joerein Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 I would like to communicate with other members regarding finding a solution to overheating problems on early '20's cars. In my situation a flow test of the radiator checked superb and waterpump impeller and function appear to be good. I am wondering if the problem could be caused by blocked passages in the head or block and if someone has used a specific product to open the passages. Also, is a reverse flushing of the block and head ever been advocated as a remedy for overheating. If you have any suggestions that I can try to solve this serious problem I will really appreciate hearing from you. Thank you. Joe Rein 3980 Hillwood Circle, Tucson, Az 85750 (520) 886-7098 jahmrein@cs.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpushbutton Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 Has your engine ever been rebuilt? if so, when? I have used the Borden's #7 two part powder (acid/neutralizer) to good effect, but it never really cured a cronic overheater with a good radiator core. The best way is rebuild the engine and get ALL of the rust out of the block and heads. Here is what I posted over on the Chrysler Airflow page:After dissasembly, send the block,head,and pans to a chemical stripping place that uses the akline solution + electrical current process, like Chem-strip. Get that block SURGICALLY clean--this process does this. It removes any rust, especially from cooling passenges. The minute you get the block back from them mount it on an engine stand, final degrease everthing, blowing out all oil passenges. Get some two part Epoxy primer like DP-90 and with a chip brush paint all of the rough (non machined flat)surfaces, inside and out. make sure to paint the inside of the cooling passenges. If you can't get to much of the back side of the cylinders (kinda hard to through the little freeze plug holes), leave a small pool of primer in the bottom of the cooling passenges, place tape over where the water distribution plate and freeze plugs go and tumble-turn the block on the stand to distribute the primer. If you have a cherry picker or chain fall it helps to lift the block by each end after the horizontal tumble. I can't stress enough how important the Chem-strip is: pre-war engines were run on water and alcohol, or just water, depending on local climate, and that has left scale rust all thru the cooling passenges, which resist the transfer of heat. I have rebuilt engines that had chronic overheating trouble, didn't like to cool in stop-and-go traffic, can't handle a parade, and really hated going from freeway speeds to surface street speeds. after "the treatment" they started cold, came up to the temp maintained by the thermostat, and stayed there, no matter what. No more overheating, no more burping up coolant. Just pleasurable driving, regardless of conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joerein Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 Thank you for your reply to my question about how to coorect an overheating problem on my '21 Nash. The car has never needed an engine teardown and ovrthaul. It dtill does not burn any oil, and the compression is good. I replaced the head gasket and ground the valves about five years ago. Recently installed a rebuilt carb. and the engine runs perfectly but I need to see of I can get a lower rpm on the idle adjustment. If I try to get it lower than 1050 the engine dies. Maybe that is ok for idle rpm. I do noy know what is specified? Have you ever tried a reverse flush of the engine to correct an overheating problem? I hate to think about a complete engine teardown. Thanks again for your reply Joe Rein Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpushbutton Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 well, as I stated above, if there is heavy rust lining the insides of the cooling passenges, I don't know of any "restoration in a can" that is capible of knocking out 85 years worth of rust. You can certainly try--that's cheap and easy. can you remove a water distribution plate (don't know if that engine has those) and see what shape your cooling passenges are in. Get a good look inside, and if there s shale-rust so thick you can sink a screwdriver tip into it, that's your problem, and no cure-in-a-can will fix that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 I had a similar problem with my 29 Buick. It was simply a retarded spark.Mark ShawVancouver, WA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now