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65 401 130,000!!!!!


Guest wildcat65401

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Guest wildcat65401

why does my 401 ping like hell & prevent me from accessing all that power. i'm talking about when i give it lots of gas.<BR> its in a 4dr wildcat. i've tried adding octane booster to high quality gas and also lead substistute ,this did'nt seem to help.<BR> also when i checked the plugs the middle ones [if you know what i mean] looked white . this is bad right. why did it happen? thanks for helping.<P>i've also got a 69 4dr hrd tp electra 225 limited.i'm working on that one .

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White centers on your spark plugs is great. It means a nice, clean burn, with no oil and no carbon. Besides incorrect timing, your distributor vacuum advance might not be working.<P>Pete Phillips<BR>BCA #7338

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Guest wildcat65401

Thank you all so much for your quick replys!!<BR> I've had the dist. rebuilt recently and that really helped however because of the bad timeing chain and 130,000 miles on her I'm starting to think i should just bite the bullet a get a good rebuild done on the engine. this is what my excellant mecanic[nathan-reincarnation] has been saying all along[ last2 years]. I'm sure you guys would probably agree, would you?<BR> if so is it really worth spending the $2,700 I've been quoted. the car otherwise is really clean[inside out top to bottom] and mostly stock. <BR> again thanks for your help.

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Talk to a good Buick mechanic about diagnosing the chain. If it is a steel chain, it may not need to be changed at 130K. If it is has the old nylon-coated sprocket sets, you are on borrowed time at 130K. <P>One easy way to get an idea of the chain's condition is to hook up a timing light, accelerate the engine to about 1500-2000 RPM and watch the timing mark on the harmonic balancer with the light. While holding the throttle at a steady RPM, and the timing mark is steady, the chain is probably in pretty good shape. If it dances around up and down on the balancer while at a steady RPM, the chain has a lot of 'slop' in it. <P>After diagnosing the timing chain, I would look for vacuum leaks, including that notorious metal plug under the intake manifold. Also, don't forget that the auto transmission module is vacuum-operated, and could also be a source of a vacuum leak. It is a cheap part and easy to replace. <P>If you have clean plugs, check the compression on all cylinders BEFORE committing to a rebuild. If you have good compression, clean plugs, and you are not using a lot of oil, there is no good reason to do a rebuild unless you are building a high-performance engine. <P>Next stop is the carb. If you have a Rochester 4GC and the linkage on the passenger side is bent, dirty, or blocked, the secondaries may not be opening. I'm not sure if the linkage can stop the secondaries on the Carter AFB from opening--some of the other members may be able to give you some good advice about diagnosing the Carter. This is where a GOOD carb shop is worth what you pay them for. They can flow-test your carb to make sure you are getting a full flow of air and a good fuel/air mix. <P>Finally, consider replacing your points with a Pertronix system. I haven't done mine yet, but I have a new Pertronix system sitting on my workbench just waiting for me to get to it. Lots of other Buick owners say they like the Pertronix system. <P>Good luck!<BR>Joe BCA#35662

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Guest wildcat65401
grin.gif" border="0 <BR>well thanks everyone, i got a friend to check everything out & he agreed so we pulled the front off it . <BR>and the timeing chain & fabulous nylon coated sprocket were in a sorry sorry state . we are just waiting on a new chain so by monday everything should be great. <BR> thanks for your advice & i'll let you know how it turns out!!
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Guest wildcat65401

hey everyone,<BR> well we changed the timing chain , everything went well. but, now the carb is acting up . i have described the problem under the topic" possible carb malfunction 65 401" if any one wants to check that out and advise me , that would be great.<BR> also you can answer at "help 65 401 carb"<BR> thanks a million everyone, take it easy.<BR> Paul. grin.gif" border="0

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Guest wildcat65401

hey everyone,<BR> well first of all thanks for your help.<P> my '65 wildcat now has; a new timing chain and gears, new waterpump , new valve springs, new lifters, one new push rod and all the gaskets you'd expect to go along with all this.<BR> the total cost of these parts was about $650.. or $850 if you include guinness!<BR> we probably should have replaced the cam as one lobe was worn but we will do that later.<BR> i drove the car to work today and its like a different car.<BR> the only remaining problem now is the idle speed in park v. drive. she idles much higher in park! but i think we will track this problem down tommorrow!<BR> thanks again everyone i really appreciate your help and i'll keep you updated.<BR> <BR> take it easy. paul. grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0wink.gif" border="0

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Guest wildcat65401

well michael,<BR> its kinda "one step foreward and two steps back" at the moment.<BR> i've got a vacum leak around the area of the left idle needle, i think i just need to tighten the whole thing down a little bit.<BR> also i noticed some gas leaking from somwhere behind the linkage . it seems to be coming from above where it meets the manifold. also the leak is intermittant.<BR> the whoosing from the carb is reduced now. though still there. probably the vacum leak!<BR> the engine runs so rough when cold its bothering me. my 69 430-4 is not like this.<BR> hopefully when the 401 is set up right with the problems eliminated this will change.<BR> i'll keep you up to date. <BR> thanks. paul. rolleyes.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0

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