GarageStudios

According to the manufacturer, some Nylon/Carbons can after annealing, but I’m game to try it and report back, I’m also considering Alsa Chroming

@drhach I may use Alsa Chrome Paint (Colored Easy Chrome - The World's Most Exotic Finishes (alsacorp.com)) OR a nice deep black finish, My car will be Tiffany Blue with cream interior.

Hello AACA, I wanted to share some news on my project as I have not been on the forum for some time; ( I lost my Mom and Step-Dad within 6 months of each other in 22 ) so I took time away from everything to deal with estates etc.. Moving back to my Project (I have a few posts on here and so grateful with all the advice), I wanted to share some great progress on 3D Printed Parts, I purchased a new 3D Printer a while back that will print 16"x16"x16" with Carbon Fiber / Nylon Filaments, even higher filament temps as well.. so I can now print all those hard to find parts, as carbon is high temp / UV resistant so great for direct engine bay areas and direct sunlight. Carbon What? 3D Printer Filament (spool of material) - Engineering grade nylon filament which is blended with chopped carbon fibers (approximately 20% by weight), creating a high-strength filament capable of printing tough, shatter-resistant, functional parts capable of replacing many CNC parts. Carbon/Nylons have excellent resistance to alkalis and organic chemicals such as oils, fuel, and organic solvents but are degraded by halogens and inorganic acids. Its HDT is a whopping 150° C (300° F) I have the original grille sections that are still good to use, however they are showing signs of weakness, so I wanted to test print 1x section first, as I am also new to CAD and 3D printing, I have attached my first Print, still needs some tweaking in design, but measures well on the WOW factor, after fitment test, I will then re-print the parts in Carbon/Nylon, and throw some high heat etching primer and paint on them. the Parts can be endless, I can print Headlight Buckets, Tail Light Lenses (with ruby red transparent filaments), Mounts, dash vents, handles, turn signals, etc... I will eventually have a 1937 Pontiac SilverStreak 224 Parts List, sister car of the Chevy Master 6

Forum Members, I've been researching both this Forum and the web, even my parts book but can't seem to find the right terminology for my project part .. Will post pics as soon as the wheels are off the car (currently on frame for rolling around).. There is a thin metal backing plate that the lug nuts slip into then that is placed on the drum, I think it's to hold them in place? Mine are thin, and could do for a replacement, Replaceable? Custom fabrication?, where a shop can cut out a few rings and drill bolt pattern out? Thoughts? 37 Pontiac SilverStreak (CDN) 4 door sedan, Sister car of the Chevy master 6

Forum Members, I have started my renos again, love the feedback and posts as they really help me.. I have 2x starters, and about to replace and / or flip my flywheel over (some minor teeth damage).. I am unsure the voltage of the 2 starters as I was bad and forgot to label them when moving to new house) as 1 was from a 1937 216 (this is 6v) and the other came with the swapped engine of 1948 235.. I think they are both 6v.. Car is going 100% 12v.. I'm willing to replace them, I'm willing to rewire them, I'm willing to keep then, do I need a reducer?

Thanks to all that chimed in, I'm starting to work on engine again and all tips will help.. will post final results to maybe close thread

Sorry, yes its s small copper ring for the pitman, pitman shaft is solid, I was just worried about the rubber seal and leaking but almost all my research (like you said) is a thick fluid type grease that flows but doesnt leak.. (new to all this, Im an IT guy) I have the original manuals etc, shop and parts book... appreciate the feedback, and Penrite was on my list... like 800/900 or even 1200 weight "semi-fluid grease"... Cornhead Grease, poly urea based NLGI 0EP grease... ill look back to the manual and post my results, not to keep on this topic :) but very appreciative

Thanks for all the tips in this thread.. I too tried to research this heavily.. my 1937 steering box with a pitman arm, has a loose copper seal.. just a small gear like operation so I dont think fluid is used...and when restoring this section, the grease (history if it was ever changed etc not known) looked like grey peanut butter with mica in it.. and now ready to refill her but with..???.... appreciate all the pointers..

Wicked idea.. never even thought of that route, bending and installing my own gas and brakes, etc.. thanks, appreciated

Hello Enthusiasts.. As my project is resuming, ready to hibernate in the garage and continue the restoration.. I saw some car lovers use braided stainless steel hydraulic lines for the oil.. I liked the idea of this, Any thoughts good or bad on if these are good to use? I have a GM 1948 Straight 6 235 ...

Thanks, yep.. I think it might be a Texaco Oil Pump.. or known as a lubester pump.. kinda cool.. dr. Google says used for a lot of applications.. mostly for motor oil..

Acquired this unique pump (gas, oil?).. era is apx 1935 to 45? Could be 50's? It's working with pressure... What is it? Used for?

Wow great feedback... thanks!.

Hello, I have decided that my car will be converted to a 12v system, all new wires as I have the car fully accessible.. Seen some great videos on building a fuse block with relays, terminals and boards on ABS plastic.. weatherproof etc.. But often wondered.. I have seen both ways done in antique cars.. some have in engine bay, others wire them in under the dash.. some do both as a split.. What would you recommend? All I'm running is lights, heater, dash gauges, small indicator lights wipers horns and maybe in the future the original radio.. Thanks

Thanks, that's a great idea, never thought of that.. Will post results when done