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The big brake conversion (and this time, it's real).


Guest F14CRAZY

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Guest F14CRAZY

Uh oh, F14's making an It's Real thread. This is my trademark of seriousness. Sometimes we get brainstorming and speculating and stuff like that, which is just cool. The world otherwise wouldn't have any innovation.

But this time, it's real.

The trademark above assures you guys of a quality thread by me. Info, links, pictures, and even video if it applies. Also, I hope to leave no questions unanswered.

So why am I doing this...?

1. My dad and I agree that while stock braking is pretty good, it could be better. Reattas are heavy cars and capable of high speeds. We have properly-functioning Teves systems.

2. My rotors seem to be a little warped from when I made a panic stop from 70 mph on the freeway. First time I smelled them (about the worse smell ever, though I did once burn the clutch in my Explorer). As you guys know, I prefer to retrofit things if I'm replacing something. If its better, why not?

3. Cosmetics: those tiny rotors behind my hott 17'' wheels are odd.

Greg Ross once made a thread titled "Supercharge your brakes". This is the Google cache of it. The sear... working right. Linked to that was the site of an establishment called The Auto Shop which offers a kit to convert E-body (Tr...s, rotors, etc.

So, certainly, we can upgrade our front brakes. The site notes the stock size as 10.8'' (rotors) and the upgrade to be to 12'' rotors. All we have to do is drill out our mounting holes to 14 mm, and the rest bolts up. He noted they're prescribed for a 1997 Olds Aurora, and since I like those, we'll use that from now on when getting parts and all.

This is the interchange list for the '97 Aurora front brake calipers. NOTE: THIS IS FOR THE FRONT

This is the interchange guide for the '9...e more limited.

Interchange guide for the rear rotors. Interestingly, the '92 Toronado, a fellow E-body, is listed

Interchange guide for the '97 Aurora front rotors

Sorry if I skip around, but here's pics of the conversion on the Trofeo...

http://www.theautoshop.net/big.JPG

http://www.theautoshop.net/small.JPG

http://www.theautoshop.net/TrofeoBrake/P1010259.JPG

http://www.theautoshop.net/P1010253.JPG

Me/we still have several unanswered questions...

-Can the conversion be performed to the rear brakes (using rear Aurora brakes)? I agree that rear brakes don't do as much stopping as the fronts do, but it would certainly help, and look better (huge front brakes and tiny rears would look silly with exposing-wheels anyway).

-If it can be done to the rear, can stock 15'' wheels still be used? As the Auto Shop and Greg note, 16'' wheels or larger are required to clear the caliper (for the front at least). There would still be benefits from upgrading ONLY the rear brakes.

-If 15'' wheels can't be used with the rear, can '90 Select 60 or '91 16'' wheels be used?

-If we/I were to only upgrade the rears, would it be worth it? I've been thinking about it, and wouldn't it cut down on nosedive? This is a rather significant thought, since our motors and transmissions hang in front of our front axles.

<span style="font-weight: bold">So F14, what are you gonna do?</span> Tomorrow I'm going to go to Shroyer's salvage in Lansing and pickup a rear caliper/bracket and rotor from a '97 Aurora. We already know that the fronts can be done, so I'm going to start experimenting with the rears. This should be pretty cheap ($30?). I don't believe in buying and installing used pads and rotors, but at this point I simply want to see if it'll fit together fine. Not much of a hassle to remove a rear wheel and see how things look. If I have to drill holes or otherwise permanently modify my car, and I'm not certain if things will work, I'll ask for a volunteer with a parts car and ship the parts to them. Um, any volunteers? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />. I don't think this will be necessary though.

I think that's about it for now. I'll edit the post if I come up with anything else.

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Guest F14CRAZY

I might not finish or perform the conversion now, but I will still use the It's Real title. Why? Because I'm taking action and experimenting amid uncertainty of success.

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It is generaly not worth doing just the rear brakes. Usual order is front drums to front discs to bigger front discs [and change the master cylender and add an adjustable proportioning valve] and then change the rear drums to discs to bigger discs. Will the teves system compensate for just oversize rear discs? I don't know.Please be very careful on your first test stops. You might check the Brembo website for ideas. That said, the whole project looks very do-able.

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Guest F14CRAZY

Update: I called Shroyer this morning. They have the rear rotor ($15) and had to check on the caliper. They called me back this afternoon ans said they had one $25). I gave them the go-ahead to pull it and they will let me know when it's ready, I'm sure by this afternoon. For the first part of this experiment, I'm doing the driver's side rear.

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Has anyone ever tried the drilled and slotted discs offered for the Reatta on Ebay by various aftermarket firms? It seems they would be an effective and simplier way to go IF they signficantly improved performance. I was considering this route but had not yet made up my mind. I do know the Reatta discs look small on my see-thru 16-inch chrome rims. This does not mean I would change unless the aftermarket discs improved stopping distance.

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Guest F14CRAZY

When I do the fronts, I'd like to get cross-drilled rotors and performance pads from ebay. There's a seller that has some pretty good looking stuff as far as quality goes, and they're NOT cheap (cheap stuff=well, cheap stuff). There are some ebay deals that I would certainly avoid though, like the $20 calipers with pads on ebay <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

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Guest F14CRAZY

Exactly. They look awesome. And, I'll get that slight improvement.

