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fuel pump...again


fatboy

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Well....we replaced the cam sensor...code went away..still not cranking. lol. So i should go with a GM fuel pump then? Thanks for all the help you people are giving me. I knew nothing about these cars...now im learning so much. Amazing what happens when u tear your car apart and look at it.

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I think you should spend a little more time on diagnosis.

The holy trinity of engines that run are:

(1) Spark - enough and at the right time

You can use a cheap spark plug tester to see if you are getting spark

through each of the three DIS coils. If the spark is not adequate and at the

right timing, the car won't run. A timing light will tell you where the spark is occuring.

(2) Fuel - at the right mixture with air

On these fuel injection systems, if you don't have adequate fuel pressure to

the injector rail, it won't start and run. This is usually easy to check. Also, you may need to see if the injectors are firing. 'Noid' lights make this easy to check. For the adventuresome, squirt a little starting fluid right into

the valve body while someone is turning the engine over. If it tries to start,

you are on the right track.

(3) Compression

This basically helps you rule out cams which are out of sync, burned valves,

etc. A car will run with no rings at all (Studebaker made some that way, unwittingly)sometimes, but it won't start if you don't get ANY compression coming up to the power stroke.

You can take out number one sparkplug, stick your finger in the hole, and rotate

the engine - by wrench or by starter - until you feel the pressure on your finger. Note on the timing mark/pulley where this happened (if it happened).

These are the basic systems. There are lots of little details that can go wrong

but if you have these three systems under control, you should have strong indications that it is going to start.

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Well i took it in a while ago cause it was overheating. Something to do with the computer and not makin the fans kick on. Well he also told me that my timing was off. Will that have any play in this at all? confused.gif

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Wait a minute; what is/are the complaints or issues we're discussing? I hear it won't crank. I hear about overheating. Two COMPLETELY different issues. As for timing; thats fixed; you have no control over timing like you used to with a distributor.How did he check timing? There are no marks.

The question I ask is; what's the problems being experienced?

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I think from what the machanic said, you need a new mechanic. It is difficult for a car that won't start to overheat. As for the fans not turning on, with the stock ECM you may have to get past 208F (98C) before even the low speed turns on (should turn on with a/c also).

Personally, would check the relay and fuse before looking at the ECM.

Follow the advice above. First separate into lack of fuel (pressure) or lack of spark (mechanical problems that will keep an engine from starting generally make lots of noise). Divide into components until you are pointing at just one, then replace.

There is nothing special about the Reatta engine, the same unit (and ECM) was used in hundreds of thousands of LeSabres, Park Avenues, Bonnevilles, Regal GSs, Delta 88s, Rivieras, and Floating Bulls.

"Cranks but does not start" should be simple to find, is even a six page troubleshooting process in section 6E2 of the service manual (available online).

What year is your Reatta (part of the dignostics available from the 88-89 touchscream is the ability to cycle the fans on and off manually).

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I don't think you really meant that the engine wouldn't 'crank'. I suspect you

meant it wouldn't 'start'.

That is why I posted the way I did.

You can ALWAYS check timing, except maybe on a diesel or a turbine. Maybe you can't adjust it on some models, but you can always check to see where it is occuring.

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I just look at ED08. It is possible to change the advance, either static or maps but to do so you have to reprogram the ECM. No big deal.

To change the timing mechanically, you would need an offset key for the balancer (hey: they have them for cams...) but doubt that you could change it much.

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You can ALWAYS check the timing, as I said before, if you really want to.

Buy, or make yourself, a piston stop. (Knock the porcelain out of a spark plug,

remove the tip, thread it, and screw in a bolt. Use a degree wheel on the crank, and advance the engine by hand until the piston is stopped. Note the degree wheel.

Back up by hand and note the reading on the degree wheel. Halfway between the two readings is top dead center (TDC). Index it.

Since these engines use DIS ignition, it doesn't make any difference if you are off 180 degrees. Same difference.

Then remove the piston stop, reinstall the spark plug and attach you timing light, turn the engine over with the starter (if you have spark at all,) and see where the system fires. When you are through, you can remove the degree wheel.

If you want to mark the pulley and install a pointer, you can do that too.

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I was just wondering if the timing being off would have anything to do with it not starting. If i let it sit for a day, then crank it up. It cranks, then shuts off. Then try and restarting it, and it wont do nothing but attempt to start.

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