Beth E. Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 I was wondering how I can dissolve the (50+ year) old gasoline (which now is the consistency of taffy, or maybe tar) from the tank of my 1922 Chevy. I've removed the tank from the car and drained all the gunk I could get out of there. What's left is going to have to be dissolved somehow I think.I wonder if anyone could recommend a good solvent for this. Failing that, if anyone knows of a good professional source to whom I could send my tank to get it cleaned out and ready to receive the fresh gas.I'm really not planning on a full restoration of my car so if there's a way to just get the old gas out without having to pay for a complete restoration of the tank, that is my preference.Any help anyone could give will really be appreciated.Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlh61olds Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 Beth, take the old tank to the nearest radiator shop. Most of those guys will "boil" the tank out and will fix any leaks. They will also treat the inside of the tank to prevent further corrosion. Most shops are very reasonable, so shop around if you think the price is too high. My '28 Olds was $50. If the tank is that bad you need to clean the fuel lines and the carburetor before you even think of starting the engine. Don't forget the fuel pump.Good luck, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 I don't know where I heard of it, but I used one full container of Drano drain cleaner dissolved in a bucket of hot water with about two cups of pea gravel to clean my 29 Buick tank over ten years ago & still have no leaks or problems. Just add the stuff, seal it up and do the twist with it for about ten minutes to work the gravel over all the inside surfaces. Rinse it several times and dry it out with a hair dryer running on warm for about one hour. Then use a tank coating (find them advertized in Hemmings and other trade magazines)to finish the job.Mark ShawVancouver, WA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth E. Posted February 21, 2006 Author Share Posted February 21, 2006 Thanks for the advice. Someone told me about a radiator shop about an hour from here that when I called said "it won't be less than $200.00!" I guess based on your advice I can shop that price and hopefully get a better deal.Thanks for your help. Beth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Don't know what part of the country you're situated in, but try to find the oldest "Mom'n'Pop" radiator shop you can, and see what they say...Due to increasing issues with environmental regs and insurance issues, a lot of radiator shops around me have shut down their "hot-tanks" and no longer "boil-out" gas tanks.If you go the Draino and gravel route that Mark suggested, were protective clothing and heavy rubber gloves...Draino is very caustic and can cause nasty chemical burns to any flesh. Also, there is the issue of what to do with the tank full of "draino + crud" once you're done.$200 is about one-half the cost of a Gastank-Renu cleaning/sealing/coating that is guaranteed for as long as you own the car... you chould be able to get it cleaned-out for less than that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friartuck Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Beth E.Once you've cleaned out the tank using either the radiator shop boil out or the Draino method, you should seal the tank from the inside using a product like the one from POR: http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/FUELSYSTEMRESTORATION/USSTANDARDFUELTANKSEALER/tabid/112/Default.aspxThe tank must be bone dry before coating. For your Chevy tank, one quart is more than enough. Pour the entire quart into the tank and rotate and flip the tank on all six sides to cover (coat) the entire inside with the product. Pour out the remaining back into the can. Takes about 3 days to fully dry.Also suggest you complete your profile a little more like adding your e-mail address. Folks here on the forum do send messages directly with attachments like pictures.Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 I have found a sure fire way to clean out a rusted/gummed up fuel tank for practically nothing. Wash out the tank with a strong detergent and water to remove the gas. Then put in more detergent and a hand full or two of sand and gravel (and a few rocks if you desire) and a few gallons of water. Use your pressure washer to "Sand Blast" the interior. Wash out several times and drain through the fuel gauge hole. (That is the part that takes the longest.) Then install a few pints of dry gas and swish around and drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wldavis Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Beth,DeSoto Frank is correct. A few months ago, the gas tank in my son's'65 Ford Galaxie had a rust spot that was leaking and needed repair.We finally found a "Mom & Pop"-type radiator shop about forty milesaway, in another state, that would do the repair. The repair costus $45.00. You will have to so some searching (and I don't mean onthe internet) to locate a shop that will do the repair at a fair price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_MrEarl Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Wash out several times and drain through the fuel gauge hole. (That is the part that takes the longest.) </div></div>I have to disagree with you there. What took me the longest was gettin that last &^($%)#*(%&%(&(!@#$ rock outa there!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 I used about six-feet of log chain in mine...tied a "safety wire" to it to make sure I could get it back out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 McEarl, Think of that last &^($%)#*(%&%(&(!@#$ rock as a memento of a really good idea with a slight flaw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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