Update: Shroyer's called me at 5:56 to say they had the caliper off and ready for my to pickup. They close at 6...thus I will be getting the parts tomorrow morning.

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Guest CL_Reatta

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Shroyer's called me at 5:56 to say they had the caliper off and ready for my to pickup. They close at 6 </div></div>

That shouldn't have been a problem for you.... you've got the speed to make it with time to spare now <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

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Guest F14CRAZY

I picked up the caliper and rotor today from Shroyer's. shoreice forgot to remind me, and it didn't come with the bracket <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />. I called them back and they said they don't sell them together (eye roll) and will give me a call back when it's pulled. I'm gonna go back outside and get a pic of the caliper, but attached is a pic of the Aurora rotor with the stock rotor.

I got thinking...could we just put the Reatta's front rotor and caliper on the rear, and the Aurora front caliper and rotor on the front? Aren't the bolt holes the same and all? Bad thing though is that we'd lose the parking brake which can come in handy when Teves needs a boost, or if one decides to have a manual transmission.

post-36538-143137907167_thumb.jpg

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Guest MauiWowee

Because approx. 75% of a vehicle's stopping ability comes from the front brakes, IMHO upgrading the rears does not accomplish much. I sure would not be willing to eliminate the parking brake to do so. But then you are F14, and far be it from me to either discourage you or doubt that you can pull it off. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

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Guest F14CRAZY

SUCCESS! The rear calipers are going to work! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

brake1.jpg

I put the bolts finger tight and didn't connect the lines or cables, but you can see that it looks good (aside from the rust)

brake2.jpg

Top view. I can get higher-rez shots if anyone requests.

brake3.jpg

View with a wheel on.

brake4.jpg

The other side (rear). You can tell that they're bigger. I'll try to remember to measure them.

For now, I'll put my stock stuff back on until I can get the hardware for the other side and properly prepare the set I've got. I'll get the rotors turned and some new, quality pads. I think I'll skip out on the drilled and slotted rotors for now due to $$$.

Can someone instruct me on how to service the calipers? I guess you're supposed to grease them. I haven't actually worked on brakes before (just removed them to do my front end service and once for the rear to replace some lugs).

At any rate, we're in business. I'm going to measure them, but from the looks of it, the rear Aurora rotors are larger than the Reatta's fronts. We're going to feel a difference.

BTW, money spent so far...

-used caliper: $25

-used rotor: $15

-used caliper bracket (not sold with caliper): $25

Shroyer's sells everything with a 30 day warranty (I bought a Rivi CRT from them a while back and it "sizzled" and they didn't give me any problems taking it back).

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Guest imported_dantm4

Hey F14,

I've been trying to follow your thread and I have a few questions. First of all - I like my 15" wheels but would like to have better braking. I know you have bigger wheels but I thought I read on a different thread (in a post by you) that the aurora conversion you are in the process of doing would still allow a 15" wheel. Is this true and would this work on the front? (since you're doing the back) Since I've only started working on cars since I've owned my Reatta, I'm not that familiar with everything yet - and it doesn't help that I can't just go out to the garage and work on it either. (live in apt) Sorry if these are simple questions, just wanted some clarification. Good luck on your projects!

-Dan

90' Black/Tan Coupe

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Guest F14CRAZY

According to Greg Ross, the brake conversion, if performed on the front, will not allow for the stock 15''s. I don't know by how much yet, since I don't have the front hardware yet. I forgot who, but someone suggested that maybe the caliper is barely too big, and could be machined down. I'm going to evaluate this when I get the parts.

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Guest F14CRAZY

Mmmm, Quiznos Prime Rib sub...

Anyway, I've ordered the rear brake hardware for the passenger side. I'm using a wire brush on a Dremel to clean up the caliper and bracket I have for the driver's side (no difference between them, but I have one and not yet the other). I'll then prime it with POR15, then some red caliper paint <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

They seem pretty rusty for a '95, but cars in salvage yards seem to just rust differently than driven vehicles. Ever notice that?

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Guest F14CRAZY

I obtained the passenger side hardware today. I got it all cleaned up and applied two coats of POR15 (by brush) to the caliper and bracket. Was careful not to get it inside or on the grommets. Will lightly sand it tomorrow and apply some bright red <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />.

I got thinking about what Brian said, and would be cool to put something on the calipers. Imma search ebay for some old, small Buick emblems. Not much room for a Reatta emblem or anything but will see what I can find.

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Guest F14CRAZY

I've fired off an email to an ebay seller that has a bunch of brake caliper stickers. I'm thinking either the '80s BUICK or the Reatta script. I'm leaning more toward the latter. Will keep you guys updated

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Guest F14CRAZY

Reporting back with an update. Will get pix this afternoon.

I've got the hardware wearing a couple coats of red caliper paint. Can't remember the brand at the moment, but sold in a rattle can at Autozone for $8 or so. I guess engine paint's not good enough due to the heat and corrosive brake dust. Will be finishing up the painting this afternoon. I've got some credit from stuff I'm returning to Advance and think I'm going to settle with the Wearever Gold pads. Will be replacing the bleeders too. Car's due for the semi annual brake bleeding anyway.

I'll see about borrowing the 100' tape measure from my dad and finding a remote stretch of road to do before and after tests on. Thing is that it has been raining the past couple days

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