• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Steelbreeze

  1. I cannot seem to find anyone that carries the correct windshield gasket for my 47 Windsor club coupe that has the stainless trim around the glass. Odd part is that Steele Rubber carries the gasket by the foot that accepts the trim but not a one piece gasket. They also do carry a one piece gasket for my car that does NOT have the groove for the SS trim. They offer a service to vulcanize the gasket sold by the foot, thereby making a one piece gasket, but they want me to send a template of the glass in order to make what I need. Which will be at an additional cost. I have been searching for the one piece gasket for a year or more. Does anyone know where I can simply order a one piece gasket that will accept the stainless steel trim for my 1947 Chrysler Windsor club coupe? Thanx for any help anyone can offer.
  2. I'll give it another try but it wouldn't work last time. But I'll give it a whirl.
  3. The manual I have has installation instructions with the stainless in the rubber also for the windshield.
  4. On mine it is actually installed in the rubber. I installed the rear window this way and tried to see if the front went in the way you said and it will not. Same as the rear the rubber, it is installed as you said, then the stainless is inserted into the slit in the rubber after the window is in.
  5. Thanx, I'll try and find the listing and number and give them a call
  6. I have for sale an almost prefect original hood ornament for a 1949 - 1950 Chrysler that is absolutely beautiful. It has not been rechromed. I will post close up pix of any flaws I see visible. I would consider this as close to show quality original as it can get. I will take into consideration any serious offers and or trade for 46-48 Windsor parts that I may need as listed in my other posts. Hope someone gets to take advantage of this gorgeous piece.
  7. Brian, hers the link to the guy selling woody kits. Obviously he has the patterns, so maybe you can contact him and work a deal on the parts you are in need of. In any case, good luck with your project. I hope this helps a lil bit.
  8. I just saw someone on eBay I think that offers a wood kit that seemed reasonable. Maybe he would sell you some paterns or offer only select pieces that you need rather than the whole kit.
  9. The car starts and runs but I still haven't completed getting it on the road. No issues so far other than o was told a voltage reducer will not work for the clock. Someone wrote to me that they could convert it for around 80 bucks but I can't find that correspondence. Good luck and let me know if I can help. We also installed a modern wiring harness with fuse terminal.
  10. Does this look correct? All the info I have shows one lead on the interrupter switch and as in the picture mine has two. This transmission was thoroughly rebuilt before I obtained the car so I have no idea if this was replaced or is what they removed and reinstalled. Does anyone have any idea if this is correct and if so what does the other lead connect to? The leads with the clips do not seem like a brake light type switch. I've looked around in the forum for a couple days and can't find the info I need. Thanx once again. Mark
  11. I just moved my warehouse but do still have the ornament. I will have to look in some boxes in order to find it. It's been a while but I think I paid somewhere around 350-400 for it. It really is a beautiful specimen for being original. The flaws I isolated in the pictures are not very visible in person. But I want people to see what they are buying so there's no disappointments. I would love to know that it was installed on a nice model Chrysler. It is worthy of a town and country in my opinion. I manage a high end restoration shop here in south Florida. Let me know if you are in a hurry.
  12. I am searching for the rear quarter window garnish moldings and one set of front and rear flipper window cranks. There are other pieces I an in need of but these are the most urgent. Thanx for any help that can be provided.

    I am in need of the transmission interrupter switch. For some reason the one that is currently installed has 2 prongs on the top instead of only one. The transmission and engine were fully rebuilt before I acquired the car and this is what was on it. And I can't afford the close to two hundred bucks some people want for theirs. I'll just have to wait for a break or for someone wanting to trade out for another part I may have.
  14. We're in the final stages of installing the aftermarket wiring harness but other than having the complete wiring diagram for the car, we need a more isolated diagram for the fluid drive wiring and components. I saw Long Island wiring sells a harness for this area but not sure if we need to purchase that since we are not using an original 6 volt harness for the rest of the car. Any helpful hints will be appreciated. Please post the diagram if anyone has this info. We are not sure other than the trans solenoids if all of the components are on the car. ie: ignition interrupt switch, etc. Thanx for the help. Hope to be driving her soon.

    Would be easier and cheaper to get the correct carb than to change transmissions. Besides having the correct functionality. As you see I was in the same predicament

    Yes I did get the correct carb. The micro switch was our first option until the carburetor became available. Now I'm just looking for the correct interrupter switch. The one that came on mine from them rebuilding the trans doesn't seem to be correct. Mine has 2 prongs and should only have 1
  17. Very old topic but next time check with John Plaskan @ He is an excellent carb rebuilder and has an unlimited source of old carb parts. He's in Webster Florida. 813 713-5820.
  18. I am still in need of the correct interrupter switch for my M5 tranny. I can't afford the one on eBay. Way outta my price range. If anyone knows of one available please let met know.
  19. Pedal Pads

    I would think Andy Bernbaum would have replacements.
  20. Agreed. I live in south Florida and have a couple sources that will get me a title for around $400.00. And with no trouble at all. Just as long as there is no police report of it having been stolen. So I agree that if you can get a better deal without and makes him think you are gong to save him a big headache, then go for it. And there are other ways of getting a title too. Register in a no title state, then take to your DMV and transfer. They will send you a nice new title.

    This was done with a rattle can but it is also offered in a type you can spray from spray equipment. I have used the black from RPM for more than 20 years. This brand is new to me for wrinkle finish although I have used their heat resistant and header paint for many years. This one is from VHT. One thing about wrinkle finish is that you must follow the instructions almost to the letter. I have expedited the drying and wrinkling effect with heat before with good success. Almost mandatory in cold climates. VHT seems to be available in black, red, blue and gray. They all seem to be pretty heat resistant once cured and offer a durable coating. The RPM I always referred to as typewriter paint. Like the vintage typewriters had. I use extensively on motorcycle parts and valve cover inserts. Great for detailing.
  22. BEFORE: ^^^^^ BEFORE: ^^^^^ AFTER: ^^^^^ AFTER: ^^^^^ I couldn't afford to have my grill rechromed so I got hold of a descent condition grill and needed a way to improve the look of the harmonica insert section of the grill. I use wrinkle finish paint in my shop all the time but in the past have only found black and that wouldn't look right. Then I searched for other colors and found a very nice grey that I thought would look correct. After a few hours of prep and a lot of taping this is the outcome. It did what I wanted in hiding the pits in the painted portion of the grill. Plus it produces a hardened protection to help prevent future oxidation. I scuffed the insert sections with a purple scotch pad to open up the the pits then used the wrinkle finish paint exactly according to instructions. It produces a fine wrinkle that looks almost factory. Here's a before and after. This can help in many other areas for detail, especially under the hood. Hope it helps in your future projects.

    Yeah, kinda. Once ya figure out a system it's not too bad. But worth the outcome. I ended up measuring the length of the rectangle sides and tearing a lot of pieces of tape to size. Then just slapped em on. I have a custom paint and body shop so I'm used to masking things tediously. Even though not totally authentic, I like using wrinkle finish for contrasting detail. Like I said, the final product is worth the time and effort.
  24. Thanx. That's what I needed to know. I just wanted to make sure this one wont work before buying another. This is what came on the car and I wasn't around when the tranny was rebuilt and reassembled
  25. If anyone has first hand experience with this as far as knowing if the 2 prong switch in miner is correct or if there is a part number located on the switch, please let met know if mine can still be correct and possibly one prong is simply grounded.