already self grounded through its housing. Did you have a chance to go over the wiring diagrams? I'll start my search for a single pole interrupter switch.
  18. You pointed out the 2-wire diagram and I posted the 1-wire diagram. So that should be both of them. I also believe they are both in my old thread that you pointed out earlier when you said I must not have looked very hard. The one you referenced was actually my posting. I think it has the complete wiring diagram and not just for the fluid drive. I am not sure about the part if it was replaced with the wrong one as I stated in this original post, the original tranny was rebuilt before I acquired the vehicle. The previous owner said he had the engine and tranny rebuilt with "all new parts". Whatever that means. LOL Thanx for the help and info if you figure it out
  19. Yes these are the diagrams I am going by in my other thread, but the one you stated with the 2-wire set up is for the M6. Mine is the M5. And my year is 47. So my relay is in the fender well. And the interrupter that came on the car is 2-wire and the correct diagrams show 1-wire.
  20. That wire is ours. We have installed she aftermarket wiring harness and my mechanic ran the second write just in case it was needed. According to all the wiring diagrams I have found the interrupter switch only utilizes 1 wire. The fluid drive harness, which is separate on its own, we are making ourselves since I finally found the correct carburetor.
  21. In trying to remove the steering wheel using the normal methods we can't seem to even budge it a fraction. Are we missing something? So far we tried a normal wheel puller and also made a puller to attach to the threaded holes and attached a 10 lb slide hammer. Both after leaving soaked with a very good penetrating oil. No go Joe. Does anyone have any advice? There's nothing in the service manual to lead us to believe there is anything else search it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to avoid applying a cherry tip torch for heat so I don't ruin the plastic on parts of the steering wheel. Thanx in advance.
  22. 1947 Windsor steering wheel removal.

    If I use the torch I would use heat sink rather than a wet rag, even though a bit messy, since it absorbs heat much better. I can post a picture but not sure what that would do. The first method is a typical wheel puller that the bolts thread into the holes and the center pushes on the shaft. The one I made uses the same bolts and holes but I made an adapter to attach my 10 lb slide hammer. That should create enough force to yank anything off. A normal small dent puller uses a 3 lb weight. This one uses 10 lbs and with my power behind it. I just wanted to make sure that Chrysler didn't use some other means of attaching we missed although doubtful. Thanx for the help. I'll try and post pictures when I attack this problem again. Still open for suggestions.
  23. 1947 Windsor steering wheel removal.

    The nut is removed and with the normal steering wheel puller we tried so hard it started to flare the open end of the steering shaft. Then I made a tool to use the stated threaded holes and attached a 10 lb slide hammer and it wouldn't budge a millimeter. And it's been soaked many times with one of the best penetrating fluids I've ever used. I know it's pressed into the splines but geeez. Guess heat is my last resort. I just don't get it. This isn't my first rodeo and I've never had this problem before.
  24. In trying to remove the steering wheel using the normal methods we can't seem to even budge it a fraction. Are we missing something? So far we tried a normal wheel puller and also made a puller to attach to the threaded holes and attached a 10 lb slide hammer. Both after leaving soaked with a very good penetrating oil. No go Joe. Does anyone have any advice? There's nothing in the service manual to lead us to believe there is anything else search it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to avoid applying a cherry tip torch for heat so I don't ruin the plastic on parts of the steering wheel. Thanx in advance.