Gas tank problem-old Buick

[pint4]

I am working on a 1933 Buick-Series 60. I removed the tank and brought it down to our local radiator shop. The cleaned it out with some sort of cleaner-acid bath or something similar. they then coated the tank inside with a coating-sort of orange or red in color. I installed the tank and didn't get 5 miles before the car was having problems with the fuel. We towed the car back to the garage and disconnected the line at the fuel pump. We blew compressed air into the line and made sure the line was cleaned out. The car ran again for about 10 minutes and again no fuel was getting to the fuel pump. We pulled the tank again and noticed the fuel pick up seems to be clogged. Baffles make it hard to see but we are guessing the filter on the end of the fuel pick up might also be clogged. The pick up line itself might also have some crud in it. Any ideas? Is there some way to remove the pick up line or can it be cleaned in the tank? I paid the radiator shop $150 to clean and coat the tank and it's still not right. I would like to drive the car yet this Fall so I would appreciate any help getting it back on the road.

Thanks.

[mrpushbutton]

pint4--I've had that process done, and it has worked quite well. drain the tank and take it back--I'm sure they will make good on it. you can try to run a piece of coathanger wire in the outlet fitting, but just take it back. It's their business, and they should stand behind their work.

[SMohr]

I encountered the same problem with my tank when I restored a 1974 VW Super Beetle. Had the tank cleaned and coated by a professional shop. Had the same symptoms you are having, drive a little then clog, drive a little then clog.... What I was finding is that the coating was flaking in the tank and cloging. I had them re-do the tank again, still no luck, still clogged things up. They offered to do it a third time but I refused, and with a little persistance, I had them buy a replacement tank for me.... So I had a bad experience with that procedure. Personally, I would not do that again UNLESS it was my only option. But I'm sure it does work in most cases. Just my story and my thoughts.

Steve

[pint4]

Thanks for the feedback and advice. I can't seem to see anything loose in the tank. Would the flakes be large enough to see if they are large enough to clog up the fuel pick-up line? I have contemplated having them remove the pick up line and then remove the filter. I assume there is a screen on the end of the pick up tube in the tank. Buying a new tank for a 1933 Buick will be a challenge so I think I am stuck with figuring out how to fix this tank. Is the tank liner they coated it with removable?

[SMohr]

Hi Pint4-

Not sure about your pick-up tube, but the VW did not have a screen on it, I was catching the dirt/flakes in a clear fuel filter just before the carb. So much stuff, enough to clog up one of filters. I was even lucky enough to catch some bigger flakes by disconnecting the gas line to the carb before the filter and just have the gas pump into a glass jar. And those flakes were actually the same color as the sealer that was used. I was told that they would lightly blast the tank again to get any loose stuff out of there and re-seal.

[Mark Shaw]

None of my Buicks have a screen inside the tank. The pick up line should be a "dip tube" with the end just off the bottom of the tank to help eliminate any sediments from being pulled into the fuel line. If they did not remove the dip tube before they coated the tank, they probably coated the inside diameter of the tubing. This may not restrict the flow enough at idle, but upon accelleration, it may starve the fuel pump.

Mark Shaw

[Guest Fr Mike]

I had a similar problem with my '31 Buick. Drained and dropped the tank and took it to a shop where a restorer acquaintance had been taking all his tanks for coating. After reinstalling the tank and a fuel line filter, the filter filled up with rust repeatedly. Examination revealed that the tank was still rusty and incompoletely coated. The place refused to reimburse me until my lawyer wrote him a letter. The restorer acquaintance also quit using that shop. I took it to another, long established shop which cleaned the tank out and double coated the inside. I discovered, however, that, in the process, they sealed the tank vent!.... so that the car wouldn't run with the gas cap screwed on normally. Meanwhile, it was also necessary to install a new gas line, as the inside diameter had been so reduced by deposits over the years that the pump couldn't keep the carburetor from starving. After working through these problems, the old beauty runs like a new one and is a joy to drive!

The moral of the story seems to be---Choose a tank-lining shop VERY carefully and watch over your tank like a doting mother over a child!

[mrpushbutton]

Fr Mike--your last sentence could be expanded to include any out-sourced service, engine rebuilding, trans, body and paint, etc.

[Guest Fr Mike]

Absolutely!

[Guest]

I find it interesting that everyone wants to clean their tank and have it coated. I drive my car daily, about a thousand miles a month, and have done since 1959. It was bought new by my grandfather who put 99,000 miles on it in 29 years. I have not had a problem with rust ever. I always run the tank (10 gallons)down to the point where I put 9 gallons in it. I have driven from northern Canada in the winter to Arizona in he summer. Twice in Manitoba I had to use gas line antifreeze in the gas tank but otherwise it has never had anything but regular gas in it. When I hear about the troubles people have with coatings I wonder if it is necessary at all. I understand the new fuels with ethanol are even harder on the coatings???

Just some musings from Canuck.

[mrpushbutton]

Tinindian--It could be a function of climate where you live, but believe me, it does happen. I worked for 12-1/2 year for a big time collector (150 cars) taking care of his cars, and 150 cars=150 gas tanks (and carburetors, and fuel pumps and batteries,and..and.....and.....) and we had to devote some time and money to a percentage of those cars for gas tank trouble. The biggest problem was flaky shale rust in the bottom of the tank, clogging the intake. In the old days we used to send them out to the chem-strip place, they would come back perfectly clean, but somewhat porous. We would slosh a sealant we bought from Bill Hirsch, a clear goo that coated the entire surface of the tank. That worked great initally, but in some cases we had trouble as gasoline formulas changed. The new type gas started eating the lining, pulling it off of the tank walls. We switched over to the renu process over 10 years ago, and it's been clear sailing since. It would be interesting if you ever had to, to drop your tank and get a good look inside. That day may come, but leave it alone till then.

[RocketDude]

Just a thought, but I'm wondering if the difference might be because Tinindian's car was never parked for an extended period of time. It sounds like Tinindian's car has been regularly driven since new, whereas mine was parked for almost 30 years, with gas in the tank, which was allowed to turn to varnish and rust.

Perhaps if mine would have been driven more frequently, and had the gas replaced with fresh gas as needed, it would be in great shape, also.

I don't have any idea. Anyone else have an old car that was driven regularly since new, that might have input on my theory?

[mrpushbutton]

Rocketdude--good idea! I think that is as plausible as anything. The old tanks are mild steel, uncoated or plated, and the oppertunity to rust is there! Tinindian and his ancestors driving that car all of the time, keeping gas in the tank and using that gas then replacing it could explain a lot.