Wiring short on starter switch - close call

[KAD36]

In pursuit of my compression test (see prior post ), I had a bit of an episode in the garage over the weekend. I hooked my remote starter switch up to the carb starter switch, the idea being to hit the button and crank the motor so I could read the compression tester. So I hooked up the remote switch to the terminals on the carb and slipped behind the wheel to turn the ignition on.

Little did I realize that one of the clips slipped and touched the carb, creating a direct short. Imagine my utter shock when I turned the key on and smoke poured out from under the dashboard and the engine compartment. I totally fried the starter switch wires! The circuit from the ignition switch, to the neutral safety switch (hot line - pink wire in your schematic) and from the neutral safety switch to the carb (yellow wire in the schematic) is not protected by a fuse! So my afternoon was spend ripping the entire dash assy out to the firewall, finding all the fried wires in the harness, and re-runing new wires, then reinstalling the entire dash assy.

I put an in line 10 amp fuse (for now) in line with the Neutral safey switch on the pink wire (14 ga in the wiring schematic) to protect the starter switch circuitry in the event of another accidental mishap.

Just thought I'd pass this on so others don't have the same "learning experience" from the school of hard knocks!

[BamaWildcat]

Don't ask me how I learned the unfused lesson. This one was in regards to an I/P circuit in my Wildcat. After having to replace the I/P circuit board, there is now an inline fuse in circuit.

[Guest strait8]

After parking my 39 buick in my garage that has many tools plus an 85 mercedes and a Triumph Stag in it also, I noticed the amp gauge discharging slightly.I first thought the pointer just stopped a little off center and was about to close up the garage when I decided to look under the hood after the gauge still didn't move after tapping the dash. I was shocked to find flames burning on the steering column above the brake switch which also had fire around the terminals.

After smothering the flames I found the switch too hot to touch and stayed that way still drawing current but not lighting the brake lamps. A new switch fixed the problem ,but the scary part is how easy it is too ignore a slightly off center amp meter resulting in a real serious loss.

I would strongly suggest if anything smells or appears abnormal , check it out carefully.

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