Stalls While Driving

[redhot91]

Any ideas? My Reatta is sick. First she's hard to start with a rough idle, and black smoke on startup....then it started stalled while at a red lights (low RPM) now it is stalling while I am driving!!!

Anyone know what is going on or can give me some idea as to what could possibly be wrong? I have replaced hoses, pcv valve, cleaned IAC, new fuel filter and plugs. What else should I do? Help save my Reatta!!

Thanks,

Joe

1991 Red coupe...161,000 daily driver

[padgett]

Rough starting/idle/black smoke means it is running waaay too rich. Have seen that happen if the coolant temp sensor is registering sub zero when temp is in 70s. Time for a scan tool.

If you really want to maintain these cars, a factory service manual and a period scan tool are "must haves" and a fuel rail pressure guage is strongly suggested.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

As Padgett said, get a service manual. The factory one is available for free at Reatta.net

Then you can pull the engine codes if any (does it have a check engine/service engine soon light?)

Sounds like it might be a bad coil pack.

[padgett]

Smoke and hard starting sounds more like flooding than ignition (never say never). MPG is probably waaay down. If coolant sensor is just reading low there will not be any codes, why you need a scan tool. MAT (manifold air temperature sensor) in air cleaner box might be able to cause same thing. Check both.

Reattas have a built in scan tool (see diagnostics for information on how to use (89 can use 88 method or is in 89 service manual).

For 91 you want to check ED04 and ED23 (can check all but check those two first. Readings will be in centigrade.

[redhot91]

I ran the on board scan the other day. The coolant temp was reading (ED04) 82C. (=181.4 F) That was after I let it warm up (ran it to the store and back) and the engine running. Is that low? I'm not sure how to interpret all of those codes. I did download the service manual...(bless that wonderful person that posted it on the site!!!) It gave me some ideas as to where to start and most of which I have checked or replaced. How do you test the fuel pressure? I had our '00 Explorer's tested at AutoZone. I can't do the Reatta, they said it has to be a '95 or newer vehicle for their equipment. Is there any other way? A special gauge? $$$?!

There is no SES light on. The only trouble code I have is B335-history...which I think is the air bag, right?

Here's my other readings, because I am hoping someone can understand these better than I can....

(ED01)throttle position sensor: 36 volts

(ED04)coolant temperature: 82C

(ED06)injector pulse width: 3.5 to 11.8 ms

(ED07)oxygen sensor voltage: 45 to 65 volts (idle)

(ED08)spark advance: 24 degrees

(ED10)battery voltage: 13.8 volts

(ED11)engine rpm: 865 rpm (idle)

(ED12)vehicle speed sensor: 0 MPH

(ED16)spark retard: 0 degrees

(ED17)knock signal: 9999 counts(***I thought this was odd, so I read this three different times)

(ED18)oxygen sensor cross counts : 0 counts

(ED19)fuel integrator: 128 counts

(ED20)block learn multiplier: 133 counts

(ED21)air flow: 4.9 - 5.6 grams/sec

(ED22)idle air control position: 40

(ED23)manifold air temperature: 45C

(ED98) Ignigtion cycle counter: 89

(ED99) MEM CAL number: 1484 (???)

Please let me know if something seems off to you. I have been digging through the manual to interpret these codes...but the manual seems to be written for someone who has a little more equipment and knowledge about cars. I'm learning!!

Thanks again,

Joe

[padgett]

Fuel pressure is measured with a guage on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Dunno what AZ was talking about, '95 is when OBDII came out. I have an Actron purchased on sale from Sears.

Everything looks pretty normal except the idle is high (should be 625-650 rpm warmed up which it is) Coolant temp would be proper for a 180F thermostat (really need to read after sitting overnight - engine does not need to be running, just the key on). Was the manifold passage where the IAC mounts cleaned as well ? It can get gummed up.

Cross counts of zero is not good unless engine just started after sitting for a while but the O2 ranging (is in mv) sounds right. CC should increase when driving but would expect 2-6 at idle.

Knock signal that high is odd but need to check immediately after starting. Keep in mind that other mechanical noise may be interpreted as knock. Can hit the plenium with a hammer or wrench and it will go up. I generally ignore the count if steady while driving, expect to see some on transients such as starting from a light.

ED99 is the numberical PROM ID that identifies which program is in your car.

[2seater]

Is the TPS reading 36,.36 or maybe 3.6? With the key on, no need to start the car, enter the diagnostics again and watch the TPS reading, ED01, as you slowly press the throttle to the floor. It should increase relatively smoothly to over 4.0 volts with the pedal to the floor and return to around .4 volts in the idle position. All the other readings look pretty normal. To get the O2 sensor warmed up a little better, bring then idle up to 1500 rpm or so and hold it for a little while. The O2 sensor should start showing cross counts after it gets hot enough. It's not unusual for it to get sluggish or stop during an extended idle.