'53 Windsor Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 Hey everyone, I have a 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe with a straight-six flathead in it. I'm replacing the rear main bearing seal, but not very easily. I loosened all the main bearings (4), and I still can't get the crankshaft to drop down a little bit. I need the crankshaft down so that I can get the top half of the seal out. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.-Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 Is it a rope seal? They make a seal tool, looks like a cork screw with a handle on it, McMaster-Carr has them. Or turn crank to rotate the seal out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'53 Windsor Posted May 8, 2005 Author Share Posted May 8, 2005 No, it's not a rope seal, it's rubber. I could probably get it out, but I'm worried about getting the new one in. If I could just drop the crank a quarter inch...Thanks-Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles2 Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 If your car has a clutch, then have someone push down on the clutch pedal while you pull down on the rear of the crankshaft. There is often enough play in the transmission input shaft to let the crank drop down a bit. You'll also want to have someone push in on the clutch when you bolt it back together. If you have a fluid coupling setup then you are SOL; you will have to unhook the coupling from the crankshaft which, as I recall, is a fair amount of work. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'53 Windsor Posted May 10, 2005 Author Share Posted May 10, 2005 Hi, My car does have a clutch and a torque converter. I tried pushing in the clutch, but it didn't work. When you say "unhook the fluid coupling," do you mean take it out of the car, or just unbolt it from the crankshaft? Also, the eight lugs on the torque converter have little groves in them. Does this mean they are left hand thread? Thanks for all the help.-Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles2 Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 I was thinking of just unbolting the converter from the crankshaft. The rear of the crank is being held in place by the connection to the transmission so you need to release this connection to gain slack to lower the crank; that's what I had in mind with the clutch maneuver. Is the front of the crank still held in place by the front cover? As to whether the studs are RH or LH, I don't know; I suspect they are RH but it's easy to find out. There comes a point where it is easier to just remove the engine for a repair than to try to do a fix with the engine in place. Having the engine out also gives you the opportunity to inspect, clean and repair stuff that is otherwise inaccessable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'53 Windsor Posted May 13, 2005 Author Share Posted May 13, 2005 Thanks guys.I got a Sneaky Pete, but it didn't help much. The way my seal is built I couldn'tscrew into it, because it has a metal retainer inside it. But I finally got it out, and got the new one in with no problem. This helped my oil leak, but I found that my engine fed torque converter is leaking also. But that's a story for another day.Thanks again.-Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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