1956 Buick Special

[xschx]

Anyone know of anywhere in Connecticut of anyone who rebuilds motors for these? I would do it myself to save money but i don't have a garage except one of those cover-it ones it sits in. I also need a replacement gas tank or to have mine cleaned out of all the rust. I tried but the deposits seem to just keep coming out. Also could use a new radiator if anyone can help me out with that. I've had this car a few years and would like to finally get it on the road or sell it so it doesn't rot.

[JohnD1956]

Coming from Albany NY I can't help ypu woth local recommendations, but I definitley recommend the gas tank renu system for your car. I had mine done in albany two years ago and they did a fantastic job. The tank was opened at the top to be cleaned and visually inspected. I also had a big dent in my tank which they pressed out so it looked like new. Then the tank was welded back together, and coated inside and outside with a coating impervious to gas. It worked out beautiful.

Meanwhile what makes you want to rebuild the engine?

JD

[xschx]

sorry it took so long to reply. i didn't know someone replied. I need to rebuild the motor as it leaks oil pretty bad. plus i was told when i bought it that it ran fine as a driver and it broke down 1/2 way home. i believe it sat and sucked all the rust deposits into the motor. I am either looking to rebuild or replace it. Do you know what motors are easily put into this car with little or no modification? i had bought a 71 gs motor a while back complete with transmission to put into it but lack of funding (and garage to work in) to adapt it to the car has put a stop on that idea. I just want to drive the thing as soon and cheap as possibly can.

[Guest imported_NikeAjax]

What are your symptoms of it not running; it could be something easily fixed! The Buick 322 is one of the best engines ever made, so don?t put something else in like a Chevy: YUCK! Check to make sure where your oil leak is coming from, this could be, again, something simple. Look at your valve covers and look around your oil filter area; these will cause your car to leak like a sieve, but you can fix them pretty quick. You may want to pull the top of your carburetor and see what kinda schmoots you get out of it, then run a temporary fuel line to a gas can and see if that helps at all.

Let me know if you need more advice, I have a ?56 Century and know these cars VERY well!

Jaybird

[xschx]

no i own buicks because they are my favorite car and i wouldn't put any other motor in but another buick. i think it is the valve covers but also might be other areas. i am almost thinking i remember it coming from the oil pan as well. it leaks pretty bad. i also think the tranny leaks as well as i have gotten puddles of fluid. i haven't started the car in a while. something is up with the starter system as well. maybe hitting dead spots. i wired it for push button and i can try starting it for a while with just "clicks" before it actually tries to turn over. the car most likely is over 200k for mileage as it was a daily driver until the guy finally traded it in at a dealership where i got it from. some things will need replacing. i will mess around with it this weekend and most likely will have questions. i do all repairs myself but learning is usually on an as needed basis. thanks

[JohnD1956]

I agree with Jaybird. My car is pushing 129K and runs like glass at this point.

Because your car has sat for a while, you can be guaranteed the valve cover gaskets are dried out and cracked. Originals are cork but Neoprene are available and may be at your local NAPA store?

Also the gasket on the oil filter is probably leaking too. This will cause a dribble that looks like a rear main seal is shot But until you replace this gasket, don't dive in there just yet.

I can guarantee that the tranny is leaking BUT consider this. If I don't run mine over the winter it will leak two quarts of fluid. Two quarts on the floor of the garage looks like someone parked the Exxon Valdez in my garage. Still, If I fill it and begin driving it the seals will seal up again and I can get a whole driving season here (3 months) with maybe one more quart. You should really try to get her running and drive it or idle it regularily for one year before investing in a tranny job.

Also go for replacement plugs, points and condensor, plus a new distributor cap and rotor. All of this is going to be less than a hundred dollars and you can't begin modifications for another motor for less than that. If I just idle my car without getting it on the highway to really warm it up I will have a plug or two get carbon on it and they will foul out. Just drive it a few miles when it's warm, and things clear up.

As for replacement engines, I don't think anything is easy, at least not anything you really want in there. I think the 53,4 and 55 are bolt in's, but the 56 is more powerful. The 57 and 8 are 364 cubes. I believe they bolt up to the tranny but not the motor mounts. The 59 - 66 will be the 401's. Up to this point they all look similar being the "nailhead" design, but I don't think any are bolt in's. The 455 and its Turbo 400 mate will not hook up to the torque tube driveshaft and rear. While I understand all of these problems have been overcome by enterprising hot rodders, I do not think any of this would be any cheaper than firing up the 322.

Check that oil for evidence of gas too. Could be a bad fuel pump. They are available from several vendors. But I bet it dropped dead from points that closed on you after not being run for a long time.

One nice thing about the 322 is that the timing gears are all metal. this usually eliminates a timing problem from a worn chain. But I'd also check that the distributor actually rotates by observation with the cap off. You never know, depending on how long that chain sat without lubrication ....who knows?

Still all this is fixable while the engine is in the car. Save your dough!

JD

[jscheib]

Hello,

Sorry I did not see your original post before and note we are very close. I will ask if you are a BCA member, and are intresting in joining our local chapter. There are others that can help. If you read this, we are having a drive on Sunday to start the new year of driving. Our next meeting will be next Tuesday evening at Parson's Buick. I would be glad to take you there.

I may be able to offer some help, and you want to call me Wednesday afternoon or evening, or e-mail me during the day and give me your phone number. You can use the address, or this link - j.scheib@comcast.net

My number is 519-1911. I will be out most of the day Wednesday, but just leave a message as to when and where I can call you.

John Scheib

[heidigirl]

once you get the engine to turn over, a simple compression test will give you some idea of its condition.

[Guest imported_NikeAjax]

As for your tranny, try a tranny seal first, but it may be, and more likely than not, your torqueball seal, this is a days work to replace. You can tell if it's bad by seeing if it's leaking at the very back of the tranny where it meets the torque tube.

Yes, a compression test is a very good idea, but a vacuum guage will tell you even more. Do you have one of these? If you don't, get one first thing, and learn how to read one, it will tell you how in any shop manual. Apart from your ears, this is one of the most important diagnostic tools you can have.

John D is right about the filter; they're EVIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good luck,

Jaybird