Problem with Headlight Switch / Vent Wing Lock - 56 Buick

[bousdula]

I tried searching for the answers, but didn't come up with anything.

How do you remove the vent window lock knob, I need to replace one?

http://photobucket.com/albums/v720/bousdula/56%20BUICK/PARTS%20PICS/?action=view¤t=IMG_0004.jpg

The rod for the headlight switch just comes out when I pull the handle. I tried the button on the switch, but it didn't help. I also tried to remove the switch, but the access is very limited. Any advice on fixing it?

Thanks for the help, Danny

[JohnD1956]

Don't know about the vent lock but the headlight switch may be accessed by droping the fuse box. Just take precautions against shorts by disconnecting the battery.

Once accessed, look for the button with the little spring on the side of the switch. My guess is one of two things, the button is stuck down due to rust. Try some WD 40 and work it.

Or

you have the wrong knob and switch rod, and it won't go all the way through to lock under that button. This would be pretty rare I imagine.

JD

[heidigirl]

i ran this play many years ago. had to pull the vent window frame from the car, and then to a glass shop to have them remove the glass. if i recall correctly, the lock assembly is riveted to the frame. i paid $20.00 to have the glass removed and reinstalled.

[bousdula]

Ya, I had a feeling it was going to be difficult to replace it. i was hoping the knob would unscrew.

For the light switch, I was having trouble keeping the fuse panel down and pullung the light switch down/out. The wires are stiff, and i'm trying not to unplug anything.

Is it possible to remove the top panel of the dash, to get a better view of all the wiring? Iremoved the trim by the windsheild, removed the bolts, and also removed the scres underneath the top of the dash. It still seems like there is something holding it in place.

[Judd]

Danny

I had the top off my parts car dash no way to the light switch from there, speedo etc. in the way.

[JohnD1956]

If you want that dash top out, I think you pull towards the seat. There are tabs in the back of the top that fit into slots under the window. On my 56 Super I also had to remove the inside front window trim by the doors. This was held on by two tiny screws visible inside the door jamb. Once removed, along with the other visible screws you just easily twist it down around the sun visors. Of course you could take them out too but where does it end?

As to the light switch, do you have it loose from the dashboard? If so, you may not be able to pull it down below the dash but you should be able to work the connector off while it is hanging back there and then remove the switch. As long as you disconected the battery I wouldn't worry about pushing the fuse box out of the way. I do not think you can push it far enough to damage the old stiff wires.

JD

[bousdula]

i tried pulling the dash toward me, and it worked. the view from the top is good, nice access to all the wires. I also found that the po removed the light sockets for the turn signal indicators. ??? now to clean up the mess and get things workin

[JohnD1956]

Great. These cars are fun to work on. Especially when things go right.

[bousdula]

i wish i could start driving the car, but the transimission has a problem with fluid, it sure doesn't like to keep it inside.

I just havn't had a chance to wash under the car and where its hemorrhaging from. I hope it's simple, and not in need of a rebuild.

My exhaust sounds like it has a hole in it. I was told there is a 'doghnut' at the header flange. Is this correct, and where should i get it from?

[JohnD1956]

Donut holes are for Chevies. There are no gaskets inthe entire system, and this is according to the factory service manual. Each pipe and muffler end is supposed to have a ball and flange shape which allows for adjustments along the way. Essentially each pipe ends in a ball, and each new pipe has a flange.

Unfortunately this means either a hole in an exhaust pipe, or a broken heat riser valve.

The pipes on this thing are like spaghetti when going over the rear. Left and right sides have to be properly bent to go around the suspension and through the frame. However, just about any reputable exhaust shop can do these up.

As to the tranny leak, try idleing it and driving it for a while. chances are the seals will reseal when allowed to warm up to operating temp.

[bousdula]

I got a chance to put my car on a lift and look under it. Turns out that sound is from a gash in the exhaust just after the manifold. It should ba an easy fix.

About the transmission leak, i think you maybe right about the seals being dry. It's not leaking as bad, just dripping now. My mechanic friend said it may be "the front main seal"?

I was able to remove the headlight switch from the top of the dash. After i disassembled it, i found that the 'plastic slider' inside had been broken. I used 2-part epoxy to put the five pieces together, hopefully it will stay in one piece.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v720/bousdula/56%20BUICK/?action=view&current=CIMG9839.jpg

I'm exited, slowly making progress. I ordered a carb kit, wires, and tune-up parts for the car today. Thanks for all your help/knowledge, I'll keep you all informed

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

bousdula,

This is an interesting and informative thread so far. Thanks for sharing all the little tricks you're learning. That was a tedious little feat you achieved with that light switch. If it doesn't stay together let me know and I think I have one in a 56 pc I can try and pull IF you're in no hurry.

Hey, I visited your photobucket site. We'd love to follow your progress in the Me and My Buick forum.

Love them 56's. <span style="font-style: italic">BEST BUICK YET, Plenty of zooom at the top....</span>

[bousdula]

Thanks for the offer! I may have to take you up on it, I have a feeling it's going to come apart real fast.

I'll start keeping you guys updated in the Me and My Buick forum. Oh ya, the car may have some 'zoom' at the top (I Haven't driven it fast yet), but I think I've driven colf carts that take off faster!

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Oh ya, the car may have some 'zoom' at the top (I Haven't driven it fast yet), but I think I've driven colf carts that take off faster! </div></div>

If you think a 56 is slow on take off, you oughta try a 54. 'bout as fast as a turtle sprintin thru peanut butter.

I looked in the 56 and sorry, looks like it had a case of the same problem yours did...the know is gone from the switch.

[JohnD1956]

Very nice car, and great pictures. I think it is an option that the rear bumper has the cutouts for the exhaust tips and the "J" bars. Normally the Special wouldn't have that.

I would think that spring in the headlight switch is going to exert a lot of pressure on the part you glued together. I would be surprised if it holds together. Can you get a replacement switch? Sure beats pulling everything apart a second time to install the new one. Ken reeves at Wheatbelt auto ought to be able to hook you up with one. You can find his web site at the bottom of this page: http://www.classicbuicks.com/links.htm. Of course Mr. Earl already offered to help out too. Thats one of the great things about this forum.

Even though my car is a Super, I think your dash is so close to mine that I am sure the switch can come out from the bottom. I've had mine out more times than I want to know about and I always got it out the bottom.

That front main seal may take a while to come back. That is a bear of a job to replace. On these cars the entire rear axle has to be unhooked in order to get the drive shaft out of the rear of the tranny. I would honestly give that thing a summers worth of regular driving before committing to do that.

Keep us up to date on your efforts.

JD

[bousdula]

Thought it was a good idea to start posting the updates in the Me and My Buick forum.

http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=280488&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1