Can main bearings be replaced while the engine is in the car?

[Guest Kitskaboodle]

Can rod/main bearings be replaced while the engine is in the car?

Or.....must the engine be pulled??

Thanks, Kit / 90 Reatta Coupe

[shoreice]

PULL IT. It will be less work in the long run. Far easier on an engine stand/workbench than working up underneath the lift. Cleaner too, no oil dripping in your face. Also much better chance of the job being right with correct clearences and torque values. To answer your question: I don't know if they can be changed without pulling the engine,but probably not. What seems to be the problem?

[2seater]

I have not done so, but thinking about it, it may be possible. The torque converter will have to be able to slide far enough into the transaxle to allow the crank to drop down with the flex plate attached. The front cover and timing set would have to be removed as well. Due to the design of the block, the main caps inset into the block (deep skirted block), and I do not see how the inserts could be removed unless the crank is pulled out. I believe it would be a real bear to do, and difficult to keep it as clean as it should be. The engine can be pulled in an afternnon by one person if you know what you are doing and is probably a better idea.

[RocketDude]

I would agree with the other guys that you would get a much cleaner, neater, easier job, if you pull the engine and put it on a stand to do it. Always best to do it that way.

However if pulling the engine isn't an option, it can be done in the car. If you can get the pan off, it can be done. You don't need to drop the crank. Pull one main cap at a time. there is a tool made, kinda resembles a nail, but made of aluminum. You put it in the oil hole drilled in the crank, and turn the engine. the head of the "nail" pushes the top shell right out. Install the new top shell in reverse. The bottom shell is easy. Plastagauge it, torque it down, and move on to the next one.

The rods, just do one at a time. Push the rod up from the crank an inch or so, and you can push the top shell out with your fingers, or put a small screw driver on the edge of the shell. it will come out easy. However, as you can see, it's a long involved process, and you will eat a lot of oil.

Like the guys above said, much better to pull the engine.

[shoreice]

Silly thought for early in the morning: did anyone look this up in the service manual? LOL Kenny

[Guest crtnrds]

I'm sure the SM says to pull the engine, but it also says you have to remove the timing cover to replace the cam magnet.

[shoreice]

How hard is it to pull the oil pan with the engine and trans in place? I don't remember if there is a crossmember or anything else in the way.

[Guest Kitskaboodle]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

To answer your question.......my mechanic said that when the engine is warmed up a bit it begins to make rod/bearing noises. He told me to use 20-50 oil, drive it nice an easy and it maybe it will last a while. Just before I bought it the previous owner had replaced the radiator. Perhaps it had overheated badly or got water in the oil...who knows? It seems to run fine otherwise.

I'm going to keep the car but it's going to do a lot of sitting in my driveway until I iron out all the problems. Perhaps this car will turn out to be just like my Fiero...a love/hate relationship?

Thanks, Kit / 90 Reatta Coupe

[DeeBee]

Ah yes, the Fiero. My 86GT needs exhaust header welding. I'm going to try to remove them while the engine is in.

Glad the Reatta doesn't suffer from those maladies. Sure like to have that 3800 in the Fiero though. Seems like lots of people write the ten easy steps but forget to include the other 40 that are real important.