imported_petri Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Does anybody have an idea of what one of these Straight Eights weighs? I'm about to pull mine and have looked everywhere but can't seem to find a weight on the motor.thanksHoward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Figure around 900lbs for the motor, but also figure the length of the boom to reach over the bumper to reach the centerline of the motor for balance. See the attachment, the boom is just over 4 foot and it's just long enought to reach over the bumper on this 48 Packard 356ci. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_petri Posted November 4, 2004 Author Share Posted November 4, 2004 Thanks for the info I was guessing around 800 lb. I have made an engine stand out of 2x10's in the shape of a cradle with wheels. I'll set it down on this stand supported at the engine mounts and strip the engine down from there. The body is off the car so nothing is in the way. thanks Howard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Block Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 I lifted a 42 Packard Super-8, 9 bearing engine out of the bed of my truck and my 25 hp Kubota was straining, it is rated around 900 pounds. Several people have told me 900 pounds for 8 clyinder engines in the past., and i believe that is without the transmission.Joe <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 I have seen pictures of engine overhauls being done during the '30s and they were doing all the work with it still in car, with fenders, grille and radiator removed. Guess most poeple didn't have a way to lift the monsters out. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> And the pictures were made to show how it 'Should' be done. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 I think I read somewhere that the 900 engine and transmission together weighs 1100 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 And good luck getting those 47 or so 1/4" bolts out of the water jacket without breaking any of them off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Been there done that. I have stainless bolts in there now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy Berger Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Tom, are those stainless bolts grade 8 equivalent? I wonder if they tighten down with the same torque specs? Maybe review with the supplier of those bolts. It might be part of your anti-freeze problem.YFAM, Randy Berger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Randy,I think Resorter32 is talking about the water jacket cover bolts that are on the side of the engine. Is that correct Restorer32?Not sure what grade they were. I had to go to different hardware stores like ACE and Sears to find the size I needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 I was speaking of the water jacket on the side of the engine. Bolts are 1/4-28 I believe. Has to come off to clean out the engine and determine the condition of the water distribution baffle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Those are the ones I replaced with stainless. Not original but hopefully they won't break off when having to R&R it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 At least on '32 these were nickle plated. Polished stainless is a good replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 The originals on mine were painted green so not sure what material they where also the cover was painted green. When I had it off a few years back I got the cover, sparkplug wire tray and oil filter brackets chromed. Not original but it looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JT Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I have seen pictures of engine overhauls being done during the '30s and they were doing all the work with it still in car, with fenders, grille and radiator removed </div></div> Rick, I think it was common back then to do an in frame rebuild. They would even bore engines and redo rod journals in frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WCraigH Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have seen pictures of engine overhauls being done during the '30s and they were doing all the work with it still in car, with fenders, grille and radiator removed. Guess most poeple didn't have a way to lift the monsters out. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> And the pictures were made to show how it 'Should' be done. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> </div></div>That's the way the DIY "Classic Car Restoration" (10 part shows) is doing it. Hmmm, easier to remove the "dog house" than it is to remove the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_petri Posted November 5, 2004 Author Share Posted November 5, 2004 The engine came out today without a problem. It's now resides safely in it's homemade engine stand. I had the water jacket cover off a couple of years ago and didn't break off any bolts. I like the idea of replacing them with stainless which I will do later. So far I have been able to get most buts and bolts off of this car without resorting to the die grinder or breaking them. Howard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JT Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's the way the DIY "Classic Car Restoration" (10 part shows) is doing it. Hmmm, easier to remove the "dog house" than it is to remove the engine? </div></div> On the 35-41 120's it's very easy to remove the front fenders/radiator as an assembly. You can probably have if off in about an hour. There is a bracket at the top of the radiator frame that you can hook a hoist to and pull the whole front end. With an electric wench it's an easy one man job to remove. And of course if you're going to pull the engine you have to pull the front end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JT Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Another one of front end install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy Berger Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 JT, first off, remember that I have a very active imaginationand my mind wanders off subject many times.With that in mind, just how good is this electric wench? Does she do things standard wenches cannot? And last, but most importantly, does she have a sister? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />YFAM, Randy Berger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Yep, It's not a bad idea to remove the fenders for any major engine work, makes it much easyer to get access to everything that needs disconnecting and reconnecting, plus you don't have to worry about putting dents in fenders and scratching paint. As long as you have someone that can help lift those heavy awkward fenders off and on. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 I did the 48 packard engine without removing the front clip, but there was very little clearance lifing the motor, and also had to drop the center link to clear the oil pan to put the motor back in, as the pan hit the center link before up could slide the motor into the transmission and that was using a levelier as seen in the picture. I also found it a pain putting the throw out bearing on the front of the tranni, holding it there on the fork and then pushing the motor into the transmission. So i had myself under the car and a friend up top guiding and steading the motor whil i did that and the pushing it up when it was lined up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JT Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Randy, you've never lived till you've had an electric wench! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />That'll teach me to use spell check <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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