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old_Art

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  1. Hi all, I just turned up an original Edmunds 4 barrel air cleaner that has markings of "QUAD" and "LIN 52." After my research, it appears that Lincoln didn't run a 4 barrel until 1953. The carb that was used was a Holley 2140 "teapot." The air cleaner appears to be unmodified. The air cleaner is too big to fit properly on an early Carter WCFB with the small 4 7/32" air cleaner base, but will fit on a modern Edelbrock or Holley that take a 5 1/8" base air cleaner. Does anyone have a 2140 sitting around that they could measure the air cleaner base size?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Art P.S. If you're curious, the smaller of the two in the first picture, is an unmarked Edmunds that does fit the smaller 4 7/32" base carbs. It's NOT a copy of an Edmunds, it IS an Edmunds!
  2. A little late for the party, but for everyone's future reference, alsancle's manifold IS a Pontiac 8. The giveaway is the linkage pin on the outside of the manifold.
  3. Edmunds parts just seem to find me! I'm pretty good at identifying his intakes and heads, but I've never had a Nash 2 carb head before. Edmunds made 2 of them. One for the Nash Rambler 1946-52, and one for the Statesman 1950-52 (According to his 1952 catalog). They may both be the same head, but they have different catalog numbers. Typical of Edmunds equipment, it has no part number or ID. It measures 22 5/8" x 8 1/4". Rambler or Statesman (Or both)? I've just finished restoring it and I'd love to know. Picture attached. Thanks in advance. Art
  4. Hudson 6, and that's not a guess. This is one I restored for a customer.
  5. Due to space limitations, I can only upload 2 pictures here. If you're interested in this you can see all 24 pictures of it on ebay. Do a search for 293646039310 and you'll find them. This ad reflects those additional pictures. This is an Edelbrock L300 3x2 intake that fits Mercury, Edsel, and Lincoln (MEL) engines that are 383, 430, or 462 cubic inch engines from 1958 to 1966. It is absolutely flawless and I'd rank it as one of the top 3 restorations I've ever done. It looks like new. I've even restored the dull polish on the logos that Edelbrock put on them at their factory. There is virtually zero erosion on it. There are close up pictures of all the water contact surfaces down below so you can see that for yourself. Every thread on it is perfect and original. Every one of them has been chased and checked, including the big NPT fitting bosses. It really is flawless. The carburetors that come with it need to be rebuilt. They are a matched set of three Holley 2100's (Over the counter version of 94's) List 1283AAS. They were obviously all bought at the same time for installation on this manifold. All still have the original Holley ID tags on them. They have obviously seen very little use. I really hesitate calling them cores. I don't think that they are what we generally consider “cores.” I'm not sure you'll be able to see it on your monitor, but they all have excellent color and I'm 99% sure they'll clean up perfectly and look new. They all have heat operated chokes. The end ones were adjusted to stay open all the time and the center one is an operational choke. Here's what you need to know about them. The choke shafts all move freely. The throttle shaft on one of them moves, but the accelerator pump is sticking. The throttle shafts on the other to are not moving. I disconnected the accelerator pump linkage on one of them and it moves freely. Stuck accelerator pumps are fairly common on Holley's. As a matter of fact, if you go to youtube and search “rebuild Holley 2100” you'll see one from Mike's Carburetors that he had the exact same stuck accelerator pump problem on. Speaking of Mike's Carburetor's, this set up also comes with three excellent brand new rebuild kits from the same Mike's Carburetor's that I highly recommend. The only rust I can find on them, besides the normal light surface rust that shows up on the unpainted, unplated cast iron bases, is some at the accelerator pump link on the center carb. As with everything, there is a close up picture of that area on the one carb. The very last picture down below is of the three new carb kits I'm including with it. The price is $1,100 plus the shipping. I will accept US Postal Service Money Orders, as well as PayPal. Please contact me for a shipping quote.
  6. Desperately need a source for 2 base (carburetor to manifold) gaskets for water heated Carter WCD carburetors used on 1951-53 Chrysler 2 barrels on 331 Hemi's. Thank you in advance for any help. Art
  7. Charles, I stand corrected. As you said, he did make a head for the Pontiac 8. I had it backwards. He never showed a head for a Pontiac 6 in his catalogs. Moral? Don't work from memory when you have documentation. Art
  8. A little late but........... Edmunds made dual carbs for Pontiac 6 and 8's. 6's came in 2x1 and 2x2 (3 bolt Stromberg style). 8's came in 2x2, one version using Pontiac 4 bolts, and the other version used Stromberg 3 bolts. Edmunds also made a finned aluminum head for the 6, but never for the 8. Just thought I'd post this as a reference for future searchers. Here's some pictures of a Pontiac 8 I restored last year wearing Stromberg WW carbs.
  9. If mine had been on a car in 1953, it would probably also look like that. Art
  10. Without going into the long, convoluted story of how I ended up with this carburetor, I'll just tell you what I have. It is a brand new Carter WGD-2052S. It is an original 1953 production version that was probably originally purchased from a Kaiser dealer in 1953. Unlike the other one that I've seen on eBay, search for item # 400801135141, this one makes no mention of 1954 Kaiser or 1954 Willys. It merely says it fits 1953 Kaiser Dragon, Model K-530, DeLuxe, Model K-531, and Manhattan, Model K-532. That states to me that this is one of the original production run of these in 1953. The Good: This carburetor is brand new and has never been mounted or run. It is still in its original Carter packaging. The Bad: One flap on the box is torn off, but still there and the original label is 98% intact. I would assume that it originally came with instructions for adjusting the idle speed and mixture, but it is gone along with the carburetor to manifold gasket that was probably with it. There is some very light oxidation on the plating on the top of the choke butterfly. Other than that, it looks like it did the day it was manufactured. The price is $500.00 delivered to your door by FedEx anywhere in the lower 48 States. For Alaska, Hawaii, and international shipping, please contact me for a shipping quote. If you have any questions, please contact me by PM. Art
  11. Hi Bob, The picture of the manifold did the trick. It was buried under 3 vacuum lines, wiring for the vacuum sensor, wiring for the carb AC step up solenoid, engine hoist loop and heater hose fitting. If that wasn't enough, the loom tape on the vacuum sensor wiring had partially unwound and completed the burial. I'm installing a 3" nipple with a "T" fitting on the top and the 2 sensors will screw into the "T". I'll bleed the air after it's installed. The only mods I'll have to make is a 1/4" hole and grommet to get the wiring for the Stewart Warner gauge into the cabin. It will be easily removable and the only residual damage will be the 1/4" hole that I'll plug. All is well. Thank you again for your help, Art
  12. Hi Bob, Thank you, but it flat out isn't there. The only thing going into the water crossover on the manifold is the vacuum switch. Looking at it again inspired me to go further. I believe I found it on the back of the left head. Looks like a temp sensor and has a single pale green wire with a slip on connector going to it. Definitely looks like it's going into the water jacket in the head. I also will take your advice and get the CD of the service manual. Art
  13. Hi and Help! Where is the coolant temperature sensor located? There is a monstrosity threaded into the right side of the coolant crossover on the intake manifold. It has two wires plugged into the top and vacuum lines entering and leaving it below. Looks to be 1/2" NPT threads going into the manifold. Every listing for a replacement that I can find shows a picture of a very normal looking sensor. The part I'm looking at is anything but normal looking. I'm hoping what I'm seeing is NOT the temperature sensor but some smog control sensor. I have no faith in the two stage idiot light and I want to hook up a Stewart Warner gauge so I can see what temps it's actually running at. I've had the car for about 7 years and this is mainly what's keeping me from driving it on anything but really short local trips. Thanks in advance, Art
  14. Any interest?? I'm in the process of restoring an intake off a 41-42 Buick small block straight 8. Includes original Carters, progressive secondary valve, primary spacer block, and air cleaner. Carters are currently being rebuilt and the starter switch is still there (Don't know if it works or not). Manifold will be primered as I have been told 41 and 42 ran different engine colors. No linkage or fuel lines. Air cleaner appears perfect with no major dents or dings. It hasn't been stripped yet so I'm not 100% sure about small stuff on it. It appears to be complete. Original center wing nut is still there, but outers that go on carb center studs are gone. All 8 original carb studs are still there and undamaged. I would much prefer to keep the set up intact, but I may be willing to separate the carbs from the set up as I am also in process of restoring an Edmunds 2x2 for Roadmaster/Century straight 8's and I can use the carbs on that one. Contact me at acassel at netscape.net. Spammers, please don't waste your time or mine. Additional information: No tags on either carb. Old time rebuilders had a bad habit of throwing them away. I don't claim to be a Buick expert, but I do know enough to know they are original carbs. Primary has starter switch and secondary doesn't have accelerator pump. Crustiness of manifold and carbs established the were together for many decades. Air cleaner was surprisingly clean. Art
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