it just up and died in the middle of the street!!

[Guest TommyH]

ok, so pa and i took a quick trip down to the walgreens. as i was driving home, i slowed a little, then the engine pretty much stalled. it went completely dead. the dash just stoped working. this has never happend to me before. the hazard light bearly even flashed. so i called mom, and some people that i think i go to school with gave us a jump. about a block.5 later, my dad who was driving now slowed to a stop again, and it died, but we still had enough momentum to pull almost into a parking lot. mom was following, and dad took the van and got the truck, cuz the batteries in those vans are impossible to get to. got the truck, and got home. i am really getting tired of this. almost every time i go driving, i have to put it back on the charger when i get home. what should i do? sell it and buy a new one? or replace something. any help ASAP would be greatly appreciated.

tommy

[Guest CL_Reatta]

Try replacing you ICM, had the same problem before I bought my Reatta

[Guest EDBS0]

Your battery could be toast and not keeping or taking a charge. A parts store can check it out.

Your alternator could also be weak.

Check to see how many volts it is charging at.

May also be an internally corroded battery cable. Much written about that here.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I agree with EDBSO. Battery, alternator, or cables/connections, especially with you saying that the hazard lights barely worked.

[Guest TommyH]

the battery is new. the alternator charges at 11.5-13.1 volts, at idle(650-800rpm)

and the whole engine get pretty hot.

[Guest EDBS0]

Dead cell in the battery.

Most likely cables. Corrosion gets under the insulation and eats the cable away.

I know that it can be frustrating but once running well again a Reatta can be low maintenance.

[Guest TommyH]

had worse problems when it was the old bettery. we cleaned the cables for at least 20 minuteswith baking soda, or powder,i dont remember. my dad thought it was the battery, so we changed it, and it hasnt been on the charger as much.but other than that,i dont know. i think my dad is making an appointment somewhere, but i would prefer to save sum bux if i can. especialy if it is something simple. and should the engine temp be 210 at idle? cuz thats what its been at recently. but i dont know normal temps for em, so im asking now.

thanks

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Possible that there's a fault in the cable somewhere.

Could the "central grounding system" ground point near the battery be an issue? What do you think EDB?

210 is about normal for stock, though in my opinion, stock is too hot. I'd at least switch to a 180 degree thermostat.

I'm suspecting a bad altnerator cable

[Guest TommyH]

would it also mean anything if the ar told me it had a charging problem right as it was dieing?

[Guest EDBS0]

there have many recent problems with corrossion under the cable insulation. I would look there.

Most shops will test a battery and alternator for free or just about nothing.

I believe the high cooling fan will only come on at 225. padgett has written much on this

Stolen from another post ... "(thermostat goes from closed to fully open 195 - 210, and low speed fan kicks in at 214). Never see it hit 220 - so I don't even know if the high speed fans kick in at 226. In fact, when the low speed fan kicks in, it usually drops quickly back below 200. FYI, I keep the gage screen displayed 95% of the time."

I think you are normal.

So get some free tests and be prepared to fabricate a replacement battery cable.

[Guest TommyH]

welli cant go about replacing everything on this car. my dad thinks its the lternator that has gone bad. it seems to make a whine when running. what should i get to replace it, and how many amps or whatever they call it should be the minum? and where have you guys had good quality with a low price?

[Guest TommyH]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So get some free tests and be prepared to fabricate a replacement battery cable. </div></div>

this i told my dad and he said"no, we already know that the battery is good." i think he is afraid it wont make it to the auto zone or where ever he wants to take it.

[Guest DTerry]

It sounds as if the alternator is not putting out enough.

Put the volt meter on the battery. You should see something just over 12 volts. Fire up the engine and you should see 13-14 volts. If not, the alternator is bad. If so, then the battery is bad, or you have a faulty connection somewhere.

Simplest way is to swap a known good battery into it and see what happens. Take the alternator in to a parts store (or Wal-Mart or Sears) and have it checked. It's a simple 10 minute job to remove it, including finding the right tools.

And even new batteries (and alternators and etc.) sometimes fail. I think it was Padgett who described it as "infant mortality".

And, by the way, changing to a lower temp opening thermostat will not affect the max temp, only the minimum temp. Whether the thermostat opens at 180 or 150, it only does just that. Opens. Means only that the coolant doesn't circulate until it reaches minimum thermostat opening temperature. The max temp will remain unchanged. That depends upon a whole bunch of other stuff. I replaced all the replaceable items in the cooling system - including the radiator - and flushed thoroughly, and haven't seen 210 since. Everything stock.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

You gotta get the system tested son. Take an extra battery if you're uncertain it'll make it to Autozone.

I think the stock alternators are 90 amps, of which a store will probably sell you. Don't need any more unless you're into like running a 2k watt amp or inverter at idle

[padgett]

It is common for an alternator to whine at full charge.

"11.5-13.1" is way too low. anything under 13 means either a shorted cell in the battery or a dysfunctional alternator

One other thing to check - the HVAC blower has been known to short which turns the heater fan on and it draws the battery down really fast. This should not stall at idle or when driving.

What you describe is the computer losing power (dash goes blank) but is not specific to the Reatta, almost any car will act this way if the voltage drops far enough.

I would probably start with a DVM connected to the cigarette lighter (have a little LED gadget that plugs in there.

[Guest TommyH]

my cigarette lighter doesnt work, so that wont do anyhing.the strange part was that the first time, the lgiths flashing were bearly visable, but the trunk light sone brightly. everything was dead. the security light and check engone light were almost not there. and it was a sudden stop. it was working, i was slowing, then it just turned off, like some1 turned off the ignition. but the second time, the battery wasnt completely dead, it was between 8-9 volts, cuz i tried it while my dad was getting the truck. but the first time,it was completely dead. it make no sence. i started it up just fine, when a few hundred yards, and it was dead, but the second time we went a blok or two. adn the second time, it told us that thier was a charging system error or problem,then it cut out. if i wanted torun a 2k amp orinverter, what should i get? and i dont have aspare battery just layiing around.

[padgett]

"if i wanted torun a 2k amp orinverter, what should i get?" buying stock in a hearing aid company would be a good hedge. Beyond that RV stores can provide additional batteries and power distribution systems.

Meanwhile the stock 105-120 amp alternators are plenty for the car itself. It really sounds like something is wrong in the charging system (which is all stock GM) - battery, wiring, alternator - and given an Ohio location, corrosion in the wiring is common.

However, apparently you have no problem starting after a jump, it just does not run for long. That and the low voltage really sounds like a bad alternator.

There are apparently two different alternators: a large frame (spark plug wires will not fit underneath) and a small frame (plug wires will fit). The large frame seems to last forever, the small frame about 18 months.

If you buy a replacement, look for a local store and a lifetime warrenty.

Good news is that the alternator is about the easiest thing on the engine to change, you just need a two foot long 18mm box end wrench to remove the serpentine belt.

[cal55]

It sounds like the alternator to me too. I had a 92 LeSabre that went threw about 3 alternators, at least their easily changed. Like mentioned in the previuos posts take it off and have it checked at your local parts store.

Joe

[Guest F14CRAZY]

You'd need to find a custom alternator shop. They can build like a 200 amp (idle) alternator

[manikmekanik]

Don't forget to check your serpentine belt, and crank pulley!

They also can cause poor charging, and sometimes don't make a racket, 'till they break!