bobs1916 Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 I am restoring a 1916 tourer. It was made in June 1916. The dash has the 6 button switch for what ???? The manual I have Aug 1916 does not show its use. When was it discontinued and what was its purpose?? Is a wiring diagram available? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack27 Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 The 6 button switch is the light switch. Push a button in at the top and the light comes on.Push the bottom button in and the light goes off. One of the set of buttons is for the bright lights, one for the dimmers and one for the instrument light. This switch was used only on 1915 and 1916 DB cars. Jack Carpenter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted July 10, 2006 Author Share Posted July 10, 2006 thanks Jack Is there a diagram for rewiring it?????????????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_RAH Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Bob, As Jack says the upper buttons are for 'ON' and the lower buttons are for 'OFF'. The left set are for 'Low beam' headlights (through a resistor). The right set are for High beam headlights. (direct). The center set are for dash and tail light. On the obverse side you should find a cross strap (bussbar) on the lower three contacts with a wire attached to the ammeter. This provides power to the three switches. There should be a rather large wire wound resistor fastened to the top outside set of terminals. The headlight wire fastens to the leftmost contact where that resistor is fastened and will disappear into that loom on the drivers side of the cowl. The top center contact will have two wires. One will go over to the dash light and the other will disappear along with the headlight wire into the loom headed for the taillight. Interestingly the headlight wire loom will continue under the steering box and head forward to the left front corner where they appeared to pull the wire out of a notch and splice and tape a wire going up under the fender to the left headlight. The loom and wire continues under the radiator (two cable clamps are fastened under the rad bolts) to the right headlight. As for the taillight wire, it exits the loom just below the cowl through a similar notch and heads back along with the fuel and air pressure lines to the rear.I hope this helps.Sorry I should mention that these early cars did NOT use the 'armored' cable. It was what is referred to as Telephone Switchboard wire. It is a rather greenish rubber and cloth covered wire.Rodger "Dodger" Hartley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack27 Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 It just occured to me that if your car was made in June 1916 it would NOT have had a 6 button light switch. It would have had a Briggs and Stratton Switch which has the ignition and light switch integral in one unit. Jack Carpenter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 Jack serial number in the 72000 range ( I forget the exact #) which according to records should be about june or july 1916 IT certainly has the 6 button switch and remnants of a pretty complex wiring harness still affixed to it . It would be a lot easier to use the Briggs switch with the light switch built in . What would you do??? Dash has the proper cut outs for the 6 gang and is original I believe to this car. Thanks guys for the input Greatly appreciate it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack27 Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 All I can conclude is that the car had the original dashboard replaced with one from a '15.Unless you are a purist I would leave the dash you have in the car. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 Jack you got me thinking so I checked and what I have is a 6 TERMINAL switch with only 3 buttons Does that make more sense now??? I assume that the wiring will be as Roger has already commented on . Is that configuration correct for June 1916??? Thanks and sorry for my confusion in looking at the dash from the back bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 Jack one other point Assuming the switch is right do you have any leads on the correst ignition switch to use with this set up???? The one I got is a very very clean IGN with key but it also has the light /dim circuit built in to it.Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Can you post a picture of the dash panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack27 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 A picture of the from the drivers seat switch you have would be very helpful. A 3 button switch does not ring any bells with em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted July 14, 2006 Author Share Posted July 14, 2006 I will post picture next week and will await your comments Thanks to allbob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted July 18, 2006 Author Share Posted July 18, 2006 hello guys I have posted pictures of dash at www.geocities.com/bob487thbg/db1.jpg other pictures are db2 db3 db4 db5 db6 These others will show project to date . The 1916 will be restored as a US Army Dodge of the era .I took the liberty to paint it in ww1 olive drab as would have been the case in late 1917-1918 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Jack will give you the final word on this, but I don't think this 3 button switch is DB. The big round hole with 1 screw hole at top and 3 at bottom is where the light/ignition switch goes. The small slot is for the fuel enrichener {choke}, looks like a hack saw blade with big teeth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted July 18, 2006 Author Share Posted July 18, 2006 ThanksI can easily make that switch "go away" and wire lights through the light /ign switch. Does the dash light come on when the headlights are turned on??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack27 Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Bob: Tried to access your pictures two separate times and could not get them to come up on the screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted July 19, 2006 Author Share Posted July 19, 2006 jack I just clicked on the link and came right up I can try to email them to you I am at bob487thbg@aol.com send me your email and I will send them to youbob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack27 Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 It is a strange dashboard. The 3 button switch is certainly not Dodge-it has been an add-on.The oil gauge bezel is off a car later than '16-the bezel should be like the oil gauge bezel. The oil gauge meter itself is off a car later than '16.The ammeter is off a car later than '16. The hole in the dash left of the steering column should not be there. The speedometer does not look correct for a Johns Manville speecometer.The bezel looks like it is off a VanSicklen. The bracket that holds the steering coolumn to the dash is later than '16. The dash looks like it was drilled for a Briggs and Stratton ignition switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 jackThanks a lot I am NOT going to use that dash panel. I have a second one that I got from a guy with a 1917 that does NOT have any of the extra holes > Should the ammeter he affixed with a wooden mounting block fo the back? ie NO SCREWHOLES IN DASH . Thats what he provided me with I will need to use that steering column mount as I have no other one. Obvously the dash had been altered over the years and I can eliminate the "extras" thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack27 Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Bob: The ammeter is held from the black witha wood block. The steering column brcket is minor point but I wanted to advise you of the non original '16 features. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_RAH Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 Shesh You Guys! First, Bob I do not recall you mentioning your cars specific serial number only others trying to reconcile your 'June '16' date. This was a very transitional period and specific serial numbers are required for accurate info. Regarding the ammeter, the switch from flange mount to rear wooden bracket occurred at 37445/39509 (Oct '15). The wooden bracket was replaced by the steel retainer at 495684 (Jun '20). Regarding your posted dash picture, that 3 button switch does not belong and the switch would be a Briggs & Stratton in that round hole above. The info. regarding the steering column bracket is also correct in that yours would be a cast unit rather than stamped as shown.Regarding the speedometer, the silver faced JM which appears on your dash was introduced at 59150/63243 (Feb '15) and was replaced by the Van Sicklin at 80676/88275 (July '16). That was replaced by a later JM at 124353/143000(Feb '17). And the black face JM flush mount with no surround was introduced at 158616/169913 (May '17). And, Yes the oil pressure gauge is from a later car in that the one for '16 would have a more pronounced arrow hand and brass lettering rather than the white lettering on that one. I hope this helps. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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