Air Filter!

[RatReatta]

Change your air filter <span style="font-weight: bold">semi-</span> frequently!!!

Magically, no CEL!!

[padgett]

Ick. Considering that the air filter is rather small for the car, it is an important maintence item.

Know the K&N replacement is probably the best - http://www.knfilters.com/facts.htm#STOCK The 33-2022 is the correct one for my car but $33 for an air filter seems a bit pricey.

Presonally I do not care for Fram, any recommendations out there ?

[Guest spongebob]

i use frams and change them frequently there cheap enough. the k&n is a reusable item, dont forget the cost of a cleaner and oil when you look at the price of the k&n..it dosnt come with it..and dont believe a word about it (k&n) being a performance item..its a air cleaner, not a turbo charger..ive seen dyno charts before and after..nothin !!!

if i were a millionare lawyer, id take em to court over there advertising claims...

can anyone name a nascar or any other pro race team that uses them??? i cant.

[padgett]

Thing I do not like about Frams is the flash that typically reduces the effective outflow area from 32.5 (6.5" x 5") to 28 (6.25x4.5)in2. The one in the attachment is not the worst I have seen.

[Guest tempest68]

I use the K&Ns exclusively in all of our cars. Whether or not there is any "performance" increase is besides the point to me. I like that they are reusable with the cleaner/re-oiling kit (which cost $10.00). The kit will clean and reoil the filter multiple times. So when my filter gets dirty, I just clean and reoil it. I like not having to run to the parts store to buy another one. And I like not adding to the local landfill too.

[Shelby]

Did you discover this before or after all the repairs you have been doing ?

[Guest spongebob]

exactally tempest..as long as you dont fall for the "performance in a box" crap, the filter is a washable filter..and nothing more..

i had one of there salespeople(at the fontana superbike races) actually tell me that their oil filters will also add more horsepower..he said cleaner oil makes more horsepower...it was everything i could do to not kill him..

how can people or companys get away with that????

[RatReatta]

easiest solution. i took the airbox out and slapped on a cone filter. that plus throttle body cleaner and my car is running <span style="font-style: italic">so</span> much better its crazy. i cant wait till my next paycheck, im going to do all of the maintenence crap that needs to get done.

[RatReatta]

btw, does anyone know what the little sensor thing is supposed to do? (the one in the picture)

[padgett]

Doesn't "they are salesmen" say it all ? After all a politician is just a salesman with OPM and a lawyer a salesman with a degree ? After all anything they say isn't in the contract and ethics do not apply to mark^H^H^H^H customers.

Now if your life is below 4500 rpm then the stock air filter (sans flash but then I one of those oddballs who fils a new oil filter with oil before installation - something possible when you DIY) is fine. The limitations to the intake system is above there and *everything else in the intake has about the same limitation*.

[Guest wally888]

Being persistant I will tell this true story again, although it didn't receive much applause the 1st. time.

Way back when, 50's, Wynn's Oil, Bardall, all those additives were constantly making outrageous claims, I was at at my favorite fillin station (all were full service then) when the Wynn's man showed. He had a little manually operated friction machine. By filling w/ different additives, turning a small crank, it gave a readout of the amount of friction. After demonstrating Wynn's versus others (of course W's Oil produced less friction) the station owner took machine to back of store and put an untested solution in the little tank.

WALLA!. Zero friction. He later told us the solution and said he wouldn't have to go wee wee again for some time.

[Guest EDBS0]

Washable Air Filter Increases Acceleration and Horsepower, Saves Money

High Performance FRAM® AirHog? Air Filter Eats Air like a Pig

DANBURY, Conn., Feb. 5, 2004 ? Consumers who own sports cars, muscle cars, light trucks and SUVs can now save money while maintaining optimum engine performance by using a washable air filter that?s designed to last the life of their vehicle. FRAM®, a leader in filtration products for more than 70 years, has introduced a high performance air filter called FRAM® AirHog? ? a rugged washable and reusable air filter that helps improve engine airflow and increase vehicle horsepower.

Unlike disposable air filters made with paper, the FRAM AirHog filter media is comprised of a quadruple layer of precision weaved cotton gauze. Held in place with a screen-back mesh, this construction allows the engine to ?hog? all the available air. The increased airflow can result in greater horsepower and acceleration for better vehicle performance.

FRAM research confirmed that with the number of passenger cars, minivans, SUVs and light-duty trucks on the road today, the demand for this type of air filter is significant.

?Many people interviewed during our market research said they would consider purchasing the FRAM® AirHog? air filter due to its lifetime value and performance characteristics,? said Brian Holliday, Vice President of FRAM.

One FRAM AirHog air filter is equal to 20 disposable filters or 250,000 miles, which means costs savings of more than $200 in regularly scheduled filter changes over the life of a vehicle.

?It virtually won?t break down,? said Holliday. ?Motorists simply check it once a year and use the FRAM AirHog Air Filter Cleaner if it needs cleaning. Before re-installing the filter, FRAM AirHog Air Filter Oil should be applied to improve the efficient filtering of contaminants.?

Available on store shelves in January 2004, the FRAM AirHog air filter offers coverage for nearly 85 percent of today?s passenger cars and light-duty trucks. The AirHog filter, cleaner and oil can be found in most major automotive stores and discount retail chains like Advance, Auto Zone and Wal-Mart. Consumers interested in learning more should call 1(800) 862-7737 or log on to www.framairhog.com.

FRAM, the leading brand of automotive filters in North America, has been a symbol of quality and innovation since 1934. Today, as the Official Filter of the NHRA®, it markets a variety of automotive filtration products for the Original Equipment and aftermarket industries.

Headquartered in Danbury, Conn., FRAM is a unit of the Honeywell Consumer Products Group. The Honeywell Consumer Products Group manufactures and markets FRAM® oil, air, transmission and fuel filters; Prestone® antifreeze/coolant and car care products; Autolite® spark plugs and ignition wire sets; and Holts® car care products. Information about FRAM products is available on the Internet at www.fram.com.

[padgett]

a) anyone who would pay $10 for a regular air filter ("...20 disposable filters...which means...more than $200") probably deserves it.

have heard of MAF contamination occuring from oil on air filters, anyone have details ?

[Guest EDBS0]

I have had no problems after running many of thousands of miles on 89 SHO 96Riv and one year on both Reattas.

Have heard same thing and believe the problem is "over maintenance" of oiling the filter weekly.

[Guest]

Hey Ratreatta the sensor is an Intake Air Temperature sensor. The computer uses it and other sensor values to calculate fuel mixture. Overoiling is the problem, GM has just issued a bullitin warning against the use of any oiled air cleaner, but not before I spent 4 hours diagnosing a random missfire on a firebird. The problem with MAF faults is they seldom set a code, and in this case you can't see the oil on the MAF heaters, making it even harder to condemn. I know a lot of guys have never had a problem, but I've seen it personally and enough others have to warrant a warning from GM. anyways, with no significant gains why would you risk it.

[Shelby]

I have yet to see a dyno test if any of those after market filters make any difference.

[padgett]

Can think of some cars just a filter change would help but not many. The first "choke point" you run into on a Reatta is the neck where the air intake goes through the firewall and the air filter is not bad when you consider that (those going to a cone filter remove that first but then you need to go the whole cold air box route for maximum improvement).

Point I am trying to make is that you need to consider the entire powertrain (not just the engine) as a system and any change you make at one end needs to be balanced throughout to really feel a difference.

The problem is that to really wake up a "C" 3800, you need a number of things of which a bit more agressive cam is going to be the most difficult (both finding one and the cubic $$$ to acquire). Put them all together and 25-40 hp more is reasonable without NOS, boost, or radical PROM remapping.

For me one of the first changes would be to a better ignition system (Delco type II, Jacobs, or MSD) and RapidFire #14s. That can be done for under $100 if you get lucky at the recycling center.

Opening up the intake will help but best take care of the restriction at the exhaust manifold first (1/2 hour with a die grinder if the manifold is removed, anyone ever do it on the car ?).

Like I said a lot can be done but you must take a balanced approach. Last time I had the G-Tech out, my 88 did 0-60 in 8.40-8.42 seconds. Repeatable and near stock. Even had the Magnavox ignition and #3 Rapidfires then.

ps a) that looks like a Purolater air filter, is it ?

the sensor in the air box is a Inlet Air Temperature sensor. It is necessary to have the MAF interpreted properly.

[Guest EDBS0]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Last time I had the G-Tech out, my 88 did 0-60 in 8.40-8.42 seconds. Repeatable and near stock. </div></div>

And if I recall correctly you "threw" the cam magnet at that time too?

I do about 3 WOT runs a year on the Reatta. I did 3 a day every day with the SHO.

Sorry the Reatta just doesn't have the thrill factor I don't even think of trying.

[padgett]

Was around that time but suspect more age related than RPM then again was having some problem with shifting out of first at WOT at the time also. Hasn't repeated itself and I get on it occasionally.

I think the missing thrill factor is the <span style="font-weight: bold">way</span> a Reatta accellerates rather than how fast it is. Most "thrill" cars have a torque peak in the 3500-4500 rpm range so as the revs climb you feel like it is constantly going faster. The Reatta peaks at 2000 rpm (my distance cruise speed is between 2000 and 2100 rpm) and is almost flat out to 4000 rpm. This means that it doesn't have the same feeling of speed because accelleration is almost constant. B-52 takes off like that, nose doesn't lift, the whole plane just goes higher.

Another factor is the soft shifting that is a Buick special (they have never forgotten Dynaflow). Our 1990 Bonneville with the same "C" engine and 4T60 *feels* faster partly because you know when it shifts and partly because you hear more of the engine. My wife just commented on how fast the Bonneville seems but the fact is that the Reatta is about a 1/2 second faster 0-60. Wonder if I could put a Pontiac valve body in the Reatta...

[Guest EDBS0]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">partly because you hear more of the engine. </div></div>

Think you are on track with the aural aspects of the engine. The SHO with 4 valves per cylinder made the most audacious "Growl" when the secondary valves were fed air at around 3500 rpm. It just sounded as though it came to life with the induction "noise" going up dramatically. Particularly noticeable after the 9" K&N cone filter, Big kick in the torque curve there also! It really came to life! As I recall early Jags had great induction "music", something you should be familiar with.

A cone filter on my 89 only slightly increases induction noise.

Still ... 89 SHO stock 0-60 6.6 seconds AND after K&N cone filter, boring out of the MAF, Y pipe and cat back WOW, just WOW! Stock 220hp after ???

Yet another factor were the seats, they have air lumbar adjustments and most importantly air adjustable side bolsters. Throw a SHO around and it hugs you securely in the seat. A Reatta will let you slide around way too much.

[padgett]

Fiero seats have side bolsters, Reatta has left-over Riviera seats more suited to the bottoms of people who could afford Reattas.