Valve Adjustment

[dodge55]

Good Afternoon Everyone,

A follow-up question to the 'engine timing' question. I need to adjust the valve lifters to eliminate some valve lash in my 37. I read in my old Chilton's manual that this is best done with the engine warm and running. How difficult is the operation? I don't want to wreck anything. Thanks.

Steve

[Guest imported_woodwheels]

There is no reason to do it hot unless you are fond of burning flesh, besides the manifolds are in the way. Remove the carb then the exhaust pipe then the manifolds together. Now the cover plates are accessable and you will have room to do the three wrench dance,with feeler gauge. Add .002 for a cold setting to the .006 and .008 called for. Make sure the engine is stone cold. Replace all gasgets new and enjoy the performance. Jim Cook 33-DP technical advisor DBC.

[dodge55]

Jim,

Thanks for the help. It will be one of the jobs on the car this weekend. Could you also answer this question: How do I hook-up a 12 volt Tach, Dwell meter? I want to check RPMs and dwell, just not sure of the connections since 6 volt car and positive ground. Thanks again.

Steve

[34 Dodge]

Jim,

When I last tested my 6-volt 1934 Dodge, I connected the meter to a 12-volt source.

[hwellens]

I assume you are talking about a 37 Dodge not a 55 Dodge. I have a 38 Dodge and all I do is take off the passenger side wheel, the inner fender panel and the valve covers, I can get to the lifters fine. To take off the carburator and exhaust system seems like overload

[Guest imported_Terry kean]

I have also read the two different versions of adjusting the valves. One says adjust them hot, the other says to adjust them hot with the motor running. Has anyone ever adjusted the valves on a flathead while it was running?

[Guest imported_woodwheels]

Valve adjustments cold are so much easier cold than hot much less running. A feeler gauge used on a running engine is rendered inaccurate in a short time. Look at one used this way and you will see the surface of the feeler pounded hard, no longer smooth and accurate in its thickness. With the inner fender panel removed you will still have a difficult time with #6, because of the exhaust manifold neck bend at the exhaust pipe connection. "33s have no inner fender panel. Also personal preference is to work from the top instead of from beneath and around the frame. If you choose to work from down under make sure you support the vehicle safely. The dwell/tach meter I use connects to 6v and 12v. For a + ground vehicle put the red lead to the ground and the black one to the distributor side of the coil. For a 4 cyl double the 8 cyl reading. Jim Cook '33 DP technical advisor DBC

[dodge55]

Good Morning,'

And thanks for the info. I am refering to a 1937 Dodge. My first car was my Grandfather's 1955 Dodge. I think I'll change my log-in name. It tends to cause confusion when talking about the 37. I will access the valves from underneath, as the inner fender panel is already off to work on the car. I'll go the cold method, since I'm sure something or someone will get hurt with the engine running. Thanks for the dwell / tach hook-up. I hooked mine up as if a negative ground, and the needle just slowly rose to the top of the scale, not reading the dwell. I am hoping to do the work this weekend and will post the results. Thanks.

Steve Vicker

1937 Dodge