dodge55

I had the top re-done be a local seamstress. Tires and tubes are from Bike Line. Ribbed rubber flooring is from a local carpet dealer. Engine is being re-built again by a local Clinton enthusiest. I re-did the wiring harness myself with THHN stranded wire. Headlight was from Napa. I did the seat and backrest myself, along with the body work and paint. I still need to find someone to brass plate the pot metal headlights. Everything else just needed a clean-up and re-paint.

Thanks. It sure does help. I have the wagon model. Fun little car. Great for parades. Does anybody know how many were made and might be left? I know the Olds Club in Florida has one, Disney had one, the Phila Wax Museum had one, and I've talked to two people who have one.

Good Evening, I have Curved Dash Merry Olds made by Air Products Corp in Florida in 58 / 59. The car is fully restored, with the original (rebuilt) Clinton engine. Anybody else have one, or can give me a little more history than what I've dug up? Anything would be helpful. Thanks.

Good Evening, I just received a new clutch disk for my 37 and was wondering if there are different disks for the same car. The size is 10". The original (which I still have) has a center section (slides over the shaft on the trans) that sticks out from either side of the disk about 3/4". The new one only sticks out on one side, and is flush to the disk on the other. The six springs are configured differently as well (not as tight to the center as the old disk). Not sure if they sent me a disk for a later model or if they are universal. It will fit the trans shaft. Thanks.

Good Evening All, The radiator I ordered for my 65 Impala just showed up and it doesn't fit. My car has the 283 and has a 5" wide metal reducer shroud that holds a smaller radiator. The radiator that I ordered is about 26" wide. What I have is about 24" wide. I could possibly rig something up, but the radiator would be too far from the fan and the transmission lines would be too short. Where do I get the right size smaller radiator? Thanks.

What is the correct level of gloss for a 37 Dodge frame? The body comes off this weekend and the frame gets a re-paint. I painted the frame without taking the body off 2 yrs ago and used a satin black. Looks good, but could be better (couldn't clean all the nooks and crannies with the body on, plus needs new body mounts, putting in new engine and painting the firewall). Thanks. Steve V

Thanks for the info. That's the answer I was hoping for. I am putting a 37 Plymouth engine in my 37 Dodge since the Dodge has a cracked block and Plymouth engines were readily available in my area. I still have the Stromberg carb from the Dodge. Should I use that, or keep the Carter with the Plymouth? Thanks. Steve V

The carb a BBR-1. From the pics I've seen, all looks good as to the assembly and linkage connections.

Does anyone know how the accelerator pump should function in a Carter carb? In the Stromberg, the pump seems to activate after the throttle has been somewhat depressed (throttle plate opens with no tension, then spring tension from pump is felt). The Carter seems to have spring tension right away from pump, then no tension after fully open, just the opposite from the Stromberg. In other words: Stromberg; throttle begins to open then pump kicks in. Carter: pump kicks in right away as throttle plate opens (spring to throttle linkage actually keeps pump spring in check). Thanks. Steve V

Is there a difference in thermostats between a 37 Dodge and 37 Plymouth? I'm putting a 37 Plymouth engine in my 37 Dodge and noticed the goose neck on the Plymouth as well as the goose neck studs are different (shorter in length) than the Dodge. The Dodge has a taller (thicker) goose neck base, requiring longer studs / bolts. The Plymouth head has studs that I'm a little hesitant to try to take out. The Dodge had longer bolts. Can I run the Plymouth without a thermostat (thats how it came)or just get the correct size thermo? Thanks. Steve V

Thanks for the info. I will take the flywheel off of the Dodge and put it on the Plymouth engine and order a 10" clutch package (I need to buy a clutch anyway). That way if I ever find a Dodge engine, the clutch will be done. Any place better than another for clutches? Steve V

Follow-up question the the one I posted earlier: The 1937 Plymouth engine I am putting into my 37 Dodge has a 9-1/4" clutch. The Dodge engine I am taking out has a 10" clutch. Do I use the 9-1/4", or put the Dodge flywheel on the Plymouth engine and use a 10" clutch? The flywheels measure the same, but obviously the clutch bolt holes are different. I am using the Plymouth engine w / the Dodge trans, but need to order a clutch package. Also, why the different sizes? Thanks. Steve V

Thanks for the info. I knew the Plymouth engine was smaller , which will translate into slightly less horsepower (87 vs 84) but around here at least (Phila, PA), the only engines I could find were Plymouths. I got this one from Pittsburgh. I wanted an engine I could physically look at and there were no Dodge engines within a realistic drive. But with the condition of my Dodge engine, 84 hp will be a considerable improvement. I'll get the parts ordered. Thanks again.

I am finally getting around to replacing my 37 Dodge engine (cracked block) with a 37 Plymouth engine. I am using my Dodge trans, but putting in the Plymouth engine, bell housing etc. I assume I should order a clutch system for the Plymouth engine? Its a 9 1/4" clutch. Also, are the motor mounts the same for the Plymouth and Dodge? I've noticed that there are price differences between the Dodge and Plymouth parts (from the same supplier) and was wondering why. After I install the new clutch, the engine should bolt right up to the Dodge trans? Thanks Steve V

Thom, thanks for the info. I was leaning towards the tinted, but wanted to be sure tinted was original. I'll give Siemers Glass a call. I had gotten prices from Classic Auto Glass (the Glassman, in CA) and the tinted is not much more than the clear. It would be helpful to have a couple of prices to compare. Thanks again. Steve

I am going to order a complete glass kit for my car and was wondering if the original glass was clear or had that green tint to it? Thanks. Steve Vicker

I was wondering how often the trans filter needs to be changed. I have a 65 Impala which I bought 2 years ago. Car has 62000 original miles on it, but only had 1200 miles put on the car in the 10 years before I bought it. Car runs great, trans fluid is nice and pink w / no odd smell to it. Does sludge build up from sitting? The car was always maintained, but I have no idea what if any service was done on the trans. Thanks. Steve Vicker

Good Morning All, Following up on the other gas tank question, how do I avoid condensation in my 37 gas tank? I had a few pin holes in the bottom, so I pulled the tank and soldered them. But when I pulled the gas tank sending unit (to help vent the fumes, which I did for about a week before putting a flame to the tank) I noticed an oval shaped rust spot in the bottom of the tank (about the size of a small hoagie roll). The rest of the tank was good. Since water is heavier than gas, does the condensation pool at the bottom of the tank causing the rust, even with gas in the tank? Is there a product that eliminates the water? How about gas tank sealers? Other than the fixed pin holes, tank is in great shape. Thanks. Steve V

Good Afternoon, Anywhere close to Phila, PA? Engine running? Thanks. Steve

Good Afternoon, The engine id # is to the left of the oil breather, directly above the front left freeze plug. There should be a flat spot on the block where the number is stamped.

Personally I think 'restored' should refer to the condition of the car when new, from the factory, sitting on the dealers lot / showroom. Nothing more, nothing less. OK, maybe some modern gaskets, seal material etc., but the car should look and run as it did the day it was manufactured. I knew one guy that was restoring a '63 Vette to 'factory' condition: matte black frame, chaulked 'x' marks on the frame showing how many shims were used at the body to frame mounts, slight orange peel under the rocker panels (area often missed when sprayed) etc. He had done his homework and when he was done with the car, it was as correct as it could be according to Chevy specs. Don't forget the cars we're talking about were made by people, long before computers and robots did the work. Perhaps some new words should be introduced, such as 'refurbished' or 'modernized' or 'upgraded'. Restored should be reserved to those special few that deserve the title. Steve V (1937 D5)

Good Afternoon, Did you try the Carburetor Shop.com? The site is amazing. They have sections on troubleshooting as well as listings of carburetors as they apply to each year car. When you get to the site, click on 'passanger', then select your model car from the list, then look for your model number. Steve

Good Morning I have a 1937 D5, w / 600/16 bias ply tires and noticed in your post that you mentioned a reduction in noise. Will the bias plys contribute to the overall noise of the car? I haven't driven anything from the late 30's, and am not sure what sounds are common, and what sounds mean something is going wrong. Thanks. Steve

Good Morning All, I have a 1937 D5 w / a Stromberg carb. The problem is flooding. I took the carb apart, cleaned out about 1/8" of sediment, and put all new parts and pcs back in. Put the carb back on, and the car started right up, and actually sounded great (compared to the dirty carb). But no it floods easily. Ice cold engine and hot engine are OK, but in between I have to hold the gas pedal down to get it to start. Dist is good, timing 4 degrees ATDC, vacuum good, dwell 38, points 20. I have not checked the float level at idol, nor do I have any idea what the Winter / Summer setting does. I also do not have the collar on the gas pedal rod that the starter rod engages. I thought that might have been the problem (too much gas when starting) so I took it off. Also, when running, the engine loves to hover around 45 mph. Above that it seems to be straining. Any connection? Thanks. Steve

I had exactly the same problem. I took the unit apart and had found that whatever was used for lubrication had hardend from lack of use and would not let the internal swing arm go thru its cycle, stopping short of activating the valve for the opposite direction. I cleaned out the gunk, lubricated and now it works perfectly.