1940 Special-70,000 mile original

[Guest edalfa]

Hi,

I just bought a 1940 Special 4dr. The car is in great original shape. Seats are flawless, exterior has no rust just a few minor scrapes on the fenders. The paint is checked a bit but presentable. My question is how much can you replace and still consider it original? There are a few areas of weatherstripping that need attention like the front vent windows and the cowl vent. The carpet is worn at the pedal area. Of course there are other things but these are the things that struck me initially. I'm asking because I want to keep my head clear when I start to work on it. I don't really want to replace stuff just because I can.

My next question is more general. What is the maximum safe speed that I can travel in this? Is it up to modern highway speeds? I know that I'll have loads of questions in the months ahead. I'll post a few pictures once I have them.

Thanks, Ed

[Guest imported_Thriller]

Congratulations.

As to your first question, I'll answer like a consultant - "it depends". If you want to enter it at a National Meet in the Archival class, you can touch up paint, but can't paint an entire panel, for example. To some people, having the original drivetrain (rebuilt or not), interior as factory, and in factory colour is considered "original". Just like dropping a 350/350 into a tri-five Chevy is considered by some to be "restored". The big question is going to be what is your use for the car. If you want to drive it and enjoy it as it is, leave it, repair only what needs repairing, and regular maintenance, and enjoy the car. That way, you won't be as panicky about parking lot door dings, for example. However, some people will look at a car with a patina and get snobbish or look down their noses at it - if you can take it, great.

This summer, we drove down to the national meet with the '62 Special and the '66 Wildcat. When filling up for gas, people would come up to me with comments about the Special being a great car, even though it needs work and a repaint. Meanwhile, the '66 had just come out of the body shop with a new vinyl top, shiny paint, and extensive rust repair.

It is your car, enjoy it as you want. I guess a couple more points to consider - something is truly original only once, and if you decide to work on it, you may not be able to drive it...I guess it depends on how you want to enjoy it.

I can't answer your question about speed, although if it is well-maintained, it shouldn't have any trouble with 55-60, but you may not feel comfortable on Interstates. I haven't driven anything of that vintage though, so my opinion isn't worth much.

[Guest]

If it is mechanically sound you can safely cruise at or above any posted speed limit in North America. Unless it has a high numerical differential (like would be used in a limousine) it should easily drive at 70 or 80 MPH. The sstraight eights were wonderful engines. I had four of them and the only weakness was their wrist pins. They rattle a bit but will last forever.

[Guest ewing]

I drive my 38 special on the highway at 60 to 70 mph and it cruises and sounds nice at 65.

As long as the car is mechanically sound, that straight 8 loves highway speeds.

[Mark Shaw]

My two cents..... I followed Everett Ayers in his 1941 Super coupe most of the way from Seattle to Rochester doing just over 60 mph with four people in his car. He actually went faster up hills, & was running only 10 mph slower than ther rest of the pack of 60's and 70's cars in the Buick caravan. The car had much more left in it with dual progressive carbs, but Everett was going for good mileage and going easy on his engine.

I have the first model of the straight 8 engine in my 1931-57, and I cruise at about 45 mph. The standard low rear end gear ratio limits my top end speed because I too want to go easy on my engine. You will soon know what speed your car likes when you get it out on the open road. Just don't push up the RPMs.

I fully agree with Derek's comments regarding restoration. I believe that my friend Bud Rex (who owns the fully restored original Seabiscuit 31 Buick) considers himself stuck with a car that is worth too much to drive. He always advises others not to restore good original drivers, because to do so would make the car too valuable to drive and enjoy.

[Guest edalfa]

Thanks. I kind of thought that highway speeds shouldn't be a problem. I should be able to post some pix this weekend (if I talk my wife out of her new camera for a bit). I'm really looking forward to using the car.

Ed Sheehy

[The Old Guy]

The rear ends form 1940 to 1955 are interchangable. You can remove the cast center section from your 40 which is either a 3.9 4.1 -4.4 and replace it with a V8 dynaflow unit. These are 3.3 3.6 and are MUCH more user friendly on the interstate. I have a 3.4 in my 40 and it cruises effortless at at 70+ all day.

[Guest DaveCorbin]

Dear Ed:

My 1938 Special is an odd ball in that it has the very rare self-shifter. So far as I know, there are about 10 left and mine's the only 2 door model 48. The rear end in those cars was installed at the factory and is a 3.615 (47/13) diff. Cruise is 75-80 all day and it has 92,000 original miles. At 55-60, it loafs around. The info that would get you a 3.4 sounds good. Be sure to get a suitable speedo adaptor so you don't get too many tickets !!

Regards, Dave Corbin

[Guest DaveCorbin]

Dear Ed:

Also, you should join the Buick Club of America. The free 30 word ad each month will save you more money than the cost of membership.

Regards, Dave Corbin

[Guest edalfa]

Thanks for all the info. Funny thing is , I printed out the BCA membership form last night and then read this today. I'm off to play with my car today!

I just found out that my great-grandfather had a similar car (1940 Super instead of a Special)that was kept in the same garage where my car is. History repeated itself without trying!

Ed Sheehy