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Joining the Club--My Reatta...


rhardy

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I have a red 1990 coupe, VIN 1G4EC13C4LB903023

I have the manual and I'm just beginning to get oriented with all this modern stuff. It might be described as my first modern car. I have to say I'm finding it all a bit intimidating. The car has plenty of problems.

I've already found this discussion list to be helpful. For instance, I've found Barney Eaton's custom washer fix for the headlights, And I found and took a suggestion to remove the serpentine belt to identify an engine noise (bad water pump).

Time to get started. It runs very badly unless I open it up. It's already got a new battery, and hood struts.

The IPC is intermittent, mostly off. The climate control head also tends to blank out momentarily. I've nonetheless managed to fire up the diagnostics:

E034ch

E044ch

E047h

B119h

B333-337h

B448h

B482h

B552h

R026h

The brake accumulator motor is simply unplugged, as it otherwise just stalls out if it manages to turn at all. So I'm putting off any more brake diagnostics.

I think the place to start is to replace the water pump, throw in an oxygen sensor, clean MAF and IAC, and try to check for leaks, then go back to diagnostics and see what happens.

I'm a little worried about that MAF code 034 since it comes first, but I did the ED21 air flow WOT test, and it seemed to go through a normal range, so I'm hoping it will clear up if I do the above.

Anyway, comments welcome. I forsee learning acronyms and tracing circuits out the wazoo, and I don't even have a test light. My metric tools are in short supply, too.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Welcome aboard. Add plugs and wires to your shopping list. At least the reatta is all metric and not a mix like most cars of that period. Check for a vacum leak at the pcv valve, the gaskets dry out and are a pita[popular acronym] to replace. </div></div>

Thanks. I saw mention of the potential PCV problem while perusing the list.

I should add that it was my mother's car from about '92 at about 126000 miles and it fell out of use for the last couple of years. I got the manual before I got the car.

My brother handled maintenance during that period, but I have no records. I know he changed the timing chain, because I saw him do it. I also know the old timing chain was perfectly good when it came out.

It's now got about 173000 miles on it, but I'm not sure if that's actual because the trip odometer at the very least does not tick over while the IPC is out.

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Guest CL_Reatta

Hi, welcome to the forum. In case you don't know the codes with an H at the end are not current, meaning that you probably don't need to worry about them. I'm not completely sure but your IPC problem sounds like a BCM problem since the BCM keeps track of the mileage not the IPC, someone more knowledgeable here can probably help you about this.

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Welcome. It's always good to have another on board. Misery loves company <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Try tapping on the MAF with the engine idling to see if it makes a difference to the idle quality. It may just be a severe vacuum leak to cause the expected MAF reading to be way out of range to set a code, although I haven't ever seen that happen. Do you actually have brakes with the boost pump inoperative?

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the main price list sais that they charge $7.50 for a master cyl., but since it's electronic they may charge you just a bit more. But as cheap as it's going to be I really think it would be worth it to try it out. OH YEAH! the car also had 2 sets of IPC's in it. one in the dash, and one in the trunk. I saw it all there yesterday. (10/3/06)

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi, welcome to the forum. In case you don't know the codes with an H at the end are not current, meaning that you probably don't need to worry about them. </div></div>

Yup. Except that the h is not very long, since I replaced the battery just the other day. And a lot of the codes seem to relate to the BCM if I recall...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm not completely sure but your IPC problem sounds like a BCM problem since the BCM keeps track of the mileage not the IPC, someone more knowledgeable here can probably help you about this. </div></div>

Entirely possible. In any case, I think I'll save that one for last since it sounds like it'll be even more fun than the brakes.... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Yup, I do have brakes, sorta; I'm just worried I'll break the seat. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Oh, I'm in Minnesota.

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Just a quick followup--I replaced the O2 sensor for $17, and the engine runs smoothly.

Code 34 was immediately reset, and everything points to replacing the MAF sensor for $249. Ouch. Voltage and continuity to the sensor as described in the E034 diagnostic check out OK, but I haven't figured out how to confirm closed loop operation. I'll get back to it on Wednesday.

Tapping makes no difference, nor does unplugging the sensor. Does that mean I'm on open loop?

Can a vacuum leak at the PCV account for the problem? That would certainly be a cheaper fix, though it looks like the PCV is a PITA to get at.

I also bought a water pump, but prior to starting in on that, I had to go for a test drive with the new O2 sensor. Result--the water pump noise went away!

So now I have an extra water pump, for the time being.

And now, off to work.

